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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3347

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
What threadlock for Drive Flange Bolts?
Hi guys,

Hoping to get my drive flanges changed tomorrow but haven't got any thread locker for the bolts.

I ordered all the bits, drive flanges, gaskets and bolts and they arrived promptly and more importantly the drive flanges are a nice tight fit on the half shafts.

The bolts supplied have a blue smear on them


Click image to enlarge


To my eye the blue just looks like blue goop which is for stainless fittings but could it be pre-threadlocked?

If not, which grade threadlock should I get? Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #387176 10th Jan 2015 8:07pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

blue smear = threadlock Thumbs Up
Post #387179 10th Jan 2015 8:12pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3347

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Smashing!

Will provide a write up tomorrow evening! Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #387193 10th Jan 2015 8:35pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5665

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
None. Don't like it on drive flange bolts and personally don't think it's needed.

Andy
Post #387198 10th Jan 2015 8:42pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17344

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I'm with Landy Andy on this. It's not needed and can lead to sheared bolts when the holes get plugged.
Post #387204 10th Jan 2015 9:02pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3347

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
I was recommended by a LR technician to use new bolts and lock tight.

As they are pre lock tighted to me it makes sense to keep it on? Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #387216 10th Jan 2015 9:35pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5665

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
There are many bolts and in shear force. So very unlikely to come out. Biggest problems I've had are with my newish vehicle where the bolts have snapped on extraction due to too much thread lock. Not good, but even worse road side, or when away.

Andy
Post #387218 10th Jan 2015 9:39pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
There is always for and against for thread lock

reason for it on flange is no other shakeproof method used no spring/star washer used

Too much is bad , snapping etc

just a dap , holds bolt plus seals threads stopping them rusting and seizing

most of what we would do on a defender a low to medium strength is ok

i got some stuff a while ago that is just pure evil if you ever want to undo anything again !! It just ripes the thread to pieces
Post #387230 10th Jan 2015 9:53pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3347

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Ok all valid points.

I'm now not planning on adding any thread lock, but there is already some blue goop on the end which is suspected to be thread lock - should I remove this (if so how?) or should I assemble with it and use lots of copper slip? Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #387235 10th Jan 2015 10:02pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
I would fit them as they are
Post #387237 10th Jan 2015 10:05pm
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DefenderJon



Member Since: 01 Dec 2012
Location: Sunny Ulster
Posts: 68

Northern Ireland 2000 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
I would fit them as they are supplied (ie. with the pre-applied thread lock). It's only medium strength anyway so shouldn't present a problem on removal. One thing I would say though, if you have an M10 tap, run it down the holes and give them a blow out with compressed air, to ensure that the bolts don't bottom out on old crud in the bottom of the holes.

Jon. Defender 90 TD5 CSW - The longer I own it, the newer it gets!!
Post #387249 10th Jan 2015 10:29pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5665

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Go with. I'm sure all will be ok. You can remove by running a thread die along bolt to remove.

And put them in by hand and ratchet if they have tread lock on, as with gun it can cause more problems with the thread look as generates heat.

Andy
Post #387254 10th Jan 2015 10:33pm
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Rickydodah



Member Since: 14 Jul 2014
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 1091

Loctite 243 is a medium strength thread locker which has the added benefit of working on passivated coatings, stainless steel and aluminium. I've yet to find any difficulty in disassembly as it seals the threads it tends to stop corrosion and in my view makes bolts easier to remove in most cases. Thumbs Up I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Post #387267 10th Jan 2015 10:58pm
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Philslandy



Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Eifel
Posts: 156

Germany 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
IT`s not a big deal,
you can first Mount the screws without threadlock, drive for a certain time and see if they get loose.
i yes, than with treadlock Wink

Normaly when the right torque (NM) is used, in this case 65-70, the screws shouldn`t make Trouble.
Post #387351 11th Jan 2015 10:25am
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