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souster4



Member Since: 11 May 2014
Location: West midlands
Posts: 153

United Kingdom 
Coolant flush.. Help
Hi

I have a 300tdi 1995 that appears to be needing a well overdue coolant flush. The coolant is quite rusty and doesnt contain enough anti freeze. I have no cooling issues what so over though. My heater is very poor though i must add, so wondering if a coolant flush will help?!

I want to replace the coolant and flush out the system. What is the best way of doing this? I have searched but nothing concrete or reassuring popped up so im abit unsure about tackling the job.

Do i need a fan spanner if i remove the radiator? Or what other alternatives of flushing are there.

Thanks in advance
Post #346678 21st Jul 2014 9:30am
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grumpy old git



Member Since: 16 Nov 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 153

United Kingdom 
i did ours just before last winter using the Holts Rad Flush kit. One part goes in to descale and clean, the other neutrailises this. During the flushing phases I gave it a good blast with the hose, especailly the heater then filled it with 50% distilled water. I didn't remove the fan or the rad, all flushed in situ. After a new stat even though the old one was fine the heater is much better now.
Post #346707 21st Jul 2014 11:58am
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souster4



Member Since: 11 May 2014
Location: West midlands
Posts: 153

United Kingdom 
Thanks grumpy old git very helpfull.

Did you remove top and bottom rad hoses? And flush through
Same with the heater hoses?

What about the drain plug on the block?

And I think I'll use the holts also.

Then how did you go about re filling the system? Did you bleed it?

Sorry for all the questions
Post #346726 21st Jul 2014 2:17pm
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grumpy old git



Member Since: 16 Nov 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 153

United Kingdom 
No problem Very Happy

Did you remove top and bottom rad hoses? And flush through
Same with the heater hoses?


I removed the top / bottom hoses and flushed though. Took the top plug out of the rad and stat housing and gave it a good blast with the hose in as many directions as possible. I undid the heater hoses from the rail and flushed in both directions.

What about the drain plug on the block?
I didn't remove this, I figured that enough water was going in all directions that it should shift most of the old coolant. I was worried about it shearing to be honest as I have no idea when it was last removed.

And I think I'll use the holts also.

There is a fill / run / flush to be done with both parts so you can be sure most of the old coolant is out or at least so diluted not to be a problem.

Then how did you go about re filling the system? Did you bleed it?

I refilled the rad though the top plug until it was full, them moved onto the stat housing until it overflowed. I put the full 5L of concentrate in first, then topped up with distilled water. The heater was on full. This was roughly up to the seam in the header tank. Gave it a run until the temperature was up to normal then checked levels. The heater was actually hot so I must have shifted a bit of crud!

Sorry for all the questions

It might be worth you getting a pair of the brass rad plugs, part number ERR4686B , O rings ERR4685
Post #346762 21st Jul 2014 5:42pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8155

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
just dont be too ham fisted with the brass plugs, the thermostat housing thread is easy to mangle. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #346814 21st Jul 2014 7:52pm
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