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Mac22



Member Since: 22 Nov 2013
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 675

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 DCPU Santorini Black
Advice Please....
Hi Gang,
Checking the fluid levels and noticed some rusty bits in the engine.
So....What are they and should they be a nice burnt amber colour.... Whistle
I had to top the water up but only half a cup, no other signs of leaks..

Thanks in advance...

Mac.



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Post #314651 9th Mar 2014 11:29am
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6678

United Kingdom 
They all go rusty unfortunately, but nothing to worry about.

I'm sure I read on this forum about a way to 'refurb' - try a 'Search'
Post #314652 9th Mar 2014 11:39am
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Cold_n_Wet



Member Since: 15 Oct 2012
Location: Bergen
Posts: 247

Norway 
mine are the same, built in October, just done 1000 km with it... rusty..

Glen "Rafiki" 2007 110 STW - Rolling rebuild.
Post #314653 9th Mar 2014 11:41am
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Mac22



Member Since: 22 Nov 2013
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 675

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 DCPU Santorini Black
Cheers Guys,
Relief..... Thumbs Up
Post #314655 9th Mar 2014 11:44am
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steve E



Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Tenby
Posts: 2073

Wales 
Mine is the same also Thumbs Up
Post #314662 9th Mar 2014 12:04pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
mine are waxed
Post #314665 9th Mar 2014 12:15pm
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schuee



Member Since: 16 Jul 2012
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 378

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Mine is the same Thumbs Up
Post #314671 9th Mar 2014 1:06pm
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WelshGas



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Vale of Glamorgan
Posts: 935

Wales 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Spray with ACF50, turns them black. Well did on mine. 3 yrs later still black. Whistle LANDYWATCH

Neighbourhood Watch for Land Rover Owners

http://www.landywatch.co.uk/smf2/index.php
Post #314725 9th Mar 2014 6:01pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3347

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
All looks like cast iron so surface rust won't bother it for at least 90 years, in which time it most likely wont be a problem
Post #314858 9th Mar 2014 10:15pm
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3663

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
as per welsh gas I sprayed mine with ACF50 when new and not rusted yet and 3 years old, in fact Ive sprayed everything under the bonnet with ACF50. DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #314862 9th Mar 2014 10:19pm
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Pickles



Member Since: 26 May 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 3790

Australia 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Keswick Green
Don't know whether we can get ACF50 in Aus, would WD40 do the same job?
Pickles.
Post #314869 9th Mar 2014 10:38pm
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WelshGas



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Vale of Glamorgan
Posts: 935

Wales 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Sorry Pickles - I really don't know. Big Cry

But it does seem you have suppliers down-under. http://www.dansbikeshop.biz/p/moto-fizz-review.html Thumbs Up LANDYWATCH

Neighbourhood Watch for Land Rover Owners

http://www.landywatch.co.uk/smf2/index.php
Post #314918 10th Mar 2014 6:48am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5850

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
No wd40 won't work as well.

Andy
Post #314924 10th Mar 2014 7:43am
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Yep - another vote for ACF50.

I did mine when new, now 2.5 years and 20k miles, still no rust Thumbs Up Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #314927 10th Mar 2014 8:05am
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adamatdraycott



Member Since: 11 Nov 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 299

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Corris Grey
If you take the fan cowling off (6 cross head screw clips) the majority of the front of the engine is the same cast iron finish.

The engine cover is secured with the 2 bolts clearly visible (8mm socket) and a ball and socket pop fixing to the rear. A solid tug upwards and it comes away.
Post #315329 11th Mar 2014 9:40pm
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