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zone30

Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze

Electical schema

I have never tinkered with electrics but I want to install 4 x 54W ledbars on my car.
How they should work:

When flashing the high beam, all 4 should come on but I need to be able to disable that: TC is not so keen on that.
I also want to be able to turn them on 2 by 2 regardless of the state of the highbeam or the disabling of that feature.

I also want to install a swedish light loom at some point but I don't know if one exists for an SVX or how it ties into my idea and schema.

This is the schema I came up with but I have no idea if I grasp correctly how it should be done.

Of course I want thing to be as safe as possible.

PS the switches have a 3V/3A led in them.
No idea yet how to seperate the high beam from the car switch yet.
Regarding the resistors, one-way-valves (diodes) and relais: no idea if they exist?
I have 4 lamps, switched 2 by 2 already, but not linked to the high beam, so for now, until I have the time, I will just be replacing them with the ledbars.

Click image to enlarge

Please tell me your tought and what to be carefull of!

15th Nov 2014 1:20pm

Stue5

Member Since: 06 Jul 2014
Location: Marche
Posts: 111

I am looking to do a much simplified version (one set of lights) but don't know much about diodes and rating.
I will keep an eye on your thread, best of luck

Range Rover p38 4.6 99 lpg(gone

)

15th Nov 2014 1:34pm

zone30

Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Thx

15th Nov 2014 9:43pm

kmac

Member Since: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 1309

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

Why do you need the diodes? If you power the ledbars, the main headlight is isolated by Switch S3 in your schema, no?

Relays are readily available. The headlights in a stock car does not have a relay, power goes via the switch on the stalk to the lights. There are some threads here on modifying that in line with your pic (aside from the second switch S3)

Also the switch for the main car headlights won't need the voltage regulator to step down from 12v to 3v

Not sure why you have these for the switches for the ledbars - is it because of the 3v led in the switch?

15th Nov 2014 9:56pm

zone30

Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

I need the diodes because if otherwise when I turn on S1 of S2 my high beam goes on as well.
I need to drop down to 3V because of the leds in the switches, yes.

I understand that 1A is enough to secure the swichable sectoins, instead of 5A?

16th Nov 2014 9:40am

munch90

Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

sorry why use switches with 3v leds , you must be able to get a suitable switch for 12v with 12v led , just seems to be over complicating things

may be a typing error , but you have them at 3v/3a , surely a 3v led is not going to draw 3a that's 36w !

16th Nov 2014 10:02am

kmac

Member Since: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 1309

zone30 wrote:
I need the diodes because if otherwise when I turn on S1 of S2 my high beam goes on as well.

Won't go on unless S3 is also switched on

16th Nov 2014 10:40am

K9F

Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

I'm with Munch on this.....Horrendously overcomplicated. With your admittance of limited electrical installation my advice would be get 12v LEDs or an OEM driving light switch, bin the initial concept of being able to switch 2 + 2 (cannot see the point of this as you cannot have too much light) a single switch would be much easier. Switch the relay earth and not the positive it is better as there should be no current in the earth return. Relays draw only mA so a 5 amp fuse is way too big.
Start with a basic installation such as the one below, get that working first then develop and add features like individual switching afterwards, if it doesn't work you'll know exactly where you went wrong. I used two relays to allow for future expansion of the system and when running in the multi-core cables I ensured there were more cores than were needed as this also allows for redundancy and future addition to the system.

Not cheap as the price went up a few years ago but a foglight switch is ideal if you have a blank in your dash.

http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss0000...s&PN=1

Click image to enlarge If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!

16th Nov 2014 10:53am

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20367

I've used a 1A fuse in an inline holder for mA draw supplies inside with good results.

They aren't always easy to buy though, best off getting them online.

16th Nov 2014 11:03am

zone30

Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

munch90 wrote:
sorry why use switches with 3v leds , you must be able to get a suitable switch for 12v with 12v led , just seems to be over complicating things

may be a typing error , but you have them at 3v/3a , surely a 3v led is not going to draw 3a that's 36w !

Found 12v ones, solving that issue. Think though they are powered separately.

kmac wrote:
zone30 wrote:
I need the diodes because if otherwise when I turn on S1 of S2 my high beam goes on as well.

Won't go on unless S3 is also switched on

That's the idea! TC (you call it MOT) does not like it when the led bars go on with the high beam. This way I can just turn that feature off.

K9F wrote:
I'm with Munch on this.....Horrendously overcomplicated. With your admittance of limited electrical installation my advice would be get 12v LEDs or an OEM driving light switch, bin the initial concept of being able to switch 2 + 2 (cannot see the point of this as you cannot have too much light) a single switch would be much easier. Switch the relay earth and not the positive it is better as there should be no current in the earth return. Relays draw only mA so a 5 amp fuse is way too big.
Start with a basic installation such as the one below, get that working first then develop and add features like individual switching afterwards, if it doesn't work you'll know exactly where you went wrong. I used two relays to allow for future expansion of the system and when running in the multi-core cables I ensured there were more cores than were needed as this also allows for redundancy and future addition to the system.

Not cheap as the price went up a few years ago but a foglight switch is ideal if you have a blank in your dash.

http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss0000...s&PN=1

Click image to enlarge

Already have a basic system.

The reason I want to switch 2 + 2 is because it's convenient when camping an drains less power with only 2 switched on.

The fact it is complicated doesn't scare me.

custom90steve wrote:
I've used a 1A fuse in an inline holder for mA draw supplies inside with good results.

They aren't always easy to buy though, best off getting them online.

1A is ok apparently, thx!

I will be posting a new version later on. Some good ideas though, which I can use!

16th Nov 2014 12:58pm

mark_d

Member Since: 07 Sep 2013
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 266

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black

Hi Zone30,

Do you have a link to the specification of the switches?

It does not matter that you are using 3V LEDs as any switch that accepts 12v for the illumination will use a resistor to limit the current so that the voltage across the diode is correct. If you have to fit this resistor yourself, it is the same principle except you need a simple calculation to work out the value.

I'm not sure why you have 3 ohm resistor, these would do little to limit current. I suspect the resistor should feed the 12v to a separate terminal on the switch to power the LED.

If you changed S3 to an On-Off-On switch, you could implement this without diodes.

I think this should achieve the functionality you want:
.

Cheers,

Mark http://defender90xs.blogspot.co.uk/

16th Nov 2014 1:16pm

zone30

Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

image does not show...?
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/16mm-Green-...57160.html

V2: without diodes + switches after relais.

Click image to enlarge

16th Nov 2014 2:20pm

zone30

Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Experts: will this work?

17th Nov 2014 10:33am

mark_d

Member Since: 07 Sep 2013
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 266

This was my diagram. https://app.box.com/s/izg7f6qh5ijjmc4841kl

I think your schematic is OK.
Your illumination can be run from the existing circuit, for example the cigarette lighter socket. http://defender90xs.blogspot.co.uk/

17th Nov 2014 1:28pm

zone30

Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Thx for that, but I don't understand how, with s1 and s2 open, the high beam switch can turn the led bars on...

Damn this prooves to be quite difficult to understand!

17th Nov 2014 4:15pm

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