 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > rust treating bulkhead |
 
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471   
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Removal of one A pillar hinge screw at a time will permit a fine spray lance into the bulkhead upright. Removal of the rubber grommets below the windscreen frame is another point of access as is the hole in the bottom of the A pillar which is accessible from underneath the vehicle.
You'll be an expert at rustproofing in no time  Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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16th Sep 2013 7:33pm |
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| Culminator Member Since: 30 Apr 2013 Location: West sussex Posts: 305 |
Superb, thanks Steve
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16th Sep 2013 9:05pm |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4665 
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1992 tdi 110, now in storage still has the origional bulkhead. 1982 series 111 still has the origional bulkhead. Neither ever had anything injected into them. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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16th Sep 2013 9:52pm |
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| Skye_Rover Member Since: 29 Aug 2013 Location: Skye Posts: 85  
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If you have a long enough lance, you can also push this up past the outrigger fixing to the bulkhead. As well as going through the hinges on my 300Tdi, I also made sure that the wax was sprayed liberally up the A-posts. Trouble is, when it runs out, it's straight down your arm.....
Getting a good spray around the vent apertures is much trickier; I took the top dash out and went through some bunged-up holes at the base of the windscreen, if memory serves me correctly. I also tackled the bulkhead from the engine side by removing the bonnet, and spraying wax out of a lance in free-space up under the windscreen (in the reinforcement area between the bulkhead proper and the webs) to make sure that rust would not take any sort of hold there. A bit over-the-top, but having restored a couple of Sers. Landrovers, the bulkhead is one area I didn't want to ever weld again. I have just re-waxed all the footwells on my 300Tdi, and that means a sloppy great brush, a big bucket of Waxoyl, and lifting all the carpets out, so that both sides of the footwell can be coated. Then I put rubber mats inside to protect the wax for a couple of months. This keeps the metalwork rust-free from the side that corrosion really takes a hold (the inside).  Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads. |
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16th Sep 2013 10:09pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
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^^Good advice but remember access to the top of the bulkead from the interior is different for Pumas
Basically inject, squirt, spray or brush on every conceivable nook and cranny being mindful of any moving or electrical parts and connections. The inside top corners, A pillars and areas under the screen are a must as these are favourite spots for tin worm. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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17th Sep 2013 8:15am |
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| Culminator Member Since: 30 Apr 2013 Location: West sussex Posts: 305 |
Thanks again all, much appreciated. Just out of interest, which Dinitrol product did you use, ML or Din1000 or 3125 or another?
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17th Sep 2013 12:56pm |
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| Sockpuppet Member Since: 17 Sep 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 479
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ML and 3125 seem to be the same. Listed as ML3125 on the website but the cans say ML on them.
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17th Sep 2013 1:58pm |
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| Skye_Rover Member Since: 29 Aug 2013 Location: Skye Posts: 85
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Ah yes.... sage advice indeed. Not everything is progress, although I'm sick of cutting my wrists on the upper dash support web for TD5 wiper racks!!! As an aside, I used the Bilt Hamber self-propelled wax in an aerosol (you can get it in 5L tins these days) as it runs absolutely everywhere (most out the bottom of any section you are treating....) and into flanges. However, recent trials by the motoring press (Classic Car Monthly is the one I have to mind) suggested that good old Waxoyl was just as good, if not better, than the rest for creeping into flanges and staying there - but only if you made sure the wax was warmed to start with (like summer) or thinned slightly with white spirit. This now appears to be true also in my experience on my 300Tdi, as the Waxoyl-treated panels are holding on better in salt-spray parking than the Bilt Hamber sections. One trick I used on a Stg.1 V8 bulkhead was to seal the ends of each section, and fill the void, slosh the lot around, then drain. Obviously helps if you can get the bulkhead off the chassis! The best bit of Waxoyl is that it is cheap enough to slosh around, so you can afford to risk losing it all over the garage floor. Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads. |
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17th Sep 2013 4:32pm |
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