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RED-DOT



Member Since: 29 Jun 2009
Location: stirling
Posts: 2363

Scotland 
Bio diesel sludge.
My Puma fuel filter was absolutely full of a black crud and talking about it with a local expert he said it is a bi product of the bio diesel in road fuels used today. My question is has anyone fitted a pre filter able to sift this harmful filter choker out? I have decided to change my fuel filter twice a year. 2008 RS4 gone, 123d M Sport, and a Puma 90 XS..
Post #340035 23rd Jun 2014 9:37am
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
I know mine's a Td5 but the sludge caused me big problems with my pump being "choked" with the stuff. When I took the pump out it looked as if it had just come out of the sump of an old tractor. It allmost makes you think that with an intank pump we will start to need to filter the diesel before it gets in the tank in the first place Shocked
Post #340037 23rd Jun 2014 9:50am
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jimbob7



Member Since: 06 Jul 2013
Location: uk
Posts: 2055

You can buy an additive (used extensively in the marine industry) to kill the bacteria in the tank.If your getting it regular maybe look at changing fuel supplier or moving the tank breather to somewhere drier,changing the filter twice a year suggests an underlying problem,just a thort. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
Post #340038 23rd Jun 2014 9:50am
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
Do the premium fuels suffer this problem? If not, maybe the few extra pence per liter is worth it.
Post #340043 23rd Jun 2014 10:11am
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
the bacteria grows on the surface of water in tank
yes you can buy a biocide to kill it off
also warm diesel doesn't help makes it grow better
it looks like brown plasticine you can roll it up in a ball like plasticine
also its acidic and eats steel (that's why tanks are plastic now )

I had some diesel stored in 45 steel drums , they were new drums and undercover and it ate through bottom in only a few months
Post #340050 23rd Jun 2014 10:42am
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110 John



Member Since: 11 Jan 2014
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 158

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
Trouble is with Bio it degrades quickly and drops water out to where bugs grow thick and fast and hence blocked filters. normal diesel also does this after a space of time Ships / Oil rigs suffer badly with it and go through Biociding doses to kill the bugs and centrifuging to remove the water and particles or crap. you can buy diesel additives soley for killing the bugs another thing to consider is these bugs devour the diesel
Post #340060 23rd Jun 2014 11:22am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17352

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I had severe microbial problems last year (there's a thread somewhere here about it).

The sludge grows in the tank, and once you have it you can only get rid of it by dropping the tank and manually cleaning it, flushing the fuel lines, and changing the filter. If you are infected it is likely that you'll need to fit a new Volume Control Valve to the fuel pump as well, since they are very easily damaged by moisture 9and the sludge indicates moisture). A faulty VCV will cause awful running and dirvability issues but may well not produce fault codes.

The cause of the sludge is a microbe which can breed under ideal conditions at a rate which means a single microbe could produce enough to completely fill your tank in 24 hours! Fortunately conditions in your tank aren't ideal, but unfortunately they're not bad either. The microbes feed on the oxygen in moisture in the tank or in the fuel, and form the black sludge. There are biocide additives you can put in the tank which kill them and break them down to a size where the microbe cadavers will pass through the syste, and be burned, but these are better at prevention than cure.

The best way to avoid the probelm is to avoid cheap fuels or badly stored fuels, but decent diesel from outlets which shift a lot of fuel (fuel distributors tend to add fungicide anyway). Avoid fuel from cans like the plague if you can, especially if it has been stored for more than a couple of weeks (consider adding biocide if you have to use that old jerrycan of diesel).

Also, on a 2008 Defender check where the outlet of the tank breather is. The early Pumas had a brilliant masterstroke of design and routed the breather into the R/N/S wheel area, either just in front of or just behind the mud shield that protects the R/N/S lights. In other words it gets all the road muck thown onto it, and if behind the shield it lives in a world of wet filth! it is almost guaranteed that you'll get a microbial infection with this arrangement, and I wouldn't mind betting that your breather ipie is full of sludge in this case, certainly mine was.

If you reroute the breather (mine is now in the rear body by the light units), clean the tank, and are sensible with you fuel choice you will probably have no further trouble. Oh, the less time the fuel is in the tank, the better too, and the less air space in the tank the better.
Post #340080 23rd Jun 2014 12:27pm
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
mk1collector wrote:
Do the premium fuels suffer this problem? If not, maybe the few extra pence per liter is worth it.


Might be worth asking BP if their BP Ultimate Diesel in the UK has a percentage of biodiesel or not, I know for a fact that here in Switzerland it does not. 100% mineral diesel here. Thumbs Up
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #340165 23rd Jun 2014 5:23pm
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110 John



Member Since: 11 Jan 2014
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 158

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
I used to work for a huge industrial Biodiesel manufacturer we used to sell BP Grangemouth around 124,000L per week they added 6% to there sales fuel and called it greener fuel. Texeco at Milford haven also used to buy from us around the same amount . Any we had in storeage for a month or 2 would have to be reworked as it degraded quickly The company V Fuels went bust very quickly (12 months ) I wonder why
Post #340379 24th Jun 2014 5:47am
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piecost76



Member Since: 29 Sep 2010
Location: Nr Sevenoaks, Kent
Posts: 177

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Do a search for "Fuel Cure" or "Diesel Cure" on You Tube.

It is a product sold by Wurth that is added to the tank.

Works very well. Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?

2015 110 XS UW sadly stolen 21/11/2017
Post #340471 24th Jun 2014 2:31pm
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Schw8te



Member Since: 03 Jun 2012
Location: NRW
Posts: 27

Germany 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Santorini Black
I use the Grotamar 82 to kill the bacteria.

U find it here Grotamar 82

Cheers
Det locker bleiben
Post #340490 24th Jun 2014 4:17pm
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newhue



Member Since: 28 Apr 2014
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 351

Australia 
Red Dot, I have just been through the exercise of removing the fuel tank to check for black bacteria flakes. The filter was clogged enough to make the car idle poorly, and even stall it.
In the wash up I would change your filter every service, instead of every 35 mile as LR suggest. A filter is a lot cheaper than a volume control valve, or injectors, or fuel pump. Non of which have been affected by my scenario but I now spend 20 pond every 6000 mile.
I pulled the tank to discover not that much bacteria in there, as the filter had done it's job and caught it. I have used Fuel Doctor basically from new and that was 70 thousand mile ago, and use Caltex premium diesel.
I would buy a few filters, treat the tank and go from there. If you have idling issues after that your up for a VCV as blackwolf has suggested. They are sensitive I believe, but perhaps not as sensitive as we all fear.
Post #340661 25th Jun 2014 7:49am
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