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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Replaced the rear drive flanges for some new ones along with new bolts & new gasket. Certainly less play than before.

Buzzed the wheel nuts off with my new Makita impact driver. 130nm of wheel nut tightness to off in no time. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #683453 1st Feb 2018 4:50pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Which Makita model did you go for?
Post #683461 1st Feb 2018 5:31pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-dtw285z-...bare/7786v 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #683462 1st Feb 2018 5:33pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Nice - brushless certainly seems the way to go.

I probably over-spec'd and ended up with a Makita DTW1002Z as I also had an old structure to demolish with plenty of rusty nuts and bolts holding it together.
Post #683587 2nd Feb 2018 9:23am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
That's a lot of torque! 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #683598 2nd Feb 2018 11:06am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
You certainly feel it through the wrists - it's a two hand affair Thumbs Up
Post #683603 2nd Feb 2018 11:40am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Sounds a beast! 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #683632 2nd Feb 2018 2:27pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Replaced both of the front mud flaps as one fell off last week. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #683659 2nd Feb 2018 5:02pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20334

United Kingdom 
Be very careful with those drive flange bolts, they've been known to be made of cheese.
If they shear off, you've got big problems.

If I changed them, personally I'd always stick to genuine bolts and replace for new as well for that very reason.

I'm just saying how I would do things but it's something to bear in mind. Thumbs Up ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #683669 2nd Feb 2018 5:51pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17363

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Well they're hardly cheese, they're 10.9 high tensile which makes them some of the highest grade bolts on the vehicle!

The trouble is that they get gunged up with threadlocker and gasket compound, and then often massively overtightened. Then the poor things give up the ghost and die when you try to remove them.

I use standard grade 10.9 hex socket head caps, M10x40mm if I recall correctly, with spring washers and no thread lock, torqued to spec., and have no trouble with them.
Post #683682 2nd Feb 2018 6:56pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Thanks for the heads up. Already had a snapped bolt a couple of years ago. Had to drill the remains out.
New bolts fitted and what crud removed from the threads, Torqued up in a star pattern to 65nm with a torque wrench. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #683683 2nd Feb 2018 7:02pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20334

United Kingdom 
blackwolf wrote:
The trouble is that they get gunged up with threadlocker and gasket compound, and then often massively overtightened. Then the poor things give up the ghost and die when you try to remove them.

I'd definitely agree with that, wheel nuts are also a hot favourite which is why I include wheel nut torque on paper with my locking wheel nut tool.
Whether or not it's taken any notice of or not I don't know, especially at MOT time.
I've known some nuts looser and others tighter before took you always can tell. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #683704 2nd Feb 2018 8:10pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5804

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Went on a visit at the top of the Cham valley which has had a bit of snow over the past few weeks Shocked


Click image to enlarge
 Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #683783 3rd Feb 2018 10:06am
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BigRuss



Member Since: 15 May 2010
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 2785

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
That road looks pretty clear to me.... Russell
2011MY 110 XS USW Black
Post #683848 3rd Feb 2018 3:37pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
Spent the day playing in somebody elses Defender Cool


Click image to enlarge


(The Discovery is ours Laughing ) Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #683910 3rd Feb 2018 8:11pm
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