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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Buyers guide for defender puma
We need a buyers guide for defender puma models to cover what's what for potential buyers

Why do you want a defender?
What model ?
What to look for

Introduced in 2007 with 2.4 ford turbo diesel
Rust proofing consists of thin coat of paint on chassis
Clutch was an issue but should have been replaced by now
Recall issued for oil leak from rear oil seal to handbrake mechanism
Post #359622 23rd Sep 2014 5:47am
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
Great idea - especially now the 2.4s are beginning to "mature".
To make it really comprehensive for beginners, how to spot typical issues, roughly what they cost to fix and how difficult e.g. bearings, under sealing, discs, EGR, injectors, windscreen leaks etc. For the uninitiated, these can be rather surprising (or eye-watering) Shocked
Or perhaps that's going a bit far Confused Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #359624 23rd Sep 2014 6:11am
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Ok, here my 5 pence. 2.4 Puma Sep 2008 SVX, now 72k km. Driving style,... well you all know that I think.
Why did I buy it? Well, because I like it, not because I needed it.

Within the first year, EGR valve played up, MIL light, safe mode, etc. Replaced under warranty, since then no more problems.
I also was not familiar with the fact that the Puma cooling water in the first winter warms up so slow. I have complained about that, dealer replaced the cooling water thermostatic valve, but in the end the reality is that the engine is so efficient in its energy production if compared with a gasoline engine, that there actually was not really a problem.
Leaks, only one sofar, in its 4th year, my rear diff seal (where the propshaft enters) leaked, and was replaced by LR under warranty. No further problems. Zero other leaks, never a drop of oil or grease on the ground.
Intercooler hose: in its third year it split. Was replaced by dealer under warranty, since then no more problems, but I am still waiting for Entreq to bring back to their store the stainless steel version.
Clutch: still on my first original clutch. For its second and third year (guess at around 20 to 35k km) there was the typical rattle when in idle, rattle which goes away when you depress the clutch. Mentioned this several times to my dealer, but the answer was that they all do that sir. Did not take this any further as at one point it just went away, and for the last 30k km I did not hear this anymore. Clutch just works fîne still now.
Fuel breather pipe, almost forgot about that. I had it replaced preventively as it was cracking but not leaking yet, so I paid for it, and if you read this dedicated thread, you will see that it is not a massive job, at least not for my dealer.
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic22296-30.html
Rear driveshafts. I have had some kind of a clunk somewhere in the driveline when changing gears upward, mostly 1/2, 2/3, 3/4. Now what is this really is difficult to pinpoint, there are so many components under the truck. I did mention this to my dealer a year ago, and in the end in their opinion it was due to play in the half shafts which were renewed this year under the extended warranty. Now, a certain clunk is still there, but I have found that you can entirely eliminate this by changing up gears even more slowly than I already did. So I play it down to driving style. I have checked play in the propshafts myself, and that is just the normal 5mm or so. Maybe replacing the halfshafts was not even necessary, just don't know.
Rust, none, but that is thanks to diligent preventive actions taken, from SS screws and nuts, to dinitrol, painting the rear cross member, replacing the headlamp bezels by SS versions, etc.....
Otherwise not much to say, I may forget a few things, but then they surely were minor, and easily taken care of by the dealer.
Oh yes, my 12N electrics socket corroded in the first three years, mainly because I had never used it, and never bothered to look inside. It was also replaced under warranty, and the LR version I have now is fully sealed from the rear where the wires enter, and I have taken the habit to regularly spray the inside with WD-40. It is 3 years there and shining new.
Further I do more than regular maintenance, engine oil/filter and full greasing twice per year, irrespective of the low kms I do per annum, diffs/gear/transfer box oils every year. Fuel filter just every two years as per the book as I do not many km and run only very premium fuel, air filter the same every two years, I never drive in dustbowls.... Some will say overkill, but I think all those things do like fresh oils, clean grease and all those other things well in time or earlier.
Last but not least, in my first few years the truck was running on typical french supermarket fuel (we are close to the border and diesel is much cheaper there than here). I had read a lot about BP Ultimate on here (by bpman) but was not a believer as I heard that the Puma in the Defender can run perfectly on poor fuels in Africa too.... Was I wrong, at one point I made the test with Swiss BP Ultimate (which is 100% mineral diesel, zero biodiesel), and the change was virtually immediate. Much less of a diesel knock, engine runs much smoother, and also the chuka chuka chuka of the EGR cleaning cycle changed from a scratching sound, to something very very gentle now. I have not used any other fuel than BP Ultimate for 3 years now and will keep on doing so.
Hope helps, Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw


Last edited by ericvv on 17th Nov 2014 4:43am. Edited 5 times in total
Post #359638 23rd Sep 2014 7:10am
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
Steve, do you want to compile all the info into a list? I would be happy to do so as I need a project at the moment to stop me spending more money Whistle However, I'm not that knowledgeable about the "serious" mechanics, so you would need to edit it...
Sorry if I'm sticking my nose in (wouldn't be the first time).
Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #359639 23rd Sep 2014 7:18am
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Hey Matt

I'm happy just to see how the thread evolves
If you would like to do a list go for it .... My idea was to help newbies with basic questions
Post #359644 23rd Sep 2014 8:00am
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Post #359654 23rd Sep 2014 9:26am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
OK, things to check for on a TDCi (all details elsewhere on the forum). These are the main Puma-specific things to check on top of the customary classic Defender checks, in my opinion:-

- Two gear front diff on earlier 110 and 130 vehicles
- PCJ 'issue'
- Clutch
- Gearbox output adaptor shaft splines
- Transmission backlash/drivability issues
- Vac pump oil seal
- Fuel tank breather
- Oil leak into handbrake
- Handbrake knock on overrun
- Passive Immobiliser
- Wiring harness over Aircon compressor (if AC fitted)
- Heater control (especially fan switch) inoperability
- EGR valve noise/malfunction
Post #359676 23rd Sep 2014 10:45am
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
I guess references to the water ingress manual would be useful
And to the workshop manuals

Beginners guide to topix?
Post #359688 23rd Sep 2014 11:25am
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
I was thinking of an "idiot-proof guide" with sight/sound/smell etc. info (death rattle, chukka etc.) so someone like me can read it and go and buy a Puma knowing what's wrong and what it might cost to put right. I might do a few and see what you think... Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #359726 23rd Sep 2014 2:47pm
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dulwich man



Member Since: 29 Nov 2011
Location: Dulwich
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Whilst a buyers guide is a good idea especially for those who are new to the mark. Let us not put people off buying as many including me have had virtually no problems and those problems in my case came to light within the first 6 months of purchase from new, and were put right by my dealer without question and no problems since. all I do is to change the oils at above recommended service times. All defenders are an incredible bit of kit if maintained properly and will take a staggering amount of abuse if the owners actually learn how to drive them and have got me out of trouble often when other similar marks simply "blow up" or just are not capable. Perhaps with all the wretched computers they have lost there "hit it with hammer" capability ( That why I still love my 2.5 NA) But i trust my Puma to always succeed and it has never let me down in "As purchased configurations and no modifications". No disrespect to those who do modify - it is all part of the fun. EVERY other new vehicle I have have purchased has been far more trouble than "Eric". Hence Eric and "old Eric" are keepers.
Remember Forums are mainly for those who have problems how many of our favorite vehicle is still on the road compared to others.
Land rover are are stupid not to find away around Euro rubbish. There is always an engineering solution to our unique vehicles. So Just keep it positive. Us owners are the lucky ones
Post #359772 23rd Sep 2014 6:22pm
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
"All defenders are an incredible bit of kit if maintained properly "
Absolutely true, but no harm in letting potential buyers know what to watch out for if they haven't (or if certain parts have aged naturally) - the same is true of any vehicle, especially if it's several years old. At 2 years old, my A2 had cracks around the door hinges where the aluminium gets fatigued. Thanks to the A2 forum I spotted it and the owner got it fixed before I bought it Thumbs Up Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #359782 23rd Sep 2014 7:06pm
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AndyS



Member Since: 18 Aug 2012
Location: London
Posts: 595

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Sumatra Black
dulwich man wrote:
Let us not put people off...


2011, 30,000 miles, no problems. Went through a squeaky EGR valve phase but that went away by the time I got around to moaning about it to LR. In all, about as good as you could ask for. Car is totally standard apart from taking the steps off. Actually I did my first upgrade this week, new window wipers. I wonder if some of the problems with Defenders isn't self induced with after market modifications?
Post #359809 23rd Sep 2014 8:29pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
dulwich man wrote:
Let us not put people off buying...


totally agree, I bought a new 2.4 110 Ice edition in 2010 from a LR main dealer in Geneva. To date it has almost 18,000 miles on it. When I bought it, I immediately had it dinitrolled and it's kept clean and mainly dry.

Although its not a daily drive, It's been to Switzerland, France, Italy, England, Scotland, Denmark, Sweden and Norway including the Arctic circle in the winter and It's never missed a beat.

Warranty wise its been in for the handbrake recall and vac pump oil seal - nothing has gone wrong !

Would I buy another - probably not, I'll be keeping this one.

tips: If you can find one with recaros, you will find them very comfortable. If you find one heavily modified, you will quickly get a feel for the quality of the modifications. Defenders can be described as enthusiasts cars, so they will be modified to an extent and can usually be put back to standard.


Last edited by bpman on 24th Sep 2014 6:42am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #359862 24th Sep 2014 6:32am
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
The Disco boys get a Wiki Thumbs Up
Post #359863 24th Sep 2014 6:41am
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