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Razler



Member Since: 16 Nov 2013
Location: NORTHUMBERLAND
Posts: 50

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Zambezi Silver
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
Good evening all ye Defender TD5 guys and gals!

Has anyone a definitive guide to the best way to replace/repair FPR? Mines leaking!

Would like to know if its better to rebuild or replace?

If rebuild is it best is it better to re-seal only or to get the rebuild kit that contains the FPR itself, or do I just to bite the bullet and get the complete unit?

Where would people recommend getting parts from?

Cheers all Razz
Post #320678 31st Mar 2014 9:30pm
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6092

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
Mine was leaking, so I thought i'd have a stab at one of the rebuild kits off of ebay. Think it was about £5.99, it's been on for a year or 2 now and showing no signs of leaking again (yet)
Post #320715 1st Apr 2014 7:06am
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6092

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
. echo.... double post Laughing
Post #320716 1st Apr 2014 7:07am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Someone may well be along with different advice, but I only ever replace, and only ever use a genuine part.

I have done this job twice on my Disco 2 in a little over 200,000 miles (the last time was about 1000 miles ago) which I don't think is too bad.

My only complaint is that it is a really awkward job (worse on a Disco than Defender) due to the restricted access.
Post #320721 1st Apr 2014 7:24am
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Anderzander



Member Since: 08 Feb 2011
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 1000

United Kingdom 
It's definitely a job for a 1/4" drive and a few extra knuckles....
Post #320737 1st Apr 2014 8:15am
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Razler



Member Since: 16 Nov 2013
Location: NORTHUMBERLAND
Posts: 50

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Zambezi Silver
Cheers for replys!

Check with the 1/4 dive set and check with the triple jointed per finger fingers!

Because I'm tight and thinking why replace when I can repair, I'm looking at x2 options:

Rebuild kit without FPR:


Click image to enlarge


Rebuild kit with FPR


Click image to enlarge


Suppose it all comes down to if the actual FPR is leaking internally, have I answered my own question?! Confused
Post #320740 1st Apr 2014 8:49am
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Lou Sparts



Member Since: 15 Apr 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 1501

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
I replaced my FPR some while ago and found the bottom bolt has restricted access so i removed the pipe fittings from the body of the FPR and bingo it was easy to get to the bottom bolt, took about 40-45 minutes to do the whole job.

Don,t forget to do the fuel purge process before attempting to start the engine Thumbs Up

Have also purchased a couple of the kits from e bay for about £40 to use on Td5 discos at work and they seem to have worked o.k. 2005 Td5 90 XS

Steve
Post #320840 1st Apr 2014 6:45pm
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Jimb1978



Member Since: 05 Sep 2012
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 808

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black
I used the top kit and it didn't solve the problem. I replaced the whole unit with a genuine one and all is fine.

So, to save a little money I might be tempted with the bottom kit, or replace the whole lot.

I also second the above about taking the fuel pipes off, and will add that if you remove the switch too it becomes even easier to access the bolts. Also, if you buy a replacement unit it comes with new fuel pipes. However, you cannot replace the upper pipe that runs alongside the engine without first removing the manifold.....I therefore left the old pipe in place and put the new replacement pipe in stock incase there was ever a problem with the old one
Post #320844 1st Apr 2014 6:58pm
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kipperthedog



Member Since: 27 Jun 2013
Location: Down South
Posts: 403

United Kingdom 
+1 for genuine part replacement. Guy Salmon on ebay were the cheapest when I did mine.

I also removed the pipes and found this speeded the whole process up.

This is very helpful.........

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutoria...mages.html

Worst part of the process was the damage the chequer plate wing tops did to my knees!
Post #321110 2nd Apr 2014 7:19pm
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
When I did mine with a kit I went with the top one, I'm a skinflint as well. Trouble was the thing still leaked through the valve bit itself so ended up getting a complete genuine replacement FPR second hand off a newer motor for less than the price of the bottom kit. Sorted for the past 12 months. If I get a problem again I'll put a kit on the one I took out complete with valve and swop over.
Post #321122 2nd Apr 2014 7:51pm
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Razler



Member Since: 16 Nov 2013
Location: NORTHUMBERLAND
Posts: 50

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Zambezi Silver
Quote:
Don,t forget to do the fuel purge process before attempting to start the engine Thumbs Up

Don't worry I'm a well seasoned TD5 air in fuel starter after my first bleed valve problem!

After thinking about rebuilding my own I decided that the only problem would be not being able to replace the pipes for shiny ones Razz so I decided to buy and aftermarket kit:


Click image to enlarge


Normally I'm an genuine kind of guy, I thing my judgment was fuzzed after the 2nd pint of my old mans home brew! O well will await delivery then use the info gathered to-do the installation.. Will let you all know how I get on.. hopefully the aftermarket will last.. I hope!
Post #321135 2nd Apr 2014 8:29pm
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