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Mazzaman32

Member Since: 24 Apr 2014
Location: Kent
Posts: 20

2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver

Fitting a double din stereo...some key steps to help

Hi,

This is my first ever post so apologies for the lack of 'proper' terminology regarding all things Defender.

After driving new Mercs for the last 10 yrs it was finally time to do what my heart, not my head, wanted - get a Defender. No looking back.

Like us all, the bug has got to me and I've started to play around. Whilst I don't miss mercs, I do miss knowing where to go when visiting new places thus a SAT NAV option was required.

The solution I preferred was an Alpine unit (with DAB/SAT NAV/BLUETOOTH etc). The point of my post is not to start a debate about what's better e.g. stick on window SAT NAV / motorised double din unit etc. This is purely to to let others know who are interested in doing this - you can, it's pretty straight forward, have faith! 4hrs for fitting....just because it requires some love and care.

Key tools/supplies required are:

1. standard radio removal tool
2. hex set
3. wire clippers / wire connectors (the length of some of the wires MAY need increasing) / wire
4. New blade in a Stanley knife or a new and fine hand saw
5. New fascia kit (including the side panel to mount some of the switches)
6. Double din unit
7. Care and attention
8. A separate radio playing to get you through the process
9. Your loving partner to be out so she/he isn't asking you 'what's taking so long?'

Obviously happy to go into more detail, but key steps are....

1. Remove the centre dash fascia. 2 x screws (on display) and I found leveraging the clock area and the middle area alternatively worked a treat. Start to unplug the dash buttons from the rear and label as you go along.

2. With the dash removed you should be left with a nice hole and all wires labelled. Now mask up the area to the right (or left for LHD) as this is what you need to cut out in order to re position some of the existing buttons. I drew around the new panel on a piece of card then cut out 3-5mm inside the line - just to be safe - as it's obviously easier to cut more away from the existing dash vs trying to fill a hole that's too big.

Click image to enlarge

3. Now remove the existing switches from the old panel by pushing them out from the back. The nut from the light leveling switch will need to be removed.

4. Turn the old fascia around and cut away (very carefully) the transparent heating/light indicator. It's held on by glue so take a Stanley and gently scrape the old glue away - along with a small amount of force. The thing to remember here is that you don't want to scratch the top - keep checking by turning the fascia around and looking from the front. Fear not if you do scratch it - just fill the scratch with a permanent marker.

5. Now it's time to cut off the clock and top vents. Using either a Stanley (i did) or fine hand saw cut where the bottom of the vents/clock meet the rest of the fascia. It doesn't need to be 100% perfect as you don't really see the join when it's put back together - but worth taking your time over anyway.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

6. You now need to turn the clock over and cut away the bottom so it won't obstruct the new double din - it was nice finding this out after fixing all the wires back to the new fascia and wondering why the radio wouldn't go in.

Click image to enlarge

7. Now start to fix the old switches into the new fascia - you'll now have to decide which switches you want re positioned to the left/right of the new fascia. Personally I chose to keep the heated seats and hazards at the top. At this point you should also glue the transparent light/heater indicators to the back of the new fascia.

Click image to enlarge

8. Next fit the new brackets which came with your new double din unit - worth checking now if the new unit fits ok.

Click image to enlarge

9. Now back to the main dash.....you've masked the area....you've drawn around a template...now start cutting (with confidence). I'm sure you'll have your own method but I chose to drill around the template I created, then cut the rest out with a Stanley knife to give a smoother finish. Keep checking and offering the new panel up to the hole so you know how close your getting to the exact fit using the knife or a file.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

10. No further pics for this as it's pretty straight forward; extend the switches you want to the right/left of the double din unit using new wire and clip connectors. Attach all the switches (you'll need to offer the new fascia up close to the dash in order for the wires to reach) and (if needed at this stage) fix the new double din unit in place before re attaching the new fascia. Some units can be fitted after the new dash is in place - check before!

11. New unit in place and all switches checked.

I also fitted a mic/DAB aerial/rear camera etc at the same time but thought it would be worth sharing the basic
procedure with you...considering how much I've already learnt from others on the forum!

Worth noting...I upgraded the original speakers first with 4" K2 Focals all round....no difference in sound quality (just for those of you who maybe thinking of this route). Then upgraded the headunit.....fantastic difference. Then added the sub (Alpine on the back of the cubby)...incredible difference. I know there are far better/greater set ups that I've seen on the forum - it won't win sound shows but it's as good as I wanted.

Hope it helps someone out there.

19th Aug 2014 2:16pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20454

Looks very neat, well done.

I'd go double DIN too one day but not a priority really to me. I'm running a 7" flip out right now.
Works just as well but not quite as neat and factory looking.

19th Aug 2014 3:12pm

AndrewS

Member Since: 10 Apr 2007
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3708

2013 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 SW Rimini Red

Nice one, well done

I am just about to tackle this job in the 130 so this is a very timely post

19th Aug 2014 3:37pm

Go Beyond

Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6678

Excellent write up

For those that don't want to cut their dash, we offer a cubby that will accommodate the switches that have to be relocated

[URL=]

Click image to enlarge[/URL]

We also have a stock of 'take off' centre dash panels if you want to retain your original to refit at some time

[URL=]

Click image to enlarge[/URL]

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

19th Aug 2014 3:48pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20454

How much are they Matt?

19th Aug 2014 3:53pm

Go Beyond

Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6678

Prices here Steve - http://www.farrowsclassics.co.uk/fcx-LEATHER-for-DEFENDER.html

19th Aug 2014 3:54pm

Mazzaman32

Member Since: 24 Apr 2014
Location: Kent
Posts: 20

hmmm, how do I now go about filling the dash so I can get that great looking cubby

will be in touch re the cubby (not with the switch cut outs) as I'm fed up driving with my left shoulder 4" lower than my right

19th Aug 2014 4:44pm

Go Beyond

Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6678

Thank you

19th Aug 2014 5:07pm

nicks

Member Since: 21 Aug 2008
Location: south coast
Posts: 469

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Alaska White

how do you order just the padded cubby box lid, its shown with description and price but no buy it button.

20th Aug 2014 3:21pm

Go Beyond

Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6678

Hi Nick,

The 'Add to cart' button is underneath the item in the main 'bulk' of products - between the column shroud and gear levers

http://www.farrowsclassics.co.uk/fcx-LEATHER-for-DEFENDER.html

20th Aug 2014 3:25pm

nicks

Member Since: 21 Aug 2008
Location: south coast
Posts: 469

perfect, found it thanks.

20th Aug 2014 3:28pm

kalith29

Member Since: 18 Jul 2009
Location: Sri Lanka
Posts: 36

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black

Hi

Is the top old panel & bottom new panel joined back together? Or kept separate?

22nd Aug 2014 6:32pm

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