 | Home > Td5 > Sleepless Nights - Alarming!! |
 
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| Killer90 Site Sponsor Member Since: 09 Oct 2011 Location: Hertfordshire Posts: 6478   
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Mine did the same, was the internal alarm which was causing it. Unplugged for a good few months cured it then plugged it back in
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20th Jul 2013 11:38pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443  
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I'll second that! All the Land Rover/Rover products I've had with the similar alarm system to the Defender have struggled when the internal sensor part of the alarm has been fitted when it's hot. My current Defender is a poverty spec one with no internal sensor fitted from new. The inside bit can be turned off with a Nanocom or the like or if you want to test it first, don't lock and arm the motor with the plip, you'll have factory fitted central locking with the internal sensor so just lock the doors with the key in the drivers door, this locks the doors via central locking and activates the immobiliser and the basic alarm which covers doors being opened as well as popping the bonnet. This method is used when you want to lock and alarm a motor and leave a dog(with open windows for air) in a motor without the mut setting off the alarm when they move around.
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20th Jul 2013 11:48pm |
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| Lambley Member Since: 20 Apr 2013 Location: Mid Devon Posts: 1435 
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Mine did the same thing a few times, it turned out to be the door switches in the door recesses, when the door is closed they complete the circuit, after fitting some soundproofing or having the carpets out for some reason (I can't remember what now) there must have been a slight short circuit, after a bit of fiddling and a few squirts of WD40 it stopped. Might not be that but try it. Also try the bonnet switch too, sometimes one of them can stick a bit.
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21st Jul 2013 1:01am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6300 
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carrying on from what lambley said. I believe its not unusal for the wiring to breakdown on the flexible joint between the b fram and the door. if theres a poor connection I presume this could create the problems your experiencing?
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21st Jul 2013 8:43am |
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| Buddy2shoes Member Since: 25 Jun 2013 Location: Chorley, Lancashire Posts: 15 
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Thanks Guys for your input. Mine doesn't have an internal movement sensor, so I can rule out that one. Last night I locked the car manually, as suggested, without using the remote, and I assume without arming the alarm. Strange thing was though this morning the car was not locked. At least the alarm didn't go off. I was wondering if the central locking is activating itself, and this is what is setting the alarm off.
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21st Jul 2013 9:41am |
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| Zinke Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Scunthorpe Posts: 670 
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You need to read the fault codes on the alarm ECU. Well there not exactly fault codes but they will tell you what the last few things are that set the alarm off so you will know what set it off and know what to look for.
Pete. |
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21st Jul 2013 10:53am |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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That sounds more like a break in the wiring as described above causing a "mislock" sometime after you lock it which is then telling the alarm that a door has been opened, inspection of the looms between the door posts and the doors. Were all the doors open or just one? If all the problem may lie in the drivers door which generally is the 'master" switch, I'm not sure with a factory fitted CL system but on my aftermarket setup only by locking the front door does the rest get activated. It may even be a solonoid giving up through the night opening the doors but seeing as the alarm is still active, gets triggered
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21st Jul 2013 11:55am |
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| Buddy2shoes Member Since: 25 Jun 2013 Location: Chorley, Lancashire Posts: 15
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I going to check the wiring harnesses, see if I can find any obvious breaks or loose connections.
One good thing has come out of this, it's prompted me to soak the drivers door lock in WD40, so at least I can now lock it manually. |
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21st Jul 2013 12:15pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17442 
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Are you absolutely sure about this? The reason I ask is that I have read somewhere (almost certainly here on this forum) that this actually doesn't set the alarm at all, just the immobiliser. I haven't had the time to test this out, but I believe that on a vehicle with a 10AS, central locking, and both perimetric and volumetric sensors you have the following options:- 1) Lock with plip - immobiliser and alarm set, with the perimetric and volumetric sensors operative. 2) Lock door with key - immobiliser set, alarm not set, perimetric and volumetric sensors not operational. 3) Lock with plip before shutting driver's door, then shut door after 'mislock' beep - immobiliser set, alarm set with perimetric detection only since the mislock condition disables the volumetric sensor. Option 1 clearly locks everything and is ideal if you are shutting the windows and not leaving the dog, kids, or granny in the vehicle. Option 2 is the official recommended one if leaving the windows open or animals/kids/granny in the car but I don't think the alarm will some if someone reaches in and opens the door, or, for that matter, breaks a window and opens the door. It must be stressed that I haven't myself tested these yet, although it would be easy enough to do, but if there is someone who can confirm or contradic this I would be interested to hear. If correct this shoudl be the case for all Defenders with the 10AS unit, central locking, and internal (volumetric) and door/bonnet (perimetric) detection. The other popular option is to put a small piece of duct tape over the front and/or rear facing parts of the volumetric sensor. |
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22nd Jul 2013 9:40am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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You're right - just been and checked my handbook - locking with the key only sets the immobiliser and not the rest of the alarm.
Strangely, it worked as JWL describes on a Discovery I, which used the same 10AS alarm, so I wonder if it can be re-configured somehow? Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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22nd Jul 2013 9:56am |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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You are probably right, I am only speaking from what knowledge I have from various Discoverys and Rover cars I've had over the ages most of which were pre millenium(you don't get to say that very often!) My 110 has just a basic alarm, no volumetric part; and an aftermarket central locking set up. From what I can remember the alarm would go off if the doors were opened when locked with a key, easily checked by locking with key with window open on another door but the drivers door, then open said door. It allways seemed to me that the alarm seemed to be different with every motor I had
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22nd Jul 2013 10:06am |
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| Buddy2shoes Member Since: 25 Jun 2013 Location: Chorley, Lancashire Posts: 15
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I was using the key to lock the car in the hope that it wouldn't set the alarm, and drive the neighbours to put together a lynch mob after waking the street 2nights on the trot, so it's reassuring to hear that this is indeed the case.
Had a little poke around last night and discovered that the drivers door switch doesn't always activate the interior light, and needs a bit of wiggle. I was wondering whether this might have something to do with. Although another strange thing has happened, a couple of times I have locked the car using the key, only to find the car unlocked on my return. Now I'm fairly sure it was locked, so that may mean the central locking is activating randomly. |
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22nd Jul 2013 8:48pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6300
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could the wires in the flex joing between b pillar and door be shot with the occassional short between 2 of them?
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22nd Jul 2013 8:55pm |
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| Buddy2shoes Member Since: 25 Jun 2013 Location: Chorley, Lancashire Posts: 15
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It's looking that way.
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22nd Jul 2013 8:59pm |
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