 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > New loom for both headlight relay upgrade and add'l lights |
 
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| Christian Member Since: 23 Feb 2013 Location: Doha Posts: 66   
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When I bought my truck, it came with a tricky light switch. First contact with the fabulous short-circuitful, self-melting cable and switches world of Land Rover.
I was not suprised to find the switch completely melted on the main headlamp contact. Hence, to avoid that to happen again, and knowing that additional lamps would come in handy, I decided to draw a new loom. Here is the concept, nothing really new from what you can read here and there, but I felt the need to detail how to meet all ends. For instance, I didn't know where to connect the dashboard illumination positive, as well as the front fog lights warning lamp... Plus, I wanted to design a whole loom that would leave the stock wires and connectors untouched. The last thing I want to hear from Land Rover here is "you had a problem on the loom we changed it, here's the bill". They are capable of such stupid things. So the whole point of the following design is to have a short, thick wired connection between the battery and the headlamps, through relays that take their feed from the original headlamp connector. Then, through the same way, I pull another line for additional headlamps, triggered from the dashboard front fog lights button, that provides its own status and feeds the fog light indicator light as well. Blueprints, inspired from the original wiring diagram : Wiring Diagram page 1 Wiring Diagram page 2 Wiring Diagram page 3 Note that you might want to have a look at the original wiring diagram to understand the whole thing. I made a numbering on my own starting from 9999, except the new front fog switch connector that already has a code in LR docs (1741), and a few connector similar to existing ones (551 for the header connected to 550)... No rule here, the more important is to understand what goes where. You can print the following cable summary on a sticker paper, it matches the drawings : Tags And by that : 
I actually mean that :
But it would have been too crowded ! Careful with the lengths, it is always wise to re-measure everything. In my case (LHD) I leave the right hand drive H4 connector untouched, it could be used later to synchronise additional headlamps with the main beam (we could think about 2 wide fog lights sync'ed with the dipped lamps, and 2 narrow ones sync'ed with the main beam). The wire diameters used are definitely a huge improvement on the voltage drop and induced heat, but it also makes you suffer when it comes to dealing with stupidly small relay connectors. If you don't have access to a soldering iron and shrinkable isolation, I recommend sticking to smaller wires (being short is already an improvement). Using flexible "copex" hoses is also a good idea : they will keep the cables protected, keep them together, and hide them from suspicious Land Rover technicians. Keep in mind a 10mm copex cannot host more than one 3sqmm cable, while 16mm can host two 3sqmm and one 6sqmm. 0.5 and 1.5 sqmm wires usually find their way around the big ones with no much troubles. From the battery to the top of the engine I even used a 25mm armoured copex as it is quite exposed below the chassis. Plus it gives me one main channel to drive all cables, at least I know where are my mods coming from. It ties to the battery cubicle with a solid brass gland... just hope it does not corrode too fast. I labeled everything, every end, with the connector code and pin number, as well as the cable name. It might sounds paranoid, but believe me when the whole thing is stuck between the intercooler hose and the master cylinder, I challenge you to remember who's who. Plus, it is a good exercise to place the cable where it should go, cut it at the right length, label it and assemble it aside, so the whole loom is clean and properly assembled. Again I challenge you to go solder connectors in the vicinity of the headlamps cavity... I tried and failed. The connection between the dashboard and the loom is tricky, spliting it is a good idea (connectors C9987 and C9988 on my drawing) to allow to take a deep breath after the main loom, and pull another clean line to the dashboard switch. Taking everything (illumination and indicator lamp) from the rear fog lamp switch is convenient as located right next to the front fog switch, no need to dig behind the steering column. Now let's talk about procurement. In my case it's a pure mess. Sockets and plugs are easy to find here, but their connectors already crimped to ridiculous short cables. Plus, importing automotive parts is a crusade, things are commonly bounced at the customs. But it should be fine in any civilised country. So you'll need connectors : H5, female, for relays (they come ready for 5 pin, but in my case I don't need the fifth changeover position) 3 pieces H4, female, for headlamps, 2+ pieces (you might need + for the additional lamps) H4, male (tricky  to find... same housing, different connectors), 1 piece, to plug into the LHD original H4 connector. Note that an H5 with male connectors will do the same job.
M6 lugs, to crimp on big cables for earth ends and battery positive (which actually is an M8 ). An aluminium earthbar, handy to have one big header located upfront, reduces considerably the cables length. Any 3 pin socket+plug, low duty, for the dashboard penetration Fuseholder, blade type... the stupid thing comes with ridiculous cables, and connectors crimped as well... you guys probably could find a way better one than mine. The infamous YUG000540LNF Front Fog Switch. It needs a 347477-1 connector from Tyco. The tricky thing is to procure the inner pins that will enable you to unplug the initial rear fog switch, and insert a Y connection that will leave the original cables untouched. So you'll get two 347477 (-1 for black, -2 for green... doesnt matter), and a bunch of 345208-1 or 175027-1 (female pins), and also 173645-1 or 345212-1 or 175189-1 (the male pin). I can't find the housing for the male pins... Not pretty clean, but if someone knows what fits, it's still time to fit it. Buying another switch and tear it apart would work, but sounds a bit too expensive for me. A huge lot of cable ties... believe me you will tie, cut, tie at the same location, cut again, tie from below, above, tie your fingers... a hundred is barely enough. You'll find a bunch from the original ones to replace anyway... I though about this all the way to hold the cables :
Forget it for outdoor use, it sticks in the battery box, outside you'll need to replace the sticker with serious double face 3M. Tying to other stock hoses works just fine. I'll post photos of the whole thing installed later, but here's the comparison between the original loom and the new one in terms of output : Above are the dimmed lamps, below the main beam; the left half is before the transformation, the right is after. Click image to enlarge Waiting for your thoughts now  Chris |
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28th Feb 2013 9:45am |
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665  
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Interesting
I'm just about to wire-in my new spotlights, and was considering a wider upgrade whilst doing the job.
Keen to see your "completion" pictures... Thanks for posting. Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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28th Feb 2013 11:55am |
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| Inigo Member Since: 13 Nov 2011 Location: Kent Posts: 617
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I'm also halfway through doing something similar.
My looms are almost complete, I might just check against your wiring diagrams (very nicely done) to see that I haven't made any silly mistakes before I put them in. I have been struggling to find a good place to fit the relays. Some suggest the bulkhead, but there is so much stuff here already that I would have to move out of the way in order to fit. I'd be interested to see more photos. |
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28th Feb 2013 1:34pm |
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| Christian Member Since: 23 Feb 2013 Location: Doha Posts: 66
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I put the two relays of the dimmed and main beam on the driver's side, just under the hood using this bracket tied to the wing :
I fixed the earth bar on it too. Now I just need to try and protect the whole thing from water. The aux lights relay goes in the battery box. Chris |
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28th Feb 2013 2:31pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731  
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Really nice job
On another thread a few members (including me) upgraded only the headlights with this relay kit: https://shop.landreiziger.nl/lichtversterk...elais.html Sorry it's in Dutch but it's self-explanatory. Might give a few ideas... Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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28th Feb 2013 4:55pm |
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| Christian Member Since: 23 Feb 2013 Location: Doha Posts: 66
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...self explanatory... hum.  Chris |
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28th Feb 2013 6:55pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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 Kabelboom = Kabelbaum = cabletree = wiring loom = 
Sorry - 18 years and I've been "europeanised"  Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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28th Feb 2013 7:08pm |
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| Christian Member Since: 23 Feb 2013 Location: Doha Posts: 66
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Sorry I coulnd't help, it sounded like "Kabel ? BOOOOOOM !!!" 
It really looks like a perfectly crafted loom, but : If not designed for the Defender, what about the cable lengths ? I also preferred to have a fusebox installed for later use rather than multiple wires with fuses here and there. Again the opportunity to lay a loom invites to think about extra lamps, so... And I also prefer crimping the connectors myself so I know who to blame when the whole thing will black out in the middle of the desert  Chris |
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1st Mar 2013 2:50pm |
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| Christian Member Since: 23 Feb 2013 Location: Doha Posts: 66
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Just a little update for the battery box arrangement.
Far from perfect but at least it's neat-ish and won't fall apart anytime soon. Have to find a way to replace the cable from the battery to the fusebox, but the bloody connectors are too thin for the big 10sqmm cable... Labels on the fusebox to update too.
Positioned like that it'll enable me to switch to a 2 battery arrangement easily (the 3 spares on the right of the fusebox are isolated from the 3 on the left), I just wonder if the stock battery needs to be moved for that matter (seems to be tight if I go for another battery of the same size). Chris |
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6th Mar 2013 7:12am |
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| Christian Member Since: 23 Feb 2013 Location: Doha Posts: 66
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By the way, I'll probably have to modify somehow my wiring diagram to use the Main Beam original contact (like the one on the passenger side that I left untouched) with a changeover relay to switch off the auxiliary lights.
Not that it's a legal problem down here, but when I head back home it'll be
I'll probably fit KC Daylights on my A-Frame, do you know by chance which connector they come with ? On their website it seems to be bare cables/ring lugs, in this case i'd go for something like that : Chris |
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6th Mar 2013 1:09pm |
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| tuesdayfox Member Since: 23 Jun 2013 Location: Sydney,OZ Posts: 129 
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Hi guys,
just want to confirm that every puma was fitted with headlights relay? they are the R122 relay on the diagram? THanks Martin |
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21st Jan 2014 1:13am |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Surely it's quite odd then that using the new harness, the increase in voltage at the lights is a whopping 0.7 volts!
If there is an existing relay, its bogger all good Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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21st Jan 2014 6:55am |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Also, if you're looking at R123 on page 62 of the Electrical Wiring Diagrams issue 1c manual, there's only one relay and it looks as though full current from the lights is going through it and the lighting switch? Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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21st Jan 2014 7:08am |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6104 
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All the sets of KC's i've had, they haven't had any plugs on them. maybe a ring and a bullet connector, but certainly no econoseals like above ^^^ They would make a good connection, it's whay I (and plenty of others) use. |
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21st Jan 2014 7:52am |
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