 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Intermittently Working Rear Reversing Light |
 
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2297   
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Hello all,
Can anyone point me in the right direction 
As the title states I have a intermittently working rear reversing light on a 2010 2.4dtci (90) fitted with a MT82 (standard) 6 speed gearbox. The Reverse Light is the 95 dia NAS style light, that both the bulb and wiring connection checks out OK, so I'm thinking that maybe it's the reverse switch on the gearbox that is semi-connecting on occasions. Its currently working but it's MOT time and I wanted to check further... WD40 in hand. Anyone else experienced this, am I on the right track, and can someone advise on the easiest route to locate this switch
Thanks. SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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8th Oct 2014 9:09pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17598 
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I had exactly the same symptoms caused by the switch not being fully screwed into the gearbox. Tightened it up and it's been problem-free for over 100,000 miles.
Access to the switch is greatly improved if you take the seat-box top panel between the front seats out and go in from the cab. |
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8th Oct 2014 9:26pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2297
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Thanks munch90 and blackwolf
...not in MOT, interesting and I'm surprised, 
handy though as I checked earlier today with my local garage as I also noticed yesterday that my high level rear break light doesn't work and the bulb is also OK there too. Garage said providing you have the two 'waist' level breaking lights working that is enough, we would just advise on the higher one. Will investigated the reverse switch, and see if I can get to it without starting to take the interior apart 
Thanks again... SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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8th Oct 2014 9:39pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20612
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Check the battery terminals are tight and the chassis earths. (Ideally someone can give you these details)
If you've got multiple lights not working but the fixture / bulb or LED is functional and these is adequate power there then it could be the earth(s) |
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8th Oct 2014 10:14pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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high level brake for mot is a bit of a strange one
if high level fitted and WIRED up it has to work BUT on mot test your not allowed to remove panels etc to check if its wired up so they cant fail only advise another well throught out rule if you got a couple of lights playing up , run through the lights with someone in drivers seat and you checking lights from behind sidelights on push brake sidelights on try indiacators and push brake brake all at once make sure no lights dim or flicker when any combination is tried if they do you may have a dodgy earth or connection somewhere that wont show when you check lights on your own without extra load of brake lights etc loads of people check lights by putting sidelights on walk to back , switch sides off check indiacaters walk to back , switch off indicators , wedge brake pedal walk to back etc , but doing this way its easy to miss a earth fault / flickering light etc |
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9th Oct 2014 7:27am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2297
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Hi munch90
I agree...for obvious reasons the MOT inspection is a non-dis-assembly process. The high level rear Break light on the Defender is powered via two dedicated elements tracking up on the heated rear window, a typical arrangement, so no physical wires, beyond the supply to the rear door. Putting a meter on the terminals on the lower section of the glass, gives me a 12V reading when the break pedal is applied... it just doesn't result in the light working 
Buy a Defender... Become a Detective. SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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9th Oct 2014 7:51am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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anything on the top connections like wires to bulb , wires to glass terminals etc ?
are you checking across the connections (both connections to lamp ) or say body earth and + lamp connection ? are you testing with muiltmeter , muiltimeters are ok but don't put any load on to test , so wont show just a bad connection that breaks down under load , better to use a test light or say 12v 10-21w bulb on wires . sorry if you know this , but I don't know if do have you tested bulb or just does it look ok , bulbs can look good but they not ! |
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9th Oct 2014 8:08am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2297
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No problem munch90 thanks for your thoughts...
I can do as you suggest, I just haven't had the time, a quick bulb check and a multi meter across the lower feed terminals onto the window is all so far. More to do to solve this no-doubt. Knowing it dosn't work currently, feels like i'm breaking with no lights...don't like it 
Reversing Light is hanging in there though  SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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9th Oct 2014 8:22am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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I know what you mean !
its amazing how many drivers rely on brake lights , drive a car knowing you got no brake lights and see how close people behind get before seeing your slowing down I DONT RECONMEND IT , IT HORRIBLE |
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9th Oct 2014 8:46am |
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