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Charlie Spitfire



Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
Puma Service Questions - brakes, bearings & swival joint
I have a 2008 Puma TDCI 90 2.4L with 65K on the clock. I have had it second hand since 55K on the clock. It came from a reputable dealer and when I swopped out my transmission oils they looked clean as per the scheduled 50Kmile services.

So blostered in confidence by all the excellent advice found here I am in the process of doing my first service, I have changed my engine oil, gearbox oil, transfer box oil, diff oils x2, air filter, fuel filter and I have greased my prop shafts and UV joints. Next I need to look at my wheels and brakes.

I have a question about brake pads, do I have to take the wheels off to check my brake pads? Also how do I check them, what am I looking for? I poked about this morning looking behind the front wheel and I can't really see what I am supposed to be looking at ? Is there some kind of indicator or tel tell ?

Next up is brake fluid. I believe that this has to be changed every two years. Is there any way of figuring out when it was last done? I mean do the brakes go spongy as the fluid get older? Does it change colour or are there any other clues to the need to change brake fluid? Is it better to do this routinely or to wait until it needs to be done?

What about wheel bearings? and swivel joints? Are these service items or do I just wait until the man at the MOT says my wheels are wobbly. I can't see these in the schedule below so I am completely & utterly in the dark here? Should I even be thinking about doing this at home?

Any advice anyone can give with be very much appreciated Charlie Spitfire x



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Post #462910 13th Oct 2015 1:42pm
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Cheshire110



Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2754

United Kingdom 
I've just changed the discs, pads and wheel bearings on my 2.4 110.

Pads it's best just to whip the wheel off yes, and just look at the thickness of pad remaining on each side. It's not a hard job to to and only ~Ł50 in parts for pads all round. Also a good time to look at the hub etc and see what condition it's in.

Bearings are a much bigger job but still doable. It took me about 8 hours to do the pads, discs and bearings PER PAIR. Having the right tools makes it a hard or an easy job.


If you have any specific questions let me know as I've just spend a lot of time around this area! Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.
Post #462941 13th Oct 2015 4:19pm
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Charlie Spitfire



Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
Ok understood, take the wheels off look at the pads. How do I know if the bearings need greasing or not?
Post #462945 13th Oct 2015 4:26pm
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Cheshire110



Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2754

United Kingdom 
Wheels bearings don't need changing unless you have noise or vibration from them 👍 They generally last between 50,000 and 150,000 miles. What generally kills them is water ingress and corrosion.

But when one goes (as I had) you should change both sides or all round, as in my head anyway the others can't be far behind. Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.
Post #462948 13th Oct 2015 4:30pm
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RRUK
Site Supporter


Member Since: 31 Mar 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 2025

United Kingdom 
Your biggest issue with the swivels (other than setting preload) is making sure they are lubricated enough. This is a very simple job

Remove wheel, axle stand for safety, turn wheel fully outwards for each one, remove filler plug with the 1/2" socket head and fill with a one shot grease pouch from Paddocks. I just did mine at 50k and they took three quarters of a pouch each. Well worth it or they will dry out, corrode, put and leak and then need replacing.

When you look through the filler plug you won't be able to fill unless you turn to full lock, as the swivel ball is blocking it otherwise.

Once the wheel is off its a 5 minute job. 2016 D4 HSE

1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol
Post #462949 13th Oct 2015 4:30pm
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Cheshire110



Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2754

United Kingdom 
^ Thumbs Up Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.
Post #462950 13th Oct 2015 4:31pm
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Charlie Spitfire



Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
OK so take the wheels off and inspect the pads.
When the pads need changing buy new pads and the one shot grease pouches from Paddocks and do the pads and swivel joints at the same time.

Now do I grease the bearings at the same time or do I wait for them just to wear out, vibrate, make noise etc and change them?
Post #462956 13th Oct 2015 4:57pm
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Cheshire110



Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2754

United Kingdom 
You can't really 'grease' the bearings. Well at least there's no point since you might as well replace them if you'd stripped the hub down etc to get the access them.

They just get greased when you replace them then they're sealed for the life of the bearings Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.
Post #462959 13th Oct 2015 5:19pm
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Charlie Spitfire



Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
Thanks David, understood so no need to grease the bearings. Can I ask one more question?

When do I change the brake fluid? Is that a routine by the mileage job or am I waiting for the brakes to go spongy?
Post #462982 13th Oct 2015 6:27pm
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MR_JAMES



Member Since: 10 Oct 2013
Location: ESSEX
Posts: 248

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
You change the brake fluid because it absorbs moisture from the air and turns dark brown. The moisture then corrodes the insides of your brake system eventually.


You can buy a brake fluid tester to test the moisture content - they are cheap. 1953 80"
1987 mini city e
2011 90"
Post #463062 13th Oct 2015 9:27pm
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Charlie Spitfire



Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
A "brake fluid tester" blimey come around here and you learn something new every day <smile>

Many thanks gentlemen properly helpful you lot !!!!
Post #463065 13th Oct 2015 9:34pm
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Cheshire110



Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2754

United Kingdom 
MrJames seems to know his stuff. I seemed to have in my head that if it seems ok it probably is. But that's a more scientific approach to that Thumbs Up

No worries, if you wanna know anything else then fire away. Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.
Post #463075 13th Oct 2015 10:03pm
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