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hoarder



Member Since: 04 Nov 2008
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 41

United Kingdom 
Cooling Problems
Over the past couple of weeks my 300tdi Defender has developed a problem with the cooling system.

The vehicle is fitted with a Madman Engine Monitoring System which has an additional temperature sender in the thermostat housing filler plug, normally this reads between 88deg & 91deg, depending on how hard the engine is working, recently though, a few miles after reaching normal operating temperature the temperature starts fluctuating & climbing, sometimes hitting over 100deg. First thought was a faulty sender, but I found that on moving the heater control from hot to cold (or vice-versa), the temperature returns to normal & is stable for a few miles. The standard temperature gauge sits dead centre, but I believe that this can mean a wide span of temperatures?

Apart from this problem, the engine appears in good order - no coolant or oil loss, no coolant in the oil, or oil in the coolant. Radiator is 4 months old. Heater is blowing warm air. New thermostat (genuine part) fitted with no improvement. I have refilled the system, following the Land Rover 'Rave' workshop manual, thinking that there was an air lock in the heater.

Any ideas???
Post #286655 30th Nov 2013 10:41pm
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Lacy



Member Since: 25 May 2011
Location: Birmingham(ish)
Posts: 29

No answers I'm afraid but I shall be watching this thread with interest.

The temperature of my 300tdi has been rock steady in the middle of the guage whatever you threw at it since I replaced the radiator and thermostat last year. For some reason, it now gets to normal, stays there for a few miles, then gradually climbs up to just before the red....never overheats and occasionally comes back down but not always. Water level OK, changed the stat again just to check but still the same. I'm quite enjoying the lovely toasty heater but it's just a bit disconcerting as I have no idea why it should be running hotter than usual.

Lacy
Post #286684 1st Dec 2013 2:07am
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Swollock



Member Since: 16 Mar 2013
Location: Wellingborough Northants
Posts: 262

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Bonatti Grey
I had this kind of problem on a 200TDI, not totally convinced this was the fix, but the filler plug on the top of the radiator (the small black plastic one) was cracked and I believe this stopped the pressure building or interfered with the water flow, but I changed it and it never did this again.

Mine would go up to the red line, I would stop switch off the engine sit for 1 min and start it again and it would be OK, not long enough for it to have cooled on its own. After fitting a new plug no problem.?

It had been over tightened (Not by me I might add) and the crack was where the thread joined the nut part. 2008 Defender 110 XS CSW
Volvo S60 T8
Triumph 1200 Rally Explorer
G0UBX
Post #286687 1st Dec 2013 6:41am
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Lacy



Member Since: 25 May 2011
Location: Birmingham(ish)
Posts: 29

That's interesting.....I replaced the plastic bungs on the rad and stat housing with brass ones and the rubber seals aren't in the best of condition any more so I shall change those and see.......
Post #286751 1st Dec 2013 1:52pm
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ARC99



Member Since: 19 Feb 2013
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1831

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Cairns Blue
Years ago I had the same problem with my 300Tdi, I replaced the thermostat which made no difference. I mentioned it to a land rover mechanic who worked for an independent garage. He told me that land rover had two thermostats listed for a 300Tdi and it was more than likely that I had been sold the wrong one. I got the 2nd one and had no problems after fitting Don't make old people mad.
We don't like being old in the first place,
so it doesn't take much to Censored us off.

Richard
Post #286758 1st Dec 2013 2:32pm
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8581

United Kingdom 
The standard L R temperature gauge is about as much use as a chocolate fire guard!

Normal position is around 88-91C. By the time the needle has reached red it is 106+C

Water boils at 100C. Coolant boiling point dependent on pressure and concentration can be anything up to 120+C

So temp gauge hits red you could be already loosing coolant.



Brendan
Post #287578 4th Dec 2013 9:44am
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Romadog



Member Since: 07 Jul 2011
Location: Powys
Posts: 1749

Check that your radiator isn't furring up inside. As this reduces amount of coolant being cooled. I had this problem with a 200tdi.
Post #287675 4th Dec 2013 6:04pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3347

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Check your viscous coupling.

I had similar problems and a new coupling cured it Thumbs Up
Post #287680 4th Dec 2013 6:15pm
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StephenO



Member Since: 03 Dec 2010
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 246

Scotland 
I have a similar issue as Lacy with my D90 300tdi.

Before I replaced the following I never had any leaks but had infrequent issues with the temperature fluctuating.

Recently I've fitted a new radiator, thermostat, all the new hoses even the ones to the matrix, put fresh 50/50 in. I also put a 2nd hand intercooler in which looked better than the one I had. So almost a full new set up.

The problem I have is, the temp rises to normal operating (Half way) and after a few miles, maybe 20 it starts to rise to about 3/4's but doesn't go any higher??

The only thing I have noticed recently is that I now have a slight leak coming from the water pump, someone's says it's probably the P gasket? I think I only loose coolant when the defender is cooling down as I'm not loosing much.

Any thoughts, could the be my issue??

Cheers

Stephen Thumbs Up 2007 Defender Puma Tonga Green

2015 Range Rover Sport Autobiography Corrie Grey
1968 Series 2a Bronze Green
1995 Defender 90 Coniston Green
2005 Discovery 3 Zambezi Silver
Post #287730 4th Dec 2013 8:22pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8025

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
bearing failure in the water pump - hence the leak? and increase in temp over std as pump efficiency lost? Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #287745 4th Dec 2013 8:59pm
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StephenO



Member Since: 03 Dec 2010
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 246

Scotland 
Thanks jst,

Was gonna replace the pump when I had it stripped but didn't think there was any issues with it Confused

It's a thought having to strip it out again lol

Cheers Thumbs Up 2007 Defender Puma Tonga Green

2015 Range Rover Sport Autobiography Corrie Grey
1968 Series 2a Bronze Green
1995 Defender 90 Coniston Green
2005 Discovery 3 Zambezi Silver
Post #287762 4th Dec 2013 9:27pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8025

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Re: Cooling Problems
hoarder wrote:
Over the past couple of weeks my 300tdi Defender has developed a problem with the cooling system.

The vehicle is fitted with a Madman Engine Monitoring System which has an additional temperature sender in the thermostat housing filler plug, normally this reads between 88deg & 91deg, depending on how hard the engine is working, recently though, a few miles after reaching normal operating temperature the temperature starts fluctuating & climbing, sometimes hitting over 100deg. First thought was a faulty sender, but I found that on moving the heater control from hot to cold (or vice-versa), the temperature returns to normal & is stable for a few miles. The standard temperature gauge sits dead centre, but I believe that this can mean a wide span of temperatures?

Apart from this problem, the engine appears in good order - no coolant or oil loss, no coolant in the oil, or oil in the coolant. Radiator is 4 months old. Heater is blowing warm air. New thermostat (genuine part) fitted with no improvement. I have refilled the system, following the Land Rover 'Rave' workshop manual, thinking that there was an air lock in the heater.

Any ideas???


no other engine mods? intercooler change, fuelling change/boost changes?

try it without the stat but block off the foot vavle or just remove the centre of your old stat.

so heater always blows hot when on hot? Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #287776 4th Dec 2013 10:00pm
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hoarder



Member Since: 04 Nov 2008
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 41

United Kingdom 
JST,

I have an Allisport intercooler & very mild tweak of the diaphragm in the injector pump - hence the Madman EMS gauge for keeping an eye on EGT etc. This was done a few thousand miles ago, everything had been ok up to a couple of weeks ago. Heater functioning correctly (always hot when switched to hot)

If it wasn't for the fact that the temperature can be brought back to normal by moving the heater controls, I'd be looking at a sensor fault for the Madman EMS which seems very fussy when it come to earthing problems - I've been working for the last few days, but I will be checking the engine earths tomorrow just to rule that out.

The temperature changes so quickly - quicker & more erratically than I would have thought it should? Would anything with the water flow ever do this? Air lock? As I said in my first post, the standard gauge doesn't move at all, even when the EMS is reading over 100deg.

Cheers
Ian
Post #287806 5th Dec 2013 12:20am
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
When you say you had it stripped did you actually take the water pump off? It may be the vanes on the water pump have expired/eroded and it's lost its full capacity.
Post #287807 5th Dec 2013 12:50am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8025

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Hoarder, so when you put the heater temp up the coolant temp comes down i presume. your OP seems to suggest the coolant temps drops regardless of which way the heater temp is moved. i am probably just misreading it. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #287947 5th Dec 2013 3:55pm
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