 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Shaggydogs Running Restoration |
 
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347   
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Took me about 4 hours working at a very leisurely pace with tea breaks and lunch
I'm looking forward to it too should be a nice simple job to do (cor thats jinxed it hasn't it  )
The wiring in the wing needs sorting, the Environment agency have definitely been "at it" in the past  Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197
Self confessed mileage hunter  |
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4th Jun 2015 8:31am |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347
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It was put back with original shims (as they were all still present) and the pre-load tested I just forgot to mention it in the write up
 I did have at the back of my mind the thought that I could just remove the shims to take up the slack but on withdrawing the pin I could see that there was no way that would help as it was very loose.
the pre-load was at the tighter end of the scale as I wanted to take account for the cv joint, plus if its tight it will bed in whereas if its loose it will get the wobble. It drives happily and there is no sign of wobble or tightness so I'm happy with it, will just keep an eye on it. As I said, I wouldn't do it this way again next time as its not that much more effort to take the wheel bearings and stub axle off. It was more to try out a different method of doing it! Thanks for spotting the error though! Will amend original post when I get a chance! Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197 Self confessed mileage hunter |
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4th Jun 2015 10:43am |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2706 
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Good work. I remember doing mine a few years after buying it, a fun way to spend a day!
I filled them with oil rather than grease though. |
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4th Jun 2015 4:05pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347
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Not much happening of late with mine other than drinking coolant.
She is now back on General grabber At2's (with new ones on the rear) and is much quieter for it. She seems to have a bit of a wander on but I suspect that this may be a tracking issue. Otherwise next big job is looking like a head gasket and head rebuild/inspection. I have been quoted £800 inc vat for having head removed, new gasket, pressure test on head and skim which I don't think is too bad - its not great but it was less than I was expecting. Meanwhile, a second running restoration thread may well be on the horizon  Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197
Self confessed mileage hunter |
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4th Sep 2015 12:27pm |
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| g-mack Member Since: 07 Jan 2014 Location: northumberland Posts: 1967
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£800 ouch, gotta be done though! My 109 thread
my youtube channel |
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4th Sep 2015 1:16pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347
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This thread has been a bit neglected since the webasto thread and the head rebuild thread took off a bit more.
Other than those, had a minor mishap today while following a truck. It picked up a piece of ballast or a big stone but I saw something get shot out the rear of the trucks wheels and the sound of a smack from the front end. This was the aftermath 
 Click image to enlarge What a mess. Luckily I had a whole spare unit on the shelf which has saved me some money but it did give me a bit of a shock. Amazingly the bulb was undamaged so 5 mins with a screwdriver when I got home and all was fixed! I may ask for some different ones for Christmas but I quite like the square style, it suits the age and style of my truck, does anybody know of similar style ones but with polycarbonate lenses? Other than that, she has had a 1000 mile shake down since the head went back on 3 weeks ago and all seams well. We saw her tick over to 169000 miles as we crossed into Belgum from Holland yesterday so hopefully she will be trouble free into her 200k miles! I have also got photos of the Red Bison Loom upgrade but I'm struggling to upload it as my laptop still only has half a screen Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197
Self confessed mileage hunter |
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17th Nov 2015 11:04pm |
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| Crofter Member Since: 19 Feb 2015 Location: Peterhead Posts: 169 
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Great thread, I have enjoyed reading it and learned quite a bit also.
Thanks |
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26th Nov 2015 10:04am |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347
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Thank you Crofter!
Its nice to know people are reading my ramblings and if they learn a thing or two along the way then fantastic! I should have another update coming tonight if my laptop is feeling like it wants too! All about the Red Bison Loom and some other niggely odds and sods. Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197 Self confessed mileage hunter |
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27th Nov 2015 1:02pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347
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Thank you Crofter
I'm glad people are enjoying reading my trials and tribulations. Especially if they are learning things along the way even if it is how not to do something
This was done a while ago so apologies for late posting, its been hindered by my laptop screen being broken in half which makes the viewing portion very difficult to work with! Nevermind, We shall endure! So, Red Bison Loom. What is it? Its a loom which turns the existing light switch into a switch. Sounds pointless but there is a reason. From Factory all Land Rovers are fitted with the same switch, I don't think it has changed since the 80's. When you turn your lights on, all of the load of the lights goes through the switch. This is not good because the switch isnt really man enough for the job. When you turn your lights off it litteraly breaks the contact between the 2 poles which causes a spark and heat and over time degrades your switch. This ultimately will end in your switch burning out leaving you with no lights - not what anyone needs on a winters night in the rain miles from home with the chipshop closing in 10 mins! This loom basicly takes the load off of the switch by using the imput from the existing headlight loom to switch a Relay (one per bulb) which is powerd from its own power source. This has the effect of lowering the current across the switch contacts which in turn helps protect the swtich. Very basic explenation but enough for what you need without getting too bogged down into the physics of it. So what do you get? No photo im afraid but you get a positive wire which needs to be attached to the battery, a relay holder with 2 relays in it, 2 male H4 connectors which plug into your existing loom and 2 femail connectors which plug into your bulbs and 2 ring connectors which fix to an earth on your body to earth the whole lot. Click image to enlarge First things first, strip down the front end, need to take your indicator and side light bulb holders apart and then off, and any light guards you may or may not have fitted. Click image to enlarge Next remove the headlight bowl. At this stage some of you may want to upgrade your headlight surrounds with stainless versions as your factory standard ones will rust and look like this after a few years. Click image to enlarge My 110 has in the past been fitted with different bowls. Inexplicably the plug connector is pushed through a tiny hole with a rubber grommet on it, this has to be disassembled to get through. On my one it is quite easy as the plug can be unclipped and then the wires pulled out, yours may well be different! Click image to enlarge The loom has very fancy ceramic plug, this is better because it is much better at resisting heat than plastic ones. The yellow plasiticy bit pulls off backwards and then you can gently push the tabs down on the metal connections and pull them out the back. Click image to enlarge Tada! Wires pushed though the back of the bowl. Click image to enlarge The yellow bit was then pushed back over the connector on the correct side of the bowl. Click image to enlarge Job done! then copy this over on the other side. Click image to enlarge Because reasons my 110 had the really for the spotlights mounted up in the corner of the headlight recess. This is a bit of a pain so I decided to move it. This uses the same "plug and play" style loom which the Red Bison loom uses in which it takes its signal from the existing vehicle wiring to switch a relay and dedicated power supply to turn on the lights. This is fine to work with the red bison loom. Click image to enlarge The relays are held in place with some relay holder tags I made up at work. I don't have a photo of them fitted which is annoying but will try and get one tomorrow to update. Click image to enlarge Much neater One day I would love to tidy up the wing looms with a brand new loom but that requires some fairly major surgery on pre 300tdi vehicles as it is built in with the bulkhead loom and requires a lot of stripping out to replace.
Click image to enlarge I mentioned it briefly earlier in the thread about using series style headlight surrounds. While i quite like the style of it my wings have been a bit abused through the years so it was not quite as nice as i had hoped. Click image to enlarge Bit of a comparison picture. Now that I look at it again I think I definitely prefer the standard Land Rover headlight surrounds rather than the series surrounds. Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197 Self confessed mileage hunter |
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27th Nov 2015 7:24pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347
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Latest update is definitely under the bracket of maintenance rather than modification.
I was at work the other week and had to go from one unit to the other. I was parked between the two and while walking back to the other unit. I was walking back towards my 110 on the passenger side and I thought hummm....Something doesn't look right.....what looks wrong....why does my exhaust look wrong......ah... I could see daylight through the middle of the exhaust.... Click image to enlarge As you can see, the end had completely rotted off and was being suspended happily by the mounting rubber. Luckily I wrote a emergency letter to Santa and he had one dropped off for me. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I had only changed it 2 years ago- almost to the day! Luckily its a quick and easy job Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197
Self confessed mileage hunter |
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27th Dec 2015 10:48am |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347
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After taking my heater box out to help fit the webasto it has not quite been up to what it was.
I know Tdi heaters have a notorious reputation for being terrible but my one was actually quite good! However since the fiddling around it has deteriorated. So, I checked everything upstream of the blower in case it had got blocked...nothing, so I checked downstream. Now to explain what your looking at this is the passenger side lower heater outlet removed. In the outlet is a led thing on a stick. Click image to enlarge Looking closer inside in the very back you can see the heater matrix itself. In front of that you can see a rubber seal which has not seated properly and has been pushed up into the hole and is now merrily blocking most of the airflow. What a pain. Click image to enlarge I decided it would be best to chop it out and then see how it runs. The seal is not the greatest but I would need to take quite some time in the workshop to take the wing off and re-seat it properly. Other than that I picked up a puncture 
Click image to enlarge Luckily it was in the front and I had the day before ordered 2 new front tires so I'm glad it happened in the old tires rather than the new ones. New tires fitted and tracking done. Oh and a new headlight switch was fitted this morning. Now getting used to my new commute she is settling down nicely, the webasto heater a welcome addition now the heater is working a bit better and the mornings are getting colder. Hopefully next month if funds are available I will be able to buy a new second row door as the passenger side door is now quite far past recoverable  Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197
Self confessed mileage hunter |
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16th Jan 2016 4:43pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2706
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That is the seal between the heater box and bulkhead. With a bit missing a lot of your hot air will be leaking into the engine bay, hence poor heater output.
You'll need to remove the heater box to fix it, no need to remove the wing for the job though. |
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16th Jan 2016 7:35pm |
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| Ramsay Member Since: 30 Sep 2015 Location: Moffat, Dumfries & Galloway Posts: 632 
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Can I go back to the lighting loom. Where did you attach the ring earth terminals? You made a mounting bracket for the relays where is it mounted? What route did you use for getting the cable from the near side to the off side headlight?
I have one to fit and while I understand the drawing and instructions that came with it some images and pointers will help it go more smoothly. 1995 Defender 110 CSW 1971 SIIA Lightweight |
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16th Jan 2016 9:19pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347
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Retro; Really? I refitted it with the new seal and thats why it seems to have been squished up into the wrong place. Its a massive faff with the wing still on as you cant get in to swing in properly and then to compress the seal enough to get the nuts bolts through. Do you have a different way of doing it? How do you do it? I would love to know as it was a really good heater before it got fiddled with.
Ramsay; I will go and take some pics in a bit so you can see Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197
Self confessed mileage hunter |
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17th Jan 2016 12:22pm |
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