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ChrisCM

Member Since: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Cornwall uk
Posts: 572

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black

Wire Slicing

Hi Guys,

A question for any auto electricians out there.

I have a Temp Check to fit and am considering a cruise control. Both these bits of kit require a number of T splices into the existing wiring harness. Which is the best way to do this?

I don't believe that any mechanical devices such as scotch blocks or terminal strips are the way to go as they are unreliable and may add too much resistance to the circuit so soldering is the way to go but......

Is it best to cut the harness wire, slip over some heat shrink tubing then solder the three wires and cover with the heat shrink, or if the harness wire is not cut but a section of the insulation removed and then soldered to the extra wire how is it insulated.

I understand it is not good practice to use insulation tape, though I do have some self amalgamating tape but it is rather bulky and may be difficult to apply in the confines of the dashboard.

Thanks

Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black.

27th Nov 2014 8:51am

K9F

Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

Not an auto electrician but a marine one.....

Hermetically sealed in-line splices are the best. There is a sleeve that is preformed with resin at each end that when you apply heat the sleeve shrinks and the resin melts making a 100% waterproof seal. I have bucket loads of these and can send you some in the post. You do need a crimping tool but you may be able to adapt if you have a crimping tool already. Alternatively if you are near Falmouth and can wait until the new year I will be down in January for dry dock for a few days and can lend/give you all you need. PM me if I can help. Soldering is not a bad idea too but I would use slightly larger heatshrink and smother the job in Sikaflex then shrink the heatshrink and allow the Sikaflex to go off, this will also ensure the job is waterproof.

The blue crimp depicted is middle size, there is a smaller red and larger yellow available dependant on cable sizes.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-butt-s...s/4445665/ If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!

27th Nov 2014 9:20am

Cupboard

Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey

the other option is something like this:
http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-power/stbht1/bu...tt=CN11433

Or just solder the joint and put some glue lined heat shrink over it.

27th Nov 2014 9:29am

ChrisCM

Member Since: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Cornwall uk
Posts: 572

Thanks Guys,

So, going back to my original post, to get a T splice I would have to cut the existing harness then, if using one of these connectors, put two wires in one end and one in the other? Would it be effective with 2 wires at one end of the connector?

I read somewhere that crimped connectors aren't as good as soldering as they can corrode and add resistance to the circuit, so I take it that with the sealant in the heat shrink this seals it to prevent oxidisation of the joint?

K9F thanks for your kind offers! Re your advice using heat shrink and sikaflex, are you suggesting sikaflex the joint then heat shrink over it all or sikaflex over the top of the heat shrink after it has been shrunk on? I think you are suggesting the former but wondered about letting the sikaflex cure after heat shrinking, wouldn't it be damaged by the heat

Thanks again,

Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black.

27th Nov 2014 12:46pm

Lorryman100

Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

I use these, all you need is a heat gun/torch,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10pcs-Heat-Shrin...5d4502c44f

27th Nov 2014 12:53pm

bpman

Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black

^^^ I used the same

27th Nov 2014 12:55pm

Martin
Site Admin

Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6605

2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red

Land Rover specify the ones like in Cupboard's CPC link for accessory fitting (spots/tow electrics).

That doesn't mean it's the best way though

1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top

2015 D90 XS SW

27th Nov 2014 1:01pm

munch90

Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

I always try not to cut the wire your joining too , which is ok if your near a plug or socket , I unpick the terminal out slide glue lined heat shrink over then refit terminal and strip insulting leave the oringnal wire in one length and wrap new wire round it then solder , so really your only joining two wires and not three makes a neater,smaller joint and you don't lose any length or strength of the original wires

I try not to use any type of crimp terminal , prefer to solder
and bl@@dy hate the ratcheting crimp tool that all they do is crush the terminal on to the wires , most of the time you can just pull the wire out
I always use the aircraft style crimper that folds the tails of the terminal into the wire so its a sort of m shape if you look in the end , funny some of the best crimpers I got are from a market and were a £1 a pair !!!

I got maybe 15 pairs of crimpers collected up over the years from snap-on to market ones and the market ones work best , my snap-on ones I ground out jaws to make them better

27th Nov 2014 1:04pm

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