Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Chequer plate fixing |
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X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 |
Hello Vitesse
In principle this is not a silly idea. I have done this with an alloy tread pattern material, on an all alloy boat and used 3M VHB tape. 3M have a service to advise on the tape type depending on the environment and conditions of use, in my case, a reasonably high temperature range (anodized alloy in prolonged sun light) and essentially semi submerged in salt water. So in principle bonding chequer plate sills in place (or any other 'plate' parts) with VHB is I would say viable. The only issue that comes to mind is that once on... there on, refinishing in time will probably have to be in situ. SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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17th Oct 2014 12:41pm |
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Vitesse Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Sussex Posts: 388 |
Hello Skip,
Many thanks. Yes, I viewed this as the plate being on "for life". I will investigate the 3M Tape you mention. Thank you. 2015 90 XS Santorini Black |
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17th Oct 2014 3:27pm |
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roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039 |
I use plenty of silicon sanitary it sticks well when cured and it is removable without damage. Roel
1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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17th Oct 2014 5:00pm |
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Jonno1968 Member Since: 24 Oct 2013 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 245 |
Just bloddy rivet them on. Why would you need to take them off? Has any one on here ever needed to take them off?
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17th Oct 2014 5:48pm |
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Grouse Member Since: 16 Apr 2012 Location: on the hill Posts: 523 |
+1 of more concern would be if one came off on the motorway - a sheet of aluminium treadplate flying through the air and wacking a motorcyclist or other road user at 70 mph does not bare thinking about AND there is no way on earth sanitory silicone is going to hold tread plate on, on its own - 3m adhesive might but silicone is a bloody joke !
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17th Oct 2014 5:59pm |
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Ellisboy Member Since: 13 Oct 2013 Location: Deep South Posts: 539 |
You could stick them on with some Sika, the solar panel on my camper is glued to the roof using Sika ebt from Screwfix.No other fixing is needed,you can't physically pull it off,only cutting through the Sika with a bread knife will Seperate it.Modern adhesives are very good these days.
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17th Oct 2014 7:26pm |
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Mcmuffin Member Since: 01 Apr 2014 Location: Antwerp city Posts: 38 |
Keep in mind that you don't glue to te wing. You glue it to the paint layer on your wing! The strengt depends on the paint-quality too, so not only on the glue.
Kris Last edited by Mcmuffin on 18th Oct 2014 8:48pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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18th Oct 2014 7:38pm |
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roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039 |
Did you try it? Front number plate Click image to enlarge Rear number plate and checker plate land rover. Click image to enlarge While glueing: Click image to enlarge One of my Disco 3 door protectors is glued too: Click image to enlarge Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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18th Oct 2014 8:40pm |
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Grouse Member Since: 16 Apr 2012 Location: on the hill Posts: 523 |
Errr! There is a bit of a difference between a tiny piece of chequer plate or a small number plate being stuck on! I stand by what I said - Sanitory silicone is not suitable for sticking on chequer plate panels to sills, wings or bonnets - sanitory silicone is not glue and is designed to keep effluent seeping behind your toilet! It simply isn't designed to hold vehicle panels on at motorway speeds, against wind and vibration etc - especially where other road used lives are at risk.
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18th Oct 2014 10:18pm |
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X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 |
Grouse I would say is right, Silicone of any type is not the product to use, its primary role is a sealant not an adhesive, some talk about bonding but (IMO) you would be heading down the route of the 'no more nails' mentality of bringing two things together, they have there place, but start by looking at best route(s) out there.
You could use a few adhesives to tackle the original question, but as always it's in the detail. It must be a product capable of the job, it must be applied correctly, surface preparation is required, (polish removal / panel wipes for example), also the large surface area of chequer plate whilst makes for a potentially good bond, a close even gap between surfaces is ideally required, trying to do this on a puma bonnet for example may not be wise if the supplied part is 'there or there abouts'. 3M VHB Tape / Rolls & Sheeting, depending on the type has a thickness that accommodates undulations and minor variations between the two mating surfaces, controlled pressure / spread clamping is required. So whilst bonding is possible, and Mcmuffin makes a good point, you are bonding to the painted surface, so is it good enough, or do you need to surface key it. If in any doubt may be Jonno1968 has it right, 'just mechanically fix them' (or something like that) The point about if bonded correctly, they should be considered there for life, relates to refinishing them, if they are powered coated for example, or in a contrasting colour to your Defender, you will have to paint them in situ, if they require it later on, to do the best job (maintaining finish type and painting around edges) they should ideally come off, but it's marginal, mechanically fixing them back on will 'break' the painted finish at these points and corrosion will probably start from the rivets / fasteners. I have wing tops and lower sills in colour coded (Stornoway Grey) mechanically fixed with SS countersunk bolts Click image to enlarge Even though I could remove them all (if needed), they will be resprayed in situ, keyed, etch primed, sprayed, and clear coated. As I returned to my parked Defender last week I watched a driver parked next to me swing his door open (with his foot) into my side step. These have proved useful, not only to get in and to help when washing the roof, but to stop some car parking damage from other motorists SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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19th Oct 2014 7:26am |
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roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039 |
The sticky tape (probably 3M or similar) were my UK disco3 rear plate glued to my D3 was easy removable.
If I want to remove my silicon glued number plates I need to do a lot more work. If silicon doesn't stick it also doesn't seal either. Do whatever you feel right I didn't loose anything silicon glued yet. Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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19th Oct 2014 10:06am |
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landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5791 |
As a bathroom fitter I can tell you all that silicon sealer will hold it on, and I won't pop off the first time you reach 20mph. Try removing an old basin that is just held by the stuff, it sticks, well. Although saying that I would not use it I would sikaflex or tiger seal it on. Most modern cars are glued together these days, some cars rely one the sealer holding the glass in for 70% of the cars rigidity. So if sealer can hold glass to that level, and even to withhold and explosion such as air bags, a bit of cp won't be a problem. A good bed of pu sealer will be much stronger than half a dozen rivets.
Andy |
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19th Oct 2014 10:17am |
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K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 |
YES! See my post page 1.... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic28048.html?highlight=crud If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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20th Oct 2014 7:48am |
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