 | Home > Technical > How to free off a seized caliper? |
 
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| CFB Member Since: 13 Sep 2007 Location: Bradford, West Yorkshire Posts: 803  
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As in title, brake calliper has seized and pads worn to metal, any tips on how to wind the calliper back in?
I've sprayed it liberally with WD40 and opened the fluid reservoir to release the pressure but I cannot get the calliper back in even using a G Clamp Any other tips or advice welcome! Andy |
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5th Nov 2014 9:10am |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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If the pads are worn right down to the metal then the pistons are further out already than they should be normally and they may well be wonky. Check this first, then try and rotate the piston to free it off before using your g clamp again.
Will stand corrected but both front and rear pistons do not wind in as they are not the type used for handbrake also. |
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5th Nov 2014 10:16am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17384 
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About the oly thing you can do in this case, and it isn't really recommnded, is take the remains of the pads out, then press hard on the brake pedal to push the pistons further out. Then use fine wet and dry paper cut into a long thin strip to clean and polish the exposed part of the pistons back to a shine. Then lubricate them very lightly with brake fluid and see if the will go back in.
You may find it helps to leave something between the disk and the pads in order to make it easier to lever them back in. Generally I use the backing plate of a worn out pad, but you won't be able to since your pads are already this worn. Be very careful not to score or scratch the pistons. Be as careful as you can not to damage the dust shield round the piston. It is sometimes worth removing the dust shield to improve access to the piston, but it is alomst impossible to refit an pre-used one afterwards. This method has worked many times for me in the past but is best considered a temporary solution until the caliper can be replaced or overhauled. If you simply force a stuck piston back into the caliper without cleaning it, it will damage the seals, probably still be stuck, and brake performance may be dangerously compromised. It really isn't worth the risk. |
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5th Nov 2014 10:17am |
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| CFB Member Since: 13 Sep 2007 Location: Bradford, West Yorkshire Posts: 803
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The calliper is shot, new one going on later, never done this before but the mechanical side looks easy enough, I have clamped the flexi and taken the old calliper off.
Once it's all built back up do I need to bleed the air out and if so is this simple to do please? Andy |
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5th Nov 2014 12:32pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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Yes you will most determinately need to bleed the brakes, rather than me typing instructions a quick Google will bring up the usual methods. However do check the other side too - it is good practice to replace brake system parts on the same axle in pairs. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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5th Nov 2014 2:10pm |
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| CFB Member Since: 13 Sep 2007 Location: Bradford, West Yorkshire Posts: 803
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Change was a doddle, I seem to have got away without needing a re-bleed, I clamped the flexi and filled the calliper with fresh fluid from the bottle before attaching the brake pipe to minimise any air lock. Pedal still feels firm and stopping is good so will see how it fares. Andy
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5th Nov 2014 4:28pm |
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| Merlin Member Since: 30 Oct 2010 Location: Newmarket Posts: 981
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Next time change the pistons to stainless steel ones. Then that should be the last time you get this problem. Seem to remember you get them from Zeus in SW England. There is a thread on here that explains.
Merlin |
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5th Nov 2014 5:31pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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From a safety point of view , if you find you cant push pistons back with minimal force using water pump pliers or proper spreader then its time to replace caliper or at least new pistons ( new caliper is best option really ) if you have not replaced pistons and seals before , they can a right pain and if your not sure then really a new caliper is best
If you clean the pistons with emery paper then they will rust again quickly because the reason there rusty is the chrome has gone and if the chrome is flaky then there is a very very good chance of damageing the seals when you do push it back I always say what price can you put on safety ! Last edited by munch90 on 5th Nov 2014 8:32pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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5th Nov 2014 7:10pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8030  
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it will def need bleeding if you have changed the caliper.
for the time and costs of parts to change pistons i have now resorted to changing callipers complete. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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5th Nov 2014 8:29pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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I would agree with above 100% , but one better is new caliper then fit stainless pistons , but expensive
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5th Nov 2014 8:35pm |
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| Merlin Member Since: 30 Oct 2010 Location: Newmarket Posts: 981
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Zeus:
http://www.zeus.uk.com/index.php Merlin |
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6th Nov 2014 11:17am |
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| Lotus_esprit_s1 Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Uk Posts: 201 |
In the past I rebuilt all my calipers with Zeus Pistons, on reflection I should've bought new calipers and fitted the stainless Pistons as the used ones have worn holes for the pad retaining pins on the front and worn surfaces on the rear resulting in sloppy brake pads and a loud clunk every time the brakes are applied
I'd be wary of "re manufactured" calipers as I've had some of these apart recently and the worn surfaces on the rear had been built up with braze ina slap dash method and then zinc plated - the pads wouldn't fit until I'd filed the surface flush. |
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8th Nov 2014 5:19am |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3641 
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CBF I'm glad you fixed it
I would however recommend bleeding the caliper even if the pedal feels hard now, any air in the system will expand if you use the brakes in anger and they get warm, I also agree that it is best to replace both sides if you have not already. Also I have been told by my old man whom was a development engineer with Girling that WD40 should be kept away from brake system seals as it rots them over time, and that only special brake seal lubricants or brake fluid should be used. DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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8th Nov 2014 7:29am |
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| bga86 Member Since: 17 Jan 2014 Location: Here and there Posts: 205 
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Exactly what he said ^ When customers cars need brakes at work if I have any doubts about pistons being seized I recommend new calipers. Not worth the risk! |
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8th Nov 2014 4:14pm |
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