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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731   
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Evening all
So the 110 got through the TÜV (MOT) 
but then the dealer said all the brake discs and pads need replacing and quoted me 1000 quid 
I'm very careful when it comes to brakes but the vehicle is only 3 years old and has only done 25,000 miles. I can't help thinking I'm being taken for a bit of a ride. The discs don't look bad to me but I'm no expert - please can anyone give me some advice? I'm happy to do the pads myself but isn't changing the discs much more involved? Thanks for any advice, Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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2nd May 2014 7:16pm |
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| MR_JAMES Member Since: 10 Oct 2013 Location: ESSEX Posts: 248  
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Thats what dealers do. Its easy money.. when i worked at vw/audi/skoda dealerships they were always doing discs and pads.
im at 35000 miles and my discs are not yet lipped, and the pads have about 8mm friction materal left. You need to go and check yours. 1953 80" 1987 mini city e 2011 90" |
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2nd May 2014 7:43pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294
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Do the discs have wear indicators?
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2nd May 2014 7:47pm |
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| Josh K Member Since: 01 Nov 2013 Location: Herefordshire Posts: 266 
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I'm no expert about the lifespan of pads and discs but I had new pads, discs and calipers along with a MOT, replacement front swivel housing and bushes for rear shocks all for less than £550 including labour so it seems like they are taking you for a ride. Mine was through a Land Rover independent rather than a dealer. 2007 (57) Defender 90 (Sold)
Looking for another to replace it. The road less travelled.... is a muddy one! |
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2nd May 2014 7:50pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Cheers Guys
According to the quote, the labour alone is 500 quid plus they want 300 quid for "solid" discs and 180 quid for pads (I assume all OEM). He also said it might be more if the brake pistons were damaged... As I said, I would normally get the dealer to do "brake stuff" but that's simply too much for me 
So if the discs aren't too lipped or scored, they should be okay, right? If I can just do the pads myself, I will - just worried about running into trouble and being stranded. Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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2nd May 2014 8:04pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Okay, just checked all four discs. One has almost no lip and the others have no more than 1mm inside and out. All are smooth. Can't see how they need replacing yet
Have ordered pads and will try it myself. If not, all I've lost is the time
Thanks Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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2nd May 2014 8:36pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816  
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At about 50.000km, well higher than your 25.000 miles, the dealer changed my rear brake pads, but not the disks. That was 2.5 years ago. I now have 68.000 km, and at each annual service, disks and pads proved still ok.
So, unless you are braking abnormally much and hard all the time, seems very premature what they tell you there. Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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2nd May 2014 8:43pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
I replaced everything last year discs,pads,calipers.Discs and pads are oem, Delphi Lockheed front discs (pair) vented £44,pads were £17, rear discs (pair) solid £47,pads £15 all +vat @20%.
Just to give you an idea of stealer prices, I paid £89 for a NEW oem AP Lockheed front caliper,LR want £385 for the same (AP Lockheed caliper). Labour charge will be high (but not that high,lol)coz the hubs have to come off,if you have ABS they may try to rob you for a pair of stepper rings that are bolted/rusted to the internal face of the rear disc,about £300... EACH you can get them off, but you have to be patient.
Even tho the hubs come off, I would still be inclined to DIY coz no grease monkey gonna be inclined to spend half a day thoroughly cleaning and re-greasing your bearings/hubs. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
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2nd May 2014 9:08pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Thanks. I'll just change the pads for now then
Looking at the manual, there are 2 parts I want to check: The first just says clean exposed parts of the piston with brake fluid - is there anything else I can/should clean/lubricate at the same time? It also says I need LR caliper tool LRT-70-500 - is there a good alternative? I have a G cramp about the same size. Cheers Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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2nd May 2014 11:51pm |
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| v8bobber Member Since: 26 Aug 2012 Location: pembrokeshire Posts: 444 
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To be honest if the vehicle is a relatively new one, you should be able to push the pistons back easily enough.
I tend to put a thin piece of wood against the face of the disc and then lever against it with the biggest flat blade screwdriver I have. You might have a job getting a g clamp in there with the caliper on the hub because of the disc being in the way. I have found that a tin of aerosol brake cleaner is a good investment. With regards to the brakes and if they need replacement. Buy an ID micrometer and check the thickness of the discs against the run out figure in the manual. Perhaps it might be worth speaking to the dealer and asking them what the minimum thickness should be and what their justification would be for wanting to change them Dave |
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3rd May 2014 12:07am |
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| Phil VM2.5 Member Since: 28 Mar 2012 Location: Limelette Posts: 196  
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Hi,
Seems quality isnt as before ! On my RR, front vented disc where original with nearly 500.000km ... i changed the rear quite soon because I did run to far with the pads. At that time was not a difficult work . Today, with ABS, other way to work for the placement of the bearings, could not be as simple. Phil current : defender 110 sw 2.2 puma 2012 and 230.000km today and again my Range Rover VM2.5 engine from 1992 and 528.000km today. One ten 1988 to 1992 1987 BMW GS80 One Ten from 1984 to 1987 One Ten from 1983 to 1984 Serie 3 109 from 1980 to 1983 from 1974 Jeep CJ3B and CJ6 |
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3rd May 2014 6:15am |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
Brake/clutch cleaner for cleaning the caliper and I used Silicon grease over the pistons and back of pads,dont use copper grease as it rots the piston seals.Silicon has a higher melting point than copper grease,is rubber friendly and is more water resistant,just dont get it on the discs.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Servisol-Silicone-...B000L97ZPI Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
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3rd May 2014 7:52am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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a good make of pads will sometimes have a small sachet of the proper grease included
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3rd May 2014 7:56am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294
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I seem to remember EBC green stuff had grease with them.
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3rd May 2014 10:04am |
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