↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home > Puma (Tdci) > Perfectly running 2.4Tcdi - now Nordic trip in jeopardy!
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 2 12>
Print this entire topic · 
90_ken



Member Since: 03 Oct 2014
Location: St albans
Posts: 8

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
Perfectly running 2.4Tcdi - now Nordic trip in jeopardy!
Firstly this is my fault and perhaps that of the RAC man who drained and flushed the system.

We bought an 07 2.4 Tcdi two months ago for a Nordic road trip, started researching how to prep it for a mid winter depart (Mid December 2014). My wife's dream of traveling up through Norway to the arctic circle, through Swedish & Finnish Lapland and back through Finland. She's half Finnish and hasn't seen the northern lights, and as a photograph she wants to capture the natural beauty.

Last week I topped up the fuel tank on the way to collect her from the station with Ultimate unleaded rather than Ultimate diesel. I always use the same BP petrol station and use ultimate as the landy runs a lot better on it, as she has had the ECU remapped by the previous owner. We paid extra for the Puma as it is immaculate and obviously had an easy life, with only 38k and none of the legacy Puma issues.

The fuel contamination was 9 litres, and yes I did notice, stopped and then finished the tank off with ultimate diesel. So their was 50 litres of diesel at the start and ten topped off with another 10 or so. I decided to drive the landy and collect the wife from the station, at first nothing was different. After 1 mile, some intermittent power loss. After another mile collect my wife and we started home slowly. Engine became nosier and some, although little, loss of power. After 3 mile journey home it seemed to be running fine.

I was going to run the landy locally, continually topping her up with ultimate and diesel additive. But because of this planned trip I got the RAC to come and drain her. The guy seemed familiar with landys and diesels and after using a hand pump got her running and all seemed fine.

A few days later on a longer trip, about an hour, we started losing power on the M1 and after stopping and checking everything, started off again and all was well. Now since the drain, the fuel pump ( i belief) makes a whooshing noise under acceleration and is a lot less powerful than before. A full tank of ultimate again, and each trip around the hour mark, loss of power...switch off and its alright. Accept the last trip where the stop, ignition off 5mins, doesn't work. Now needs 20 mins or so.

No other warning lights or raise in temperature.

Trip plans are on hold until I can get her running as before and done all recommended to not have further issues. I have read about this Puma issue, about bacteria in the tank, water in the fuel. Need to steam wash the tank, change all fuel lines, fuel pump, filer, injectors etc. Including a remap again.

Before I run down this expensive path, can anyone advise on the best course of action.

I haven't changed the fuel filter or any other parts as yet.

Many thanks in advance, Ken & Sanna

Sorry for long post...
Post #362657 6th Oct 2014 4:50pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
no fuel pump in the tank of a tdci

did the rac take the filter off and drain it out ..make sure the filter is on propley easy to miss the last little twist of the filter in the housing , cover off and give it a twist by hand , sometimes they are bit tight on last bit
Post #362658 6th Oct 2014 4:56pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
CLCraig



Member Since: 05 Aug 2014
Location: Somerset
Posts: 104

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Stornoway Grey
As a precaution I would change the fuel filter
Post #362665 6th Oct 2014 5:21pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
would have thought rac would have changed it
Post #362671 6th Oct 2014 5:39pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
just re read post , whooshing noise possible intercooler hose
Post #362674 6th Oct 2014 5:41pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Lou Sparts



Member Since: 15 Apr 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 1501

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Whooshing under acceleration would make me think of air leaks on the inlet,possibly loose inter cooler hose or similar.

Definitely change the fuel filter as the cost is minimal and is something to eliminate.. 2005 Td5 90 XS

Steve
Post #362675 6th Oct 2014 5:41pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello 90_ken

Sorry to here your story. I know you probably know this but if you put Petrol (any amount really) in a Diesel then don't run it...ever. You can possibly get away with this scenario reversed, and no doubt some will say they did what you did and got away with it, but it's too risky really.

Also most hand drain pumps wont fully drain the tank. They can look like they have but there will still be fuel in there and the only true way to remove all traces is to remove the tank, and use a cloth to mop up the last amount of fuel before, either cleaning the tank or rinsing it out with Diesel. The Defender really should have a drain plug, and it's an indictment of the wrong approach by LR to a simple 'must have feature list' that it doesn't.

Removing the tank (initially) was a bug@er of a job on my 90, (a 2.4 tdci 2010), when achieved even then with all pipes removed and the tank fully inverted, 1/2 a cup full of fuel stayed in the tank.

All that said munch90 could be right, and it's worth checking the fuel filter is correctly engaged and is also primed (full of Diesel) before it's installed. Even then the system could need priming, but by the sounds of it, you have run and refilled a number of times now, so something still isn't right.

The next thing to check is the Fuel Pump as this is first bit of kit 'inline' for damage as the wrong juice heads towards the engine. Hopefully if the Fuel Filter is ok the 'damage' could be limited to the Fuel Pump, trial and elimination I would say rather than going for your full list all at once...

The RAC man should (and probably did) know the advice on their web site...

http://www.rac.co.uk/breakdown-cover/wrong...diesel-car

Hope you get a quick fix. If your interested, this was my long winded route to fixing a fuel leak on mine
but the relevant bit is the removal of the Fuel Tank (which I still think you don't now need to do).

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic25866.html

Good Luck. SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html


Last edited by X4SKP on 8th Oct 2014 4:10pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #362679 6th Oct 2014 6:01pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
if the filter is filled with diesel and it starts and keeps running air will clear without priming , but sometimes it will take a run of couple miles to completey clear , they sometimes wont clear just sitting ticking over

if its down to fuel then loose filter loose pipe etc would be my guess

whoosing guessing air leak loose pipe intercooler hose

damage caused by petrol in diesel very very unlikely if the amount you stated in your post is correct
Post #362682 6th Oct 2014 6:11pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
NinetyTD4



Member Since: 22 Apr 2011
Location: North
Posts: 397

Wales 2012 Defender 90 Other SW Keswick Green
Just go on and flush more nice diesel through the system. If it was only a couple of liters, nothing should be in danger, but it could take quite a while until all petrol is out of the system - simply burn it. Never forget: cars have owner, Landrover have field service personnel.
Post #362876 7th Oct 2014 2:35pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
90_ken



Member Since: 03 Oct 2014
Location: St albans
Posts: 8

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
Thank you all for your advice.

Just to clarify what the RAC man did;

Drained the tank via motorised pump, we both came to the decision that is was empty as we were going to get...shucking air and storage tank stated 70 litres and land fuel gauge empty.

He then put in 20 litres of diesel and turned the land over, failing to start, serval times. Then use a hand pump bleed tool via the fuel drain off. After serval more attempts turning land over it started and ran well. He then added a diesel treatment and I then went and filled the tank up with ultimate and a diesel fuel jet cleaner.

Have checked intercooler hose and one end did indeed have a lose clip. the fuel filter was tight and no other lose hoses could be found.

Landy still whooshes under acceleration and definitely sounds like it is coming from the opposite side to the inter cooler.

Could running the fuel pump dry cause damage when not lubicated by diesel?

With the edu adjusting the running according to its senses for best performance, should I have it reset?

Further help before removing the tank and cleaning, changing the fuel pump and filter would be very appreciated.

Ken
Post #362991 7th Oct 2014 8:41pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
90_ken



Member Since: 03 Oct 2014
Location: St albans
Posts: 8

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
X4SKP wrote:
Hello 90_ken

Sorry to here your story. I know you probably know this but if you put Petrol (any amount really) in a Diesel then don't run it...ever. You can possibly get away with this scenario reversed, and no doubt some will say they did what you did and got away with it, but it's too risky really.

Also most hand drain pumps wont fully drain the tank. They can look like they have but there will still be fuel in there and the only true way to remove all traces is to remove the tank, and use a cloth to mop up the last amount of fuel before, either cleaning the tank or rinsing it out with Diesel. The Defender really should have a drain plug, and it's an indictment of the wrong approach by LR to a simple 'must have feature list' that it doesn't.

Removing the tank (initially) was a bug@er of a job on my 90, (a 2.4 tdci 2010), when achieved even then with all pipes removed and the tank fully inverted, 1/2 a cup full of fuel stayed in the tank.

All that said munch90 could be right, and it's worth checking the fuel filter is correctly engaged and is also primed (full of Diesel) before it's installed. Even then the system could need priming, but by the sounds of it, you have run and refilled a number of times now, so something still isn't right.

The next thing to check is the Fuel Pump as this is first bit of kit 'inline' for damage as the wrong juice heads towards the engine. The Fuel Pump is set back from the engine on the side of the Chassis, hopefully if the Fuel Filter is ok the 'damage' could be limited to the Fuel Pump, trial and elimination I would say rather than going for your full list all at once...

The RAC man should (and probably did) know the advice on their web site...

http://www.rac.co.uk/breakdown-cover/wrong...diesel-car

Hope you get a quick fix. If your interested, this was my long winded route to fixing a fuel leak on mine
but the relevant bit is the removal of the Fuel Tank (which I still think you don't now need to do).

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic25866.html

Good Luck.


May well follow your advice. Thanks

Ken
Post #362992 7th Oct 2014 8:42pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
bcp



Member Since: 01 Aug 2012
Location: East of Scotland
Posts: 93

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Sounds like when my intercooler hose had a hole. Whooshing noise from about 1800 revs, then power loss.
Post #362997 7th Oct 2014 8:54pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
quote " The Fuel Pump is set back from the engine on the side of the Chassis "

there is no electric fuel pump in the tank or anywhere on a tdci , only pump is the high pressure pump run by the timing chain and bolted to the engine

there is a good chance your problem is not fuel related
Post #362998 7th Oct 2014 8:55pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
NinetyTD4



Member Since: 22 Apr 2011
Location: North
Posts: 397

Wales 2012 Defender 90 Other SW Keswick Green
@munch90: Please be precise - there is no extra fuel pump standard in the 2.4 TDCi PUMA.
So the statement is fine for this particular case, but.

The current 2.2 PUMA does have one and due to it a slighty smaller tank. Never forget: cars have owner, Landrover have field service personnel.
Post #363086 8th Oct 2014 11:34am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17450

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
90_ken wrote:
Thank you all for your advice.

Just to clarify what the RAC man did;

Drained the tank via motorised pump, we both came to the decision that is was empty as we were going to get...shucking air and storage tank stated 70 litres and land fuel gauge empty.


Even if he stuck the pump pick-up down the filler, this won't empty the tank completely. The only way to empty the tank completely is to remove it from the vehicle and invert it. It is likely that you had up to a gallon left in the tank, including of course any sludge, grot, and diesel-bug slime that may be in the bottom.

90_ken wrote:
He then put in 20 litres of diesel and turned the land over, failing to start, serval times. Then use a hand pump bleed tool via the fuel drain off.


What do you mean by "the fuel drain off"? Do you mean the moisture drain on the filter, or do you mean the bleed valve on the fuel line leading into the combined LP/HP fuel pump (this valve is located just above the back of the inlet manifold)?

90_ken wrote:
After serval more attempts turning land over it started and ran well. He then added a diesel treatment and I then went and filled the tank up with ultimate and a diesel fuel jet cleaner.

Have checked intercooler hose and one end did indeed have a lose clip. the fuel filter was tight and no other lose hoses could be found.

Landy still whooshes under acceleration and definitely sounds like it is coming from the opposite side to the inter cooler.


It's not clear what you mean by "the other side to the intercooler" since the intercooler runs across the vehicle! Either pipe can fail, but the one most likely to leak is the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler which runs just above the steering box. This is a classic problem, since if it isn't fitted exactly right it will rest on the steering mechanism or rub the air filter bracket and wear through, giving the "whoosh" noise similar to that you describe. If it is holed by the steering, the damage will be on the bottom of the pipe and very, very difficult to see with the pipe on the vehicle, although you may be able to feel it.

90_ken wrote:
Could running the fuel pump dry cause damage when not lubicated by diesel?


Running with either dirty fuel or after a misfuel is highly likely to damage the Volume Control Valve, which is part of the combined fuel pump located on the front nearside of the engine. This valve regulates the flow of fuel entering the HP stage from the LP stage, and is fragile. If it is on the blink, you will get rough running, erratic idle, poor pick up (like a flat spot), and a range of other unpredictable symptoms. It is quite possible that there will be no DTCs logged however (you may get faults related to the HP common rail, but the absence of faults doesn't by any means indicate that the VCV is not faulty - it usually doesn't case DTCs).

90_ken wrote:
With the edu adjusting the running according to its senses for best performance, should I have it reset?


No.

90_ken wrote:
Further help before removing the tank and cleaning, changing the fuel pump and filter would be very appreciated.

Ken


Removing the tank is not technically difficult but can be time consuming depending on towing gear, ARB, etc, and I haven't done it on a 90 (only my 110 a few times). Changing the filter is easy, but as posted here by others, fill the new filter with fuel before fitting it. If you can, drain some fuel out of the old filter into a glass jar and inspect it for water, sludge, or cloudiness. It is not easy to see why misfueling would case this but it may have stirred up sludge in the tank.

The fuel pump on a 2.4 is a hugely expensive unit, mechanically driven, and attached to the engine adjacent to the front of the inlet manifold. It is unlikely (but not impossible) that you have damaged it, and you certainly don't want to replace it if you don't have to. Similarly for the injectors. Damage is possible, but unlikely given the relatively small amount of petrol you ran through it.

The VCV is replaceable seperately from the pump itself, and costs about £100. If you are suffereing from irregular running with no other symptoms and no DTCs, I suggest changing it. Note however that a faulty VCV won't cause a "whooshing" noise - at least I cannot imagine any way in which it could - so I asuspect that you may have a non-fuel-related coincident fault.

If I were you, I would focus on the "whoosh" and check the intercooler pipes very thoroughly, then check for leaks between the exhaust manifold and the cylinder head (on my '07 the front branch of the manifold loosens itself about once a year and needs retightening), check for leakage also between the exhaust manifold and the turbo flange. It is likely that one of these is the source of you noise.

If you do end up removing the tank, whilst it is out take out the pick-up assembly and clean it thoroughly, and also mop the inside of the tank through the hole that the pick-up fits into. The hole is big enough to get your arm in, and this is the only way to get the tank really clean.
Post #363101 8th Oct 2014 1:42pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 2 12>
All times are GMT

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DEFENDER2.NET RSS Feed - All Forums