 | Home > Td5 > It was going so well. |
 
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| ozzy57 Member Since: 14 Feb 2014 Location: Farnborough Posts: 221  
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.....until the last sodding bolt!
Jobs done, CB wired in, swr'd, all oils changed, de-EGR almost done. The last bolt, the one on the back of the exhaust manifold, decides to shear off. "Oh goody" says me, "manifold off it is then!". This is at half past eight, and I need the car tomorrow. All goes well until the last nut on the head, which promptly sheared the stud. "Deep joy" methinks "I'll just have to drill that out too!". Drill, check, star bit, check, off we go. Star bit shears off in the hole!!!!!!!!!!!! Ten minutes of kicking tools around in a foul temper later and I am now wondering what the **** I'm going to do now! It wasn't me! |
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31st May 2014 10:28pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443  
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You just go carefull if you go for a pee Ozzy
Especially with "that last nut" |
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31st May 2014 10:42pm |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6092  
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^^^^ and if you try to undo the bolt fairly quickly after welding them up, the heat from said weld quite often helps to loosen them.
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1st Jun 2014 3:18pm |
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| ozzy57 Member Since: 14 Feb 2014 Location: Farnborough Posts: 221
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I had thought of that, however it's about 2mm below the surface of the head. It wasn't me! |
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1st Jun 2014 5:03pm |
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| Fatboy Slim Member Since: 04 Feb 2008 Location: Bridgend Posts: 1006 
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Dodgy one without seeing it. The good news is the heads ally so the weld won't 'take' to it if you know what I mean so should still work. Snapped ezi-outs are a real pain in the bum, they're as hard as hell so trying to drill them out is going to be a bit of a nightmare. You'd need either some serious cobalt drills with a very slow speed and lots of pressure behind it, or, as has been done in the past, masonry drills sharpened to a metal cutting profile.
NB: You need a flipping good bench grinder stone to sharpen masonry bits and be prepared to snap a good few of them in the drilling process. Other option is to remove the head and take it to a local engineering place that does spark erosion. PS, give the broken stud a good whack with a hammer and flat faced punch before trying any removal methods: this alone can be enough to get them moving. One way or the other you'll get it out, even if you have to drill the hole out to the next size very carefully, keeping an eye on the depth and helicoil it. |
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1st Jun 2014 7:33pm |
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| ozzy57 Member Since: 14 Feb 2014 Location: Farnborough Posts: 221
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It's all buttoned up back together at the moment, and it's not blowing, so I have a sneaking suspicion it may stay bolted together with nine studs for some time. It wasn't me!
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1st Jun 2014 7:40pm |
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| kevinf Member Since: 12 Apr 2011 Location: sheffield Posts: 55
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Ran mine for about 18 months with one stud missing just got the occasional high pitch screeching noise,under really heavy acceleration,only bothered to sort it when I took the vehicle of the road for a week to do a gearbox swap,then another 2 studs sheared!
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2nd Jun 2014 6:00am |
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