 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma Defender cutting out |
 
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| Killer90 Site Sponsor Member Since: 09 Oct 2011 Location: Hertfordshire Posts: 6478   
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hmmm, with the fuel filters did you bleed the system through after
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19th Dec 2012 6:53pm |
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| DWM Member Since: 18 Dec 2012 Location: South Wales Posts: 5  
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On both fuel filter changes the car has run well for approximately an hour on tick over in the workshop, then suddenly stops as if the ignition has been switched off, sometimes after this has occurred it is difficult to get it started other times it will start perfectly, there doesn't appear to be any pattern to the problem i.e engine warm or cold, tick over or higher revs, it does however happen more after the throttle is released e.g when approaching a junction. [/quote]
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19th Dec 2012 7:07pm |
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| GUM97 Member Since: 05 Feb 2012 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3555 
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Not got a Puma myself, so I'm no expert specifically. The symptoms though are exactly those of a transit van that we've had in the workshop over the last few weeks. The problem turned out to be an injector fault, a fuel valve fault that for the life of me I cant remember the name of, and also an immobiliser fault. Seen as the van and the Defender both have the same engine, it may be of some relevance . An engine to TDi for!
"Land Rover- Proudly turning drivers into mechanics since 1948"  |
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19th Dec 2012 7:11pm |
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| Lorryman100 Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Here Posts: 2686 |
Have a read of this post and see if any of the symptoms match
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic8577.html |
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19th Dec 2012 7:22pm |
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| DWM Member Since: 18 Dec 2012 Location: South Wales Posts: 5
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As I'm only an mech/elec fitter, I'm not really up to speed with injectors, so please excuse my ignorance but wouldn't the injector throw the same fault at the same revs, assuming that the diameter of the injector remains constant and that fuel demand is controlled by the throttle position providing a milliamp signal to the fuel pump?
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19th Dec 2012 7:32pm |
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| GUM97 Member Since: 05 Feb 2012 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3555
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To be perfectly honest, I'm no expert on injectors either, I let the mechanics do all the hard work! So I really wouldn't know! It was just a suggestion, and come to think of it, we've only ever had problems on Fords and Ivecos (the same company), strange really.. An engine to TDi for! "Land Rover- Proudly turning drivers into mechanics since 1948" |
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19th Dec 2012 7:41pm |
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| MD5 Member Since: 02 May 2011 Location: Italy Posts: 143 
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I suggest to check the fuel tank and fuel line between tank and filter for debris and dirty. Months ago I experienced many random engine cutoff and thanks to great assistance of Brian (Lorryman100) the problem was solved.
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19th Dec 2012 8:14pm |
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| Merlin Member Since: 30 Oct 2010 Location: Newmarket Posts: 981
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Lorryman was a great help to me as well, without him I doubt if it would have been sorted so quickly. Read the link he has posted, right to the bottom. Maybe save you a lot of time and money. No guarantee but who knows?
Merlin |
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20th Dec 2012 11:45am |
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| Andy Jeff Member Since: 11 Nov 2012 Location: Suffolk, UK. Posts: 143 
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It's a bit of a side track I know but...I had a similar problem with my TD5 recently.
The car started and ran fine and at some point later stopped as if the ignition had been turned off. It ended up being the 10AS alarm unit that talks to the ECU to let it run ok. Seems like the 10AS unit and the ECU didn't want to have a conversation from time to time so the ECU threw its toys out of the pram and stopped the engine. It's supposedly rare, but if you google for it, it happens. It too didn't show up on diagnostics as it was a break in communications rather than the two components not agreeing. Suppose I shouldn't abuse my truck so much really. You never know with electronics, I never had such trouble with the 300Tdi - noisy, dirty, lack of power loveable old thing 
Andy. |
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20th Dec 2012 12:05pm |
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| wslr Member Since: 18 Jul 2010 Location: Wellington, Somerset Posts: 581
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It could be a fuel pump issue, more specifically, the sensor on the back - Part number LR009837
To be honest, it will need a fuel pressure test to prove it, ideally using SDD/IDS or similar. |
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20th Dec 2012 2:09pm |
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| 110SEB Member Since: 29 Jan 2009 Location: Essex, England Posts: 1444 
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Wait, I have had this twice before and a week in the dealership having everything checked turned nothing up. A 2 minute chat with my independent (shall I plug them? This isn't the BBC) solved it.
I too have a 2007 110. Lift up the driver's seat and access the space underneath and push all your electrical plugs in as hard as you can. Do the same with every connection that you can see in the engine bay. That might do it. It did on mine and it stopped the erratic idling also. Brentwood has some new very bumpy fancy cobbled sections on the high street and I suspect it gave rise to the smallest weak connection somewhere that caused me a nightmare: Cutting out when pulling up to roundabouts, at traffic lights, at a standstill, just driving - totally unpredictable. |
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20th Dec 2012 3:38pm |
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| DWM Member Since: 18 Dec 2012 Location: South Wales Posts: 5
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Assuming that all the electrical connections are good, how do you disable the immobiliser. I'm still in work at the moment, just spoken to the mechanic who's carrying out the work, the car is running in the workshop now, but that isn't any guarantee that the problem won't present itself again, I have asked him to check the fuel line from tank to filter as suggested. Thanks for all the advice - keep it coming. I've got a feeling that the headache is far from over, it's been in the garage THREE weeks
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20th Dec 2012 4:56pm |
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| 110SEB Member Since: 29 Jan 2009 Location: Essex, England Posts: 1444
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I had that. The fuel line was checked from mouth to A-hole, so to speak, and nothing found at all. Plenty of parts swapped along the way too, just to check. It still happened - never on cue - and was only fixed by the connection trick i described. LR were on to the engineers at Solihull who didn't know what the problem could be. They said that if the car came in again, Solihull would send someone over.
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20th Dec 2012 5:02pm |
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| Lorryman100 Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Here Posts: 2686 |
The only way to disable the immobilizer is by using a diagnostic tool that can access the 10AS module. Once you are in the settings page you will need to disable a couple of things, which I will pm you.
If you can't get access to a suitable tool then the garage should know about another way of bypassing the passive immobilizer, if they don't know get them to drop me an email (link below) containing their email address and I will get back to them.
Brian. |
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22nd Dec 2012 1:17pm |
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