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Khasar



Member Since: 09 Nov 2013
Location: Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
Posts: 8

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Baltic Blue
Puma does not start in cold weather
hi, i have 2008 puma in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. Currently its high of -7C and at night its -17C and its parked outside, car just won't start in morning, only starter works and nothing else as if it has no diesel. in the afternoon when temperature has risen car would start for 1 second but won't be able to idle for any longer. checked the fuel pump, oil has been changed and gear box oil as well. car starts normally when parked in a heated garage. initially i thought it was due to the summer diesel which i had in the tank, now its winter yet still the problem persist.

does anyone had this issue? all the help will be much appreciated.
Post #284501 23rd Nov 2013 9:45am
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bell-auto-services



Member Since: 08 Jul 2007
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 2232

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Change the fuel filter incase it has water in the trap at the bottom.

Pete
Post #284515 23rd Nov 2013 11:31am
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Khasar



Member Since: 09 Nov 2013
Location: Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
Posts: 8

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Baltic Blue
thanks Pete, when the problem first started a month ago, i took out the fuel filter, checked for any water residue in it, drained all of its content there was no sign of any water in it. filled it back with diesel and fitted it back.

Khasar
Post #284517 23rd Nov 2013 11:42am
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bell-auto-services



Member Since: 08 Jul 2007
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 2232

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Try a new one just incase the element inside is damaged.
Post #284519 23rd Nov 2013 11:45am
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Glynparry25



Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

Wales 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Tonga Green
Hi Khasar,

Could be a similar problem to what I had in Cyprus. The fuel was of a 'cheaper' grade and would start waxing at a relatively high temperature- it was starting to wax at -5 degrees C. I changed the filter and then added some additive to the tank and then had no more problems.

Might be an idea to drain some fuel (when warm) and then do some tests on it to either confirm or dissmis this possibility.


Click image to enlarge

+5 degrees C


Click image to enlarge

-10 degrees C... The thermometer is stood up in it without support

Glyn Dog :sheep:

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green


Last edited by Glynparry25 on 23rd Nov 2013 3:31pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #284522 23rd Nov 2013 11:55am
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Khasar



Member Since: 09 Nov 2013
Location: Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
Posts: 8

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Baltic Blue
thanks guys, will check and let you know on Monday once the local LR dealer is open.
will try the diesel test tomorrow, they say its Euro Nano brand diesel.
Post #284534 23rd Nov 2013 1:28pm
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Lorryman100



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

If the diesel is not the issue check the glow plugs, glow plug harness and the glow plug relay. You can do an Ohms test on a glow plug with a DMM to check for an open circuit and check the relay as well. Any DTC's logged in the EMS?
Post #284558 23rd Nov 2013 3:19pm
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Khasar



Member Since: 09 Nov 2013
Location: Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
Posts: 8

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Baltic Blue
sorry took me a while to get back with my findings. changed the fuel filter, checked the fuel it is winter diesel still same story puma does not want to start in the morning after she was left outside at -15C.

LR dealer did not say anything about EMS codes, when i had it checked there.

here is the finding in the picture. the main positive wire that goes to the glow plugs was loose, not completely loose from the copper wire but definitely wiggles when touched. could this be the reason for the bad start? due to loose wire diesel is not being heated to the required temperature because the wire is not transmitting 100%? and since finding out this cable issue, it struck me odd that even in summer my diesel warming light would be on for 4 seconds, is this normal? even after the car has been warmed up, on the road for 2 hours or more, diesel spiral sign would be on for 3-4 seconds, or is this a common puma thing?
Post #287627 4th Dec 2013 2:49pm
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Lorryman100



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

During the preheat stage, the ECM receives the engine temperature from the cylinder head temperature (CHT) sensor and this is what determines the preheat time. The lower the temperature, the longer the preheat time. There is a maximum preheat time of about 8 seconds at -20°C or lower.
Once the engine has started, the glow plugs enter an after-glow phase. The after-glow phase only operates at engine speeds below 2500 rpm, above that the after-glow phase is stopped to increase the longevity of the glow plugs. There is a maximum after-glow time of about 30 seconds at -20°C or lower. If the CHT is above 50 degrees C there is no after glow.

If the connection is loose then yes that can be a cause of the glow plugs not working. A easy test is to use a DMM and do a voltage / amps check on the rail. The glow plugs draw a decent amperage so a loose connection will stop the maximum current from being delivered to the plug rail.

HTH Thumbs Up
Post #287639 4th Dec 2013 3:31pm
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Khasar



Member Since: 09 Nov 2013
Location: Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
Posts: 8

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Baltic Blue
thank you. will check that within this week. here is the photo of the wire i suspect has a problem. this goes directly to the glow plugs. the bottom part had electrical tape which came off easily and looked as if had been under high heat.
Post #287650 4th Dec 2013 4:03pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
If as Lorryman suggests the heat cycle goes on for a maximum of 8 seconds and you located a loose wire/connection it is plausible that with the high resistance your symptoms could be explained. Especially if the cable/connection has heat stress signs.
From glancing at the workshop manual there appears to be three main DTCs referring to open/short circuits in the glow plug system

P037D29 Glow plug relay sensor circuit - signal invalid

Glow plug short circuit to ground
Relay circuit to relay
Relay circuit from relay
Glow plug relay fault

Check the relay and circuits. Refer to the electrical guides.
Activate the relay and check for an audible "click". Rectify as
necessary. Clear the DTCs and test for normal operation.

P038011 Glow plug/heater circuit A - circuit short to ground

Glow plug relay control circuit:
short circuit to ground
Glow plug relay fault

Check the relay and circuits. Refer to the electrical guides.
Activate the relay and check for an audible "click". Rectify as
necessary. Clear the DTCs and test for normal operation.

P038015 Glow plug/heater circuit A - circuit short to battery or open

Glow plug relay control circuit:
short circuit to power
Glow plug relay control circuit: open circuit
Glow plug relay fault

Check the relay and circuits. Refer to the electrical guides.
Activate the relay and check for an audible "click". Rectify as
necessary. Clear the DTCs and test for normal operation.

I would have thought one of these may have been logged perhaps? I hope you have found the cause.

Thumbs Up If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #287653 4th Dec 2013 4:10pm
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Khasar



Member Since: 09 Nov 2013
Location: Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
Posts: 8

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Baltic Blue
I think finally some breakthrough on the case, as suggested checked the glow plugs and here is the finding:

Didn't go to the dealer as they charge almost 80USD just to check for any logged codes in the system and will charge additional hourly labour fee on top of the overcharged price for any replacement item.

3 glow plugs were dead... only 1 was working, checked each individual glow plug with a multimeter and double checked it via hardwiring it to a battery. same result, 1 works, 3 other are not. reading on the working plug was 16.4.

so in the end, not sure if i should complain for the lack of any warning on the dashboard spiral light or be amazed it was starting only on 1 working glow plug during Mongolian winter Smile

Glow plugs were not available at the dealer, if i order through them, it will come after 3 weeks and each glow plug will cost 40 USD. Ordered it from London, set of 4 plugs around 30 USD and arrives after a week Smile
Post #290989 17th Dec 2013 4:27am
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6300

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
sounds like a happy ending Thumbs Up

(once again I'm astounded at Lorryman100's knowledge Bow down )
Post #290997 17th Dec 2013 7:45am
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Off Topic

out of interest Khasar, does your engine have the breather heater installed from the rocker cover to the airbox ?

does it feel warm ?
Post #291042 17th Dec 2013 10:01am
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x-isle



Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Slightly bouncing off on a tangent and probably not that useful and also puts a bit of strain on the battery but in anything less than 0deg I usually cycle through the heater plugs 3 times (ign on, heat, off, on, heat, off, on, heat, start).

Don't know why, I think I might of heard it off Ed Cobley? Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #291043 17th Dec 2013 10:07am
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