 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rattling brakes in the rear |
 
|
|
|
| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610   
|
Check the securing pins and springs....search reveals you are not alone....
A few pointers perhaps..... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic7768.h...tling+pads http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic3780.h...tling+pads http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic349.ht...tling+pads Anti-rattle kit available here: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic23312....ake+rattle If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
||
23rd May 2014 10:55am |
|
| Egghead Member Since: 25 Nov 2012 Location: Surrey Posts: 255 
|
Awesome, looks like I'll have to do a bit of shopping again. Told me everything I needed to know that post, much appreciated, thanks. Surprised Land Rover don't fit as standard though?
|
||
|
23rd May 2014 11:29am |
|
| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769  
|
The link to my topic with the springs is for the front callipers. You can get a similar spring setup off a Volvo for the rear callipers but I can't remember which model
 if you ring huddersfield Landrover centre they will sell you the rear spring kit which just needs the end clipping off each spring. |
||
|
23rd May 2014 11:40am |
|
| Merlin Member Since: 30 Oct 2010 Location: Newmarket Posts: 981
|
I've just solved my rattle by putting double springs in the rear pads. I bought new springs and thought that that would solve the problem but they still rattled. So I twisted one spring inside another and fitted them, bit of resistance thought. Now I'm rattle free, first time in years.
Merlin |
||
|
27th Nov 2014 1:00pm |
|
| delab Member Since: 13 Apr 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 19 
|
I had a similar problem which was only resolved when I bled the brake fluid, rebled then rebled again. Each time we found air coming out despite the previous attempt indicating it had been bled correctly. After that the brake pad rattle disappeared completely without the need for additional springs. Another bonus was braking efficiency increased with each bleed.
|
||
|
27th Nov 2014 7:59pm |
|
| AlexSmith Member Since: 05 Sep 2013 Location: Arroio do Meio, RS Posts: 47  
|
Just sharing my experience and some thoughts...
Last week I replaced my old rear brake pads for new ones from Cobreq (model N-867, as stated at their website (http://www.cobreq.com.br/site/ref_busca.asp?cod_cobreq=N-867)). They fit perfectly and installation was plug'n'play. Also, the deadly squealing I was experiencing disappeared completely! *phew* But... When I removed the old pads, I noticed they had a metallic shim behind them, similar to the ones on the attached picture. 
They were broken, though, so I removed them. I think this is what is causing the rattle noise coming from the new pads. I could not find replacement shims anywhere. I only found the part numbers for the entire brake pads kit, containing pads, shims, pins, springs and split pins (PNs STC1601 and SFP000280). I'm thinking about building the shims myself to see if the rattle goes away, but I wonder whether this is safe... Besides that, I would also like to know why those shims have holes... And why those holes are so that the cylinder presses them partially... There must be a reason for that. 2020: Defender 110 SW 300 Tdi 2004 Alpine White 2013-2017: Defender 110 S 2.4 (Puma) 2008 Stornoway Gray 2002-2005: Defender 90 CSW 300 Tdi Dark Green |
||
|
3rd Oct 2016 11:21pm |
|
| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
|
And which way round are they installed too?
I had this discussion here recently, I'll try to dig it up... Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
||
|
4th Oct 2016 4:36am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17380 
|
Those are anti-squeal shims and will have no effect on any rattling from the pads, but they (may) stop your brakes from squealing like a stuck pig when you brake.
The cut-outs in the shim should be at the bottom when fitted since their purpose is to reduce very slightly the pressure applied to the leading edge of the friction material in the normal direction of rotation (ie when travelling forwards). In effect they provide exactly the same effect as the backing that you may find bonded to the reverse of some makes of pad, and the chamfer on the leading edge (and usually the trailing edge too, so the pads are reversible) of the friction material of the pad. |
||
|
4th Oct 2016 7:37am |
|
| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
|
Had the rattle recently, after removing anti roll bar and replacing shock bushes, I discovered t was the brakes (!).
Removed those shims and rattle has reduced to almost nothing. I'm using near new ferodo pads that have the thick/sticky section that works similar to the shim... Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
||
|
28th Oct 2016 8:52pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
