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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769   
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If the pumps making a noise like that it could be letting air into the system. I'd try new injector seals and washers first (only fit genuine) then a new fuel filter (again genuine) also check around the FPR for leaks and maybe replace for peace of mind before going for a fuel pump as it's a big job and they cost a fortune.
Ray |
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3rd Jul 2014 8:07am |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663  
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I was planning an injector seal and FPR change anyway as it's very gooey around there. Just the FPR is another 100 odd notes for genuine
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All I can say is the previous owner got rid at the right time ... though the biggest problem was the fact I dont think it was ever looked after properly! Was sat around for the last few years. Now it's in daily use ... all the probably small niggles before are now becoming more apparent. |
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3rd Jul 2014 8:36am |
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| ade666 Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: crewe Posts: 50 
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I had the same issue with my dc. Changed the fuel pump for a new genuine one and it was fine for 2 days then the same problem whining pump andbstarting probs. Changed the injector seals, again with genuine parts and all sorted. Mine even seems to be a better drive now so i guess they were leaking for a while 110 double cab in belize green.
Few little mods here and there 300 tdi disco |
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3rd Jul 2014 9:28am |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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Are the FPR 're-build' kits any good?
Or best just to go for whole new unit? Just seem to be almost gathering enough 'old' bits to build another defender at this rate! |
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3rd Jul 2014 11:11am |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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Also got some OEM Injector seals and washer on their way. Always intended to do it anyway, so may as well now. Nice 'cheap' fix, should it work!
Got bags of 300TDi ones and could do those in about 3 minutes ... TD5 just isn't quite as 'easy'! |
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3rd Jul 2014 11:13am |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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Update ...
Changed the fuel filter housing ... definitely needed doing, but didn't help. Changed FPR ... again, was leaking, but didn't solve it. Changed injector seals ... Pumps stopped squealing and gone back to it's gentle humm and it now starts on the button again! So it seems the seals were causing the issues! I wouldn't be surprised if the pump goes at some point as it's been working overtime lately but we shall see! Think my green main feed line to the FPR is also leaking slightly, but just keeping an eye on that! So seems that before blowing the £280 on a pump, it's always worth giving the seals a shot! I do get a bit of white smoke now which I need to suss out! |
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16th Jul 2014 8:05am |
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| appaloosadude Member Since: 17 Oct 2012 Location: Buckinghamshire Posts: 630 
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Did you do the injector seals yourself? I have nearly all the same symptoms as you...
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16th Jul 2014 8:25pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769
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As I said earlier, always try the seals and washers first because the pumps are rather expensive. Glad it's sorted
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16th Jul 2014 8:28pm |
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| PCA42 Member Since: 15 Jun 2014 Location: Church Stretton Posts: 468 
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Had exactly the same symptoms on my 90, and it was also the injector seals. So a +1 for that fault fix
Pete
2010 Discovery 4 GS TDV6 1972 Series III 88" 2.25P |
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16th Jul 2014 10:14pm |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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apaloosadude, yes, did the washers and seals meself. Not to bad a job, just time consuming and took to a bit of time to clarify the injector settings.
When it says to bottom them out, then back a turn. It's all the way down! Not just to where it goes from completely loose to getting the first sign of metal to metal. You have to wind them all the way down to where there's no more movement in the spring, then back a turn! Obviously with the cam lobe at max lift (opposite to how I do me motorbike tappets). Also have the proper injector puller. Makes it nice and easy to pull out (and it's perfectly straight!), but an arse to get the injectors out of the tool lol  ... Might just be because its new and doesn't have the usual workshop wear! |
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17th Jul 2014 8:00am |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2225 
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Same fix worked on mine a few months back. Easy job (unlike sealing the rocker cover back up after!). I found the tip of using a 5mm allen key to 'pry' the injectors out was the perfect tool. Take the time to carefully clean the injector seats though.
Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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17th Jul 2014 8:19am |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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I'm sure the pry bar method works as plenty of people have been successful!
Mine though did require a good few clouts with the tool to remove! Wouldn't of liked to of done it using a pry'ing force! To be fair they were the originals @ 92,000, so whether that might be the case I dont know, but took a bit of force to get each out! Another tip is also to do the clamps up in 2 stages. I did around 28Nm on first torque, went for a brew, then came back and did 32-34Nm. Enough to get another nip up. So settle the washers down and leave them, then just add a dab more compression. Works a treat. As for cleaning, I did some thinners on a rag on the end of an extension and span it in my hands. I did however wonder if something like a dremel polishing end could work dipped in thinners (dont run it in a dremel), or even a baby bottle brush? To clean the injector nozzles, again, some thinners on a toothbrush or nylon cleaning brush (not a wire brush!) cleaned them up beautifully for me! |
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17th Jul 2014 8:57am |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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Rocker cover was fine for me, but I do have about 3 or 4 new rocker cover gaskets sat in me shed, so used a fresh one so perhaps that's why!
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17th Jul 2014 8:57am |
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| appaloosadude Member Since: 17 Oct 2012 Location: Buckinghamshire Posts: 630
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Taazz, did you use all the specific tools? (i.e. cam shaft timing pin, slide hammer etc)
I think I've got this. I've read the manual, and I've read the various musings on the net. The bit I can't quite get is where you remove the rocker shaft to pull the injectors, then, rotate the engine. The rocker shaft operates the [IMG]https://s3-eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/i.hubnuts.uk/xpb/04/04292be408f4a4da9b1a695fba632d19508af73fa875eb22f4f7219ca8d0a2a2.jpg~original[/IMG] Also, where you mention about doing the injector settings fully tightened and then back one turn, to what does that refer? is that the spring on the injector itself? Or is it how you adjust the rocker foot onto the back of the injector? Please bear with me, I've never don't anything common rail to this depth, it's all a little new to me. Also, I don't suppose there is anyone around Buckinghamshire that has the injector removal tool they'd lend me? I'd pay to use it, just can't justify spending £100+ for one job. Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  |
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18th Jul 2014 10:55am |
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