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Marlin.45



Member Since: 20 May 2014
Location: Llangadog, Carmarthenshire
Posts: 54

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Td5 SW Baltic Blue
TD5 hubs - twin lock nuts and ABS?
Our 2007 TD5 90 has the usual poorly lubed bearings and dust off the half shaft tips...as I found out at the weekend.

The bearing assemblies are as they came off the production line with the bearing spacer ring and the 'staked' single bearing locknut. I managed to get this off with a cold chisel as I didn't have a 52mm socket at the time (only the std hub spanner off the Series). That's when I found out the original torque setting. No wonder it was tough!

Now I was planning to replace the newer type staked single nut with the older style twin nut and lock/tab washer, but leave the spacer in. But then I was thought how will I manage to get 150 ft/lb on the thin washer with the forces involved. The original type would be thicker and prevent so much force pushing the bar where I don't want it to go? I can see me in A&E doing that to the older thin type.

So then I wondered about pulling the spacer and setting the bearings as per the Series hub system. One issue I can see (setting the play isn't an issue and I have been doing it for years on S2/3's) as this 90 has ABS. Could the small amount of play I may have affect the ABS system/sensor?

Anyone have any experience of this?

Cheers,
Paul 2006 TD5 90 County
1961 MF35


Last edited by Marlin.45 on 28th Jan 2015 7:18pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #351116 11th Aug 2014 8:51pm
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jimbob7



Member Since: 06 Jul 2013
Location: uk
Posts: 2055

Play in the bearings can affect the sensors (on the rear,I assume, as the sensors on the fronts are in the axle),throwing up a warning light,dunno how much play tho. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
Post #351186 12th Aug 2014 8:56am
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Porny
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Member Since: 31 Aug 2009
Location: Sutton Coldfield - West Midlands
Posts: 809

 
Set up properly using the old two nut set up without a spacer you will not have an issue even with ABS.

Do not try and use the thin nuts with the spacer and torque to 150lbft as the thin nut will strip... and if it doesn't it probably would in use - so wheel will fall off.

I personally quote like the single nut and spacer set up. IRB
The home of the first modified Keswick Green 90 - and the first 2.4 Puma through both the 200bhp and 550Nm barriers.

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Post #351198 12th Aug 2014 10:12am
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Marlin.45



Member Since: 20 May 2014
Location: Llangadog, Carmarthenshire
Posts: 54

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Td5 SW Baltic Blue
Cheers for that chaps. Looks like I will be pulling the spacer then and setting the pre-load the old fashioned way Wink 2006 TD5 90 County
1961 MF35
Post #351304 12th Aug 2014 9:04pm
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
It is very often done to change to the pre TD5 system. The problem with the newer system is that you need a wagon load off spacers to adjust the bearing play.
I am currenly converting mine too to the older system. Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #351311 12th Aug 2014 9:19pm
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Marlin.45



Member Since: 20 May 2014
Location: Llangadog, Carmarthenshire
Posts: 54

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Td5 SW Baltic Blue
Well all the hubs are now converted...bar one.

The front left refused to come off the stub axle. Well it 'did' then after a lot of persuasion it came off...leaving the inner bearing and hub seal on the stub axle. After eventually extracting the bearing off the stub it appears to have either overheated in the past or shrunk...or the stub axle is oversized Rolling Eyes ? Either way the inner bearing refuses to go back on. The outer bearing surface that was in contact with the stub has also discoloured from overheating.

...and the hub nut when I took it off was definitley nowhere near 150ft/lb either Rolling Eyes

As the stub is now probably iffy along with both bearings (a bit of damage from getting the bearing off) I plan to replace the stub axle and both hub bearings (Timken). P'docks appear to do a kit though if it is the right one...but it is a Britpart one.

Parts I think I will need are:-

Stub axle kit DA3191
Stub to swivel gasket
2x bearings STC4382
Rear hub lip seal FTC4785
Drive flange gasket
One shot grease

Does that sound right?

I know the comments regarding 'blue box' but is their stub axle kit any good or does anyone have a better recommendation and source?

Cheers,
Paul 2006 TD5 90 County
1961 MF35
Post #352217 17th Aug 2014 9:31pm
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Marlin.45



Member Since: 20 May 2014
Location: Llangadog, Carmarthenshire
Posts: 54

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Td5 SW Baltic Blue
In the end I bought the blue box option kit but withe Cortec seals and Timken bearings for the hub. Beating fit the stub shaft perfectly so either I am lucky with this one, or..... Rolling Eyes At under £30 it was worth a pop.

Away on business this week and last wknd was chokker so the 90 should be back on the road at the wknd so the next test is to get through the MOT in a few weeks...with a missing CAT Whistle 2006 TD5 90 County
1961 MF35
Post #353594 25th Aug 2014 5:52pm
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Marlin.45



Member Since: 20 May 2014
Location: Llangadog, Carmarthenshire
Posts: 54

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Td5 SW Baltic Blue
Well another weekend will pass without a working Defender.

The stub shaft kit was supplied with two seals an I seem to have mistakenly fitted both. Only one should have been used depending on the year - I have now discovered. Due to fitting two the CV assembly and therefore the half shaft will not be in the right position, so then the circlip and spacers cannot be fitted as the half shaft is too far in the drive flange. Guess who found this out once he got to the part where the circlip was due to go back on?

Well at least I now know this if I have to do the other side? Rolling Eyes

The bright side is I will now be using quality bearings and seals in the B*itpart assembly Whistle 2006 TD5 90 County
1961 MF35
Post #354633 30th Aug 2014 8:12pm
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