 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear ARB bolt sheared - help ! |
 
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| bob neville Member Since: 30 Apr 2009 Location: Marbella Posts: 3248   
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Noticed this morning that one of the rear ARB bolts on the TD5 has sheared off in the captive nut. Looking at the bit of bolt that was hanging in the bracket it must have been like it for some considerable time.
It is the bolt closest to the diff so very little room to work from above due to the chassis, in fact very little access from anywhere. I have tried drilling it out, brand new drill bits, and after an hour worked out it would take days to remove 
Next came a big hammer and drift to try and persuade the captive nut to let go. Failed ! I then tried to get something on the top of the sheared bolt but no luck as there is so little room. Last attempt before the rain started was a small cutting disk on a Dremel, it just fitted through one of the gaps. It made some progress on the captive nut but again it will not cut the whole thing off due to lack of room. Any ideas about what I should try next ? Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !! 2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold 2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold 2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member 2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days ! |
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26th Jun 2014 1:09pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5873  
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I think it was on Gold Rush they had similar
From memory, he snapped the bolt and then swore...So he drilled out a hole in the bolt and then welded a nut to the end (he might have squirted some plusgas in there) The heat traveled the hole and helped to get the bolt out. Cutting fluid, cobalt drill bits http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool...230/p68884 and go slow and build up in sizes. It took me many a night drilling out a stuck, rusted and sheared off bolt. A bit at a time. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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26th Jun 2014 2:49pm |
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| bob neville Member Since: 30 Apr 2009 Location: Marbella Posts: 3248
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Thanks , I think, John
Drilling out is the only option by the looks of it. The other side has been replaced by a nut and bolt so that must have gone at some stage. I will get some cobalt drills tomorrow and get the rear up on stands so I have some room to work. If I had access to a lift it would be a lot easier. Failing that a have a very friendly small garage behind my office and I am sure they will sort it for some beer tokens. Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !! 2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold 2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold 2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member 2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days ! |
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26th Jun 2014 6:38pm |
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| johnszs Member Since: 16 Aug 2010 Location: Hereford Posts: 459 
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Mine did that last year it took about an hour ofdrilling and then cleaning it out with a suitable tap 2004 TD5 Defender 90 xs station wagon
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27th Jun 2014 6:35am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17527 
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A photo might help stimulate ideas!
Can you cut the bracket off the axle and weld a new one on? |
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27th Jun 2014 8:36am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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Using a cordless drill with a variable clutch is an excellent idea shearing or snapping off a cobalt in the hole and you're in a whole new World of Pain.
Easy outs can be good if you have sufficient access. http://www.screwfix.com/p/stud-extractor-s...wgodlh0ALw If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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27th Jun 2014 12:07pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5873
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@K9f, I have BTDT...Snapped Cobalt bits before and its a PITA to extract them 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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27th Jun 2014 12:11pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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I brought one of the snap on mini ducter flameless heat tool
good for rusty bolts especially where you don't want a flame (as name suggests ) you wrap a wire coil round the bolt/nut or whatever and switch on , within a minute its red hot few videos on youtube about them |
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28th Jun 2014 10:32am |
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| bob neville Member Since: 30 Apr 2009 Location: Marbella Posts: 3248
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Well it's sorted
Cobalt drills and cooling/cutting fluid - hardly made an impression on it after half an hour. Removing the bracket was not an option as it is actually part of the chassis and not attached to the axle. Went back to the Dremel with a small diamond grinding disc. I managed to get half the captive nut ground off and reached the sheared bolt. Cold chisel and club hammer came next. Half a dozen good smacks and still it would not move. Repositioned the chisel but it only had a small contact area with the nut so I gave it a gentle tap and the the captive nut plus sheared bolt flew off ! New nut and bolt fitted and test driven - no more clunks from the back now
Thanks for all the ideas. Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !! 2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold 2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold 2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member 2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days ! |
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29th Jun 2014 5:06pm |
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