 | Home > In Car Electronics > Routing Wiring and Non-Functioning Spots |
 
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5822  
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Would have thought that the spots are controlled by a relay? I would look for that.
Andy |
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31st Dec 2014 3:19pm |
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| Northernremedy Member Since: 18 Aug 2014 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 122  
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Hi Andy, yeah - back under the seat box for me.
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31st Dec 2014 3:21pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20652
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Listen for the click when engaged, after a while some play up.
For the cost it might pay you just to get a new one anyway. After that just testing is all you can do to locate the issue, could be earthing too. |
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31st Dec 2014 4:12pm |
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| Northernremedy Member Since: 18 Aug 2014 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 122
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Hmm back to the drawing board so far relays and fuses seem ok!
On another note has anyone any tips for routing cabling to the back of the head unit? Is it possible with a coat hangar or is it a dash out job? Happy new year!!  |
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1st Jan 2015 12:39pm |
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| barbel jim Member Since: 12 Dec 2012 Location: Northants Posts: 1434 
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tight but coat hanger works
My spots was a dodgy fuse on the battery power take of. All looked ok, but swapping the fuse for new cured it |
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1st Jan 2015 1:05pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20652
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Could be poor / broken earth then, enough current flow to power the relay but not take the load of the lights.
Must be earth or if it was power the fuse would have popped. Multimeter on the relay base would be my choice, check there is the main beam power trigger there. Check earth continuity and that there is perm live at 30 before the relay and live at 87 after the relay is engaged. If all of those check out then it will be between the relay and the lights themselves. If you start to track the cabling from power source which would be main beam trigger and battery for the perm live towards the lights you should come across the problem or the problem area causing the trouble. Same scenario with the earthing via continuity test. ( Which is the beep on my multimeter) It also shows the resistance if any and the resistance should be as near to if not 0. You can continuity test the live feeds too but only once disconnected from all power sources. Having just re-read your original post regarding the switch, from what you describe there is power there but is there power out of the switch? How have you got it set up to work? Switch and main beam triggered or just the switch? If you can post how it's switched and where your relay for it is located etc it would help. As a quick test try adding an earth directly to the lights earth (nearest the lights) to a chassis point as a quick testing method. If they work, the power is fine but earth not so and will detect you problem in the earthing run. If not it might be the switch at fault instead and the best way to work it out would be via testing. |
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1st Jan 2015 1:46pm |
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| Northernremedy Member Since: 18 Aug 2014 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 122
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Well thanks for the help!! Turns out it was a dodgy fuse. I've also now worked out a bit better what is wired and where. Thanks team
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2nd Jan 2015 8:11pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20652
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How did you find out? Just swap it or detected that was the issue? |
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2nd Jan 2015 8:39pm |
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| Northernremedy Member Since: 18 Aug 2014 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 122
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Ruled out the relay then checked the switch etc and went to have a closer looks at fuses!
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2nd Jan 2015 9:18pm |
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