 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Worth Galving the chassis? |
 
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| drive4change Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: Somerset Posts: 193   
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If there are no issues at the moment I would not go to the trouble of galvanising the chassis. If you plan on keeping the vehicle for an extended period of time then at some point, you will rebuild it... It is a defender after all
 at which point you can renew the other bits for better quality items as required. A chassis swap done by a specialist is not cheap. Probably upwards of £3000. IMHO If it ain't broke ...... Spend the cash on some mods  www.drive4change.co.uk |
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23rd Apr 2013 8:14am |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6092 
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If it's a 2004, then it's had 9 years of road dirt, mud, rust etc already inside the chassis rails.
If you can get all of that cleaned out, and there's no major corrosion, then i'd say its a good idead, but to be honest if it's manky inside and can't be cleaned out, then the zinc isn't going to stick, and eventhugh the outside might look sound, it'll still rust from the inside. IMO, the best route would be to get a new chassis dipped. more money I know, but better for peace of mind. |
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23rd Apr 2013 8:45am |
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| appaloosadude Member Since: 17 Oct 2012 Location: Buckinghamshire Posts: 630 
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Start saving....
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23rd Apr 2013 8:52am |
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665 
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I had wondered that - when the Defender was new, I squirted LOADS of Dinitrol Cavity Wax inside...but when it comes to re-application, how can I effectively clean the inside of the chasis prior to reapplication...? I guess it's just a case of "do your best" until the chassis starts to become a MOT advisory, then gird your loins and get it re-chassied (with copper/ss brake lines and all the other stuff which will need renewed/frefurbed by then). But I assume a well-looked-after chassis should last 15-20 years anyway...? Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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23rd Apr 2013 9:37am |
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| sidler Member Since: 18 Apr 2013 Location: Netherlands Posts: 12  
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I cleaned the chassis with a hose on the pressure washer that is used to unclog the sewer. Just drill 2 holes in the rear cross member straight behind the chassis bars running to the front and you can go all in
This worked pretty well on the SIII. I had my Defender prepped with tectyl and waxoil when it was brand new. Both the chassis and body (bulkhead, doors, b-posts etc) As far as I can see after 5 years this is was a good investment of 200 euro's. |
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23rd Apr 2013 10:23am |
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| pope10001 Member Since: 15 Oct 2011 Location: Dulverton Posts: 489 
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This is only worth doing if you are never going to sell your Defender. I re-chassised my 1992 200Tdi 90 about a year ago, this is my first Land Rover and as such i will never sell it by choice.
It cost me around £16000 by the time all of the work was complete which included a new galvanised chassis and then everything that needed renewing, brake/fuel lines, new callipers/brakes, axles reconned, new gearbox/tx box, suspension, bulkhead, re-spray etc, etc. Admittedly around half of that was labour. The reality is if you only intend to keep it another 10 years you will not get your money back, if you plan to keep it forever then it is a worthwhile investment. Regards, Mark |
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23rd Apr 2013 2:27pm |
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| WarPig Member Since: 04 Dec 2009 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1748  
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I guess theres always a risk of your chassis warping during the galv process? If I was you I would just keep on top of your current chassis and then consider swapping it for a ready made galv chassis (such as Richards) in the future if it gets bad.
I dont see the point in going to the expense of galving a good chassis just for the sake of it as its quite expensive major surgery, and who says you will still own it in years to come? I had mine done when it was about 15 yrs old. To be honest it didnt really need it, but the bulkhead needed changing and I wanted to give it a respray. So I decided to get a galv bulkhead fitted and thought that whilst its partly stripped down I may as well have the chassis done at the same time. You would no doubt also want to replace other things whilst its stripped, such as the springs/dampers, cross members, etc and the cost would add up...! I think I paid about £4k for my new chassis, bulkhead and extra bits'n'bobs. |
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23rd Apr 2013 6:52pm |
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| db950 Member Since: 01 Feb 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 560 
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The cost of the actual galvanising isn't much.
Generally around £1 per kilo +vat. When on the fork truck at the galvanisers mine weighed in at approx 180kgs for a 110. I paid £180 as a pre-negotiated deal for mine so effectively saved the vat cost. My chassis is 24years old the rear cross member was shot so welded a new one on but surprisingly inside the chassis was clean as a whistle. 1997 Ex-MOD 110, Pop Top Camper, build thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72352.html 2014 Discovery 4 SE Tech Instagram @the110camper |
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23rd Apr 2013 7:14pm |
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| Litch Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 762
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I have had lots of galvanising done now and as already stated, it is actually and very reasonably priced process.
If you are happy that your existing chaissis is in good nick the go for it but if it is in need or some repair then get it done and then have it treated. It will have to be blasted first and then it will be pre-treated (acid dipped) before tha actual galvanising take place so all corrosion should be removed by those processes however they will also show up any defects so be thorough with your inspection and if in any doubt, cut it out and replace. If (as with many of us) you intend doing the work yourself then it could be a relitively inexpensive rebuild, of course there will always be items that should be replaced when you have the vehicle in so many pieces (suspension bushes, brake-lines, clutch etc ect) and that will add to the cost but do it right and end up doing it once. While it is apart I recomend having the bulkhead galvanised as well, no point doing all that work and missing out such a major component. ONE LIFE, GET IT! |
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23rd Apr 2013 8:04pm |
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| udderlyoffroad Member Since: 18 Jul 2011 Location: Bristol Posts: 124
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I’ve actually done this – had my 1989 chassis galvanised…AFTER I’d fully repaired it and replaced any metal of questionable thickness. And I do mean anything suspect. This included the rear cross-member, which meant I could get as much of the loose crud out of the inside of the rails of as possible. Of course this isn’t as good as a new galvanised chassis but I can’t afford that …cost me £350 to get the chassis and various bits done, as opposed £1600-odd for a galv chassis (delivered).
So here you can see the chassis being prepped for its new rear cross-member: 
Preparing to graft the new X-Member on by udderlyoffroad, on Flickr And here is the chassis after galvanising: Chassis After Galving! by udderlyoffroad, on Flickr Of course this only works if your labour is free. I’m totally rebuilding my truck from the ground up – so my financial case is different. But yes I plan on never voluntarily having to sell it. Real trucks don't have spark plugs |
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24th Apr 2013 11:22am |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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or maybe longer, the label on my chassis: [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] which is a MY13 delivered in Dec 12. Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  |
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24th Apr 2013 7:49pm |
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| BigWheels Member Since: 21 Mar 2010 Location: Somerset Posts: 1405 
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Did you have the outside shot blasted first? Land Rover Defenders. 67 years heritage, minimal appearance changes, still going strong all over the world. Not a fashion vehicle, but fashionable to own. Made for the needy, not the greedy. Ta ta Defender |
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28th Apr 2013 11:51am |
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| udderlyoffroad Member Since: 18 Jul 2011 Location: Bristol Posts: 124
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Apologies for taking ages to respond to this, yes I did have the chassis blasted, but like I say, by that point I'd taken chassis back to bare metal and replaced anything vaguely thin.... Real trucks don't have spark plugs
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17th May 2013 10:42pm |
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| BigWheels Member Since: 21 Mar 2010 Location: Somerset Posts: 1405
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I see Richard'd Chassis advertised each month in the glossies. Has anyone bought from them? Do they use new OE chassis or recondition old ones, then galvanise them, or make them completely? Land Rover Defenders. 67 years heritage, minimal appearance changes, still going strong all over the world. Not a fashion vehicle, but fashionable to own. Made for the needy, not the greedy. Ta ta Defender
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18th May 2013 10:23am |
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