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| Jimb1978 Member Since: 05 Sep 2012 Location: Huddersfield Posts: 808   
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Hot dip is definately have done and forget but if you can do cold yourself(I have no idea what that is by the way), then that may be the way to go on small items. My local galvaniser has a minimum charge of £50, so it cost me £250 to have a chassis, body cappings, various chassis brackets and the front inner arches doing.....
My point being, a lot of stuff then have it done hot, but maybe for one or two small items then cold might be cost effective, if not as long lasting as hot.....just my two Penneth. |
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7th Sep 2013 7:59pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294 
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I would really need to do a few bits at a time really would be easiest for me. I'm a bit tired of having to take bits off more or less each year to paint them, especially powder coated stuff.
Cold galvanizing is in a spray can and often used to protect welds and such like in existing galvanized metal. Like this: eBay Item No. 181112663392 âï¸âï¸God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 âï¸âï¸ |
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7th Sep 2013 8:15pm |
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| Jimb1978 Member Since: 05 Sep 2012 Location: Huddersfield Posts: 808
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Ah yes. The galvanisers supplied me with a can of that stuff to use in case of damage. Good job really as during the rebuild I rolled it down the drive and bent the rear crossmember. It cracked and split the galv, so I used the spray. I kept that land rover for 5 or 6 years and that part of the chassis Did not show any sign of rust. However, I am led to believe that exposed bare steel that is next to galvanised steel will corrode slower as the rust is unable to spread as quickly.
Personally, I cannot see the cold galvaniser being any better than a well prepped, etch primed and top coated finish. In my opinion, powder coating is often done poorly. I have owned many powder coated products...some last, some don't. Sharp corners will cause powder coating to peel and rust to start. The main drawback for powder coating is you can't retreat like you can with paint. Last edited by Jimb1978 on 7th Sep 2013 8:44pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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7th Sep 2013 8:36pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294
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I do use etch primer a lot and always found it good. Do you think etch primer would be perfectly fine on its own instead?
As far as I know from what I have read up as well as it's ability to etch into materials to create a good bond apparently it is a good anti corrosion primer too. Perhaps I should do both.  âï¸âï¸God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 âï¸âï¸ |
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7th Sep 2013 8:40pm |
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| Jimb1978 Member Since: 05 Sep 2012 Location: Huddersfield Posts: 808
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As far as i can see, The only real benefit for cold galvanise spray is to match in with the colour of galvanised steel.
If you are painting a component to a certain colour, then etching and top coating will give just as hard wearing finish as your galvaniser spray stuff. |
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7th Sep 2013 8:49pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294
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I'll try etch primer only and see how that goes.
Thanks for your replies.  âï¸âï¸God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 âï¸âï¸ |
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7th Sep 2013 8:58pm |
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| Jimb1978 Member Since: 05 Sep 2012 Location: Huddersfield Posts: 808
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Sorry...just reading all that back....do not use etch primer on its own. It is designed to grip the surface of the steel to provide a base for top coat. It remains porous (for want of a better word) to enable a top coat to 'stick'
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7th Sep 2013 9:03pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294
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yep that's right but it'd be etch primer base coat then clear coat. The paint side of it is fine as far as I'm concerned not worried about that at all but the corrosion problems I am, hence mentioning the cold galv.
I was originally thinking. Cold galv, etch primer, base coat and then clear coat. âï¸âï¸God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 âï¸âï¸ |
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7th Sep 2013 9:09pm |
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| db950 Member Since: 01 Feb 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 560 
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First and foremost is getting rid of the corrosion/rust, doesn't matter what you paint on it if not removed first it will come back!
The best thing to do it in would be a product called selemix direct 70% gloss, you can get it mixed in any RAL colour and it sprays on to bare metal no primer and even if chipped after the corrosion doesn't seep further under the paint, excellent adhesion to any surface even glass! The only problem is its a 2K product so rules out a DIY job. Next best thing is a product called technigrip, again any colour but is single pack and can be made in aerosols or tins and no primer needed. Best to speak to your local paint motor factor, they will point you in the right direction plus recommend any spray shops. Bumper and cross member painted in direct gloss;  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge 1997 Ex-MOD 110, Pop Top Camper, build thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72352.html 2014 Discovery 4 SE Tech Instagram @the110camper |
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9th Sep 2013 11:44am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294
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Sorry I missed your post somehow.
I'm going to try as you say get rid of all existing rust, cold galv, acid etch prime, base coat and finally clear coat. Not too worried about the actual paint finish as I know I can get that spot on but it's actually treating the steel underneath that needs to be done hence the cold galv. As is I could paint it perfectly and it'll be fine for a fair while but areas such as where the fixings are the rust will creep and then paint flake off, simply because the steel is exposed in a miniscule area where the fixings take off the paint. Which is no good at all really. Will see how it goes.  âï¸âï¸God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 âï¸âï¸ |
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11th Sep 2013 10:34pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17346 
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A regime I have used to great effect on steam restorations is to go back to bare steel (ideally wet blast, but needle gun acceptable) then use a 25% organo-phosporic acid wash, then prime, undercoat and paint. Tests have shown that the adhesion achieved by this method exceeds North Sea Oil Industry standards.
Whatever method you use make sure that you do not burnish the bare metal suface (easily done if using an angle-grinder and wire brush) since this has a significant detrimental effect on adhesion. The phosphoric acid wash does exactly what the tradition "rust convertor" products did and converts the rust into a more stable oxide which forms a tough impervious surface layer (Fe2O3 to FeO, IIRC). |
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12th Sep 2013 7:18am |
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| db950 Member Since: 01 Feb 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 560
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The selemix direct I mentioned above is relatively new to the market but is now being used by a few of the big agricultural manufacturers where a high gloss finish is not needed, it cuts down labour time so much, shot blast old steel or degrease new steel then 2-3 coats of direct and your done! No primer and no undercoat!
Obviously 70% gloss isn't ideal for everything but they are working on a higher gloss rate, although you can cheat like I have on mine and apply 2k clear lacquer over it while its still wet to achieve full gloss. I've done some wrought iron gates for a chap with it, perfect stuff for this kind of work and if it gets chipped the water can't seep under it due it's adhesion. 1997 Ex-MOD 110, Pop Top Camper, build thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72352.html 2014 Discovery 4 SE Tech Instagram @the110camper |
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12th Sep 2013 8:45am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294
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Just been thinking about this again tonight, mainly about hot dip galvanizing.
Anyone know roughly what it costs? I'm talking a NAS rear tow step, bumperettes, Shadow bumper and so on. All prepared for dipping. âï¸âï¸God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 âï¸âï¸ |
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18th Feb 2014 9:34pm |
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| AndrewS Member Since: 10 Apr 2007 Location: Hereford Posts: 3707 
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About £160 to £200 a tonne. Usually minimum order of 1 tonne applies. If you are lucky and befriend your local Galv plant on a Saturday morning the 'dippers' may push it through for a few beers
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18th Feb 2014 9:40pm |
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