 | Home > Africa > 2010 Puma Defender 110 2.4 TDCI |
 
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| Peter-S Member Since: 09 Apr 2013 Location: Zambia Posts: 6   
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Hi Guys
I'm new here but have already learned so much about my Defender just from reading through some of the posts highlighting the problems and the solutions, Thanks. I'm currently living in Ndola, Zambia and recently bought a second-hand 2010 Puma 2.4 with 26000 km on the clock. I collected the Defender from a "Toyota" Dealership in the Pinetown area, KZN, RSA a month ago and began my trip back to Zambia, (I'm pretty sure they were very happy to see it drive off their floor). I have already done about 5000 km in the month that I have owned it and these are the problems that I have experienced so far. 1. On the very first day when I got onto the highway from Durban to Jo'burg the Defender was drifting all over the Highway when approaching 120 km/h. I stopped at a filling station near Escort and deflated the tyres from 2.9 bar to 2 bar. Problem solved and the ride was so much smoother. 
2. I also experienced a problem with a vibration in the front when approaching 120 km/h. When I got to Ndola, Zambia I checked the drive line universals and saw the grease nipples were painted black and had probably never been greased from the day the Defender had been sold in September 2010. I greased all the universals and two days later re-greased them. Sure enough the vibration is gone.
3. Vibration and noise coming from under the seats when approaching 115 km/h but only after about a 30 min drive on the highway. Slackened off the handbrake cable. Problem solved.
By slackening off the handbrake I have also noticed that my fuel consumption has reduced considerably.
4. Today I decided to change my gearbox oil just as a precautionary measure and I'm so glad I did. I drained 4.9 litres of oil from the gear box......  WTF? I checked the posts and found that this seems to be a common problem and is also the cause of the gearbox overheating and boiling the blood in your calf on a hot sunny afternoon. I've topped up the gearbox with the correct amount of oil and will see how my drive goes tomorrow afternoon, from what I've read in the posts I'm sure its going to be a whole lot better.
I guess what I'm trying to say is thanks to all you guys out their for all your help so far, with out you I probably would have been the victim of another Shady LR Dealership that would have overcharged me, kept my defender in their workshop and drained my bank account. |
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14th Apr 2013 3:24pm |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4717 
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Keep on rolling
 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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25th Apr 2013 9:06pm |
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| schuee Member Since: 16 Jul 2012 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 378  
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Hi Peter,
Just read your post, hows it going with the 110 ? Hope your enjoying it, Cheers Keith |
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8th Jun 2013 8:16am |
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| Peter-S Member Since: 09 Apr 2013 Location: Zambia Posts: 6
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Hi Keith,
I've owned the 110 for about two and a half months now and have already done 14000 km and I'm absolutely loving it. All the little problems have been solved although I have gone and filled the gearbox up to the level of the filler plug and that seems to have made a huge difference in selecting gears, much smoother now. I just haven't been able to diagnose the vibration problem coming from the front wheels when slowing down to a standstill or idling along in first gear, so just living with the problem for now. My next move will be to change the steering wheel and fit a cruise controller. I'll keep you posted as the changes take place. Cheers Peter |
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12th Jun 2013 3:34pm |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2645 
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Peter,
Please have a read here: http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php?t=151983 There have been a few Pumas who blew a head gasket due to 'slow overheating' and losing coolant. As one owner describes it: -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged 
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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12th Jun 2013 5:57pm |
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out a lot of its engine coolant a bit more than a month ago. Cause was cylinder head bolts that stretched because of heat which then let exhaust gasses into the engine coolant. This is apparently a common problem with Puma engined Defenders that drive longish distances in high ambient temperatures.
| Peter-S Member Since: 09 Apr 2013 Location: Zambia Posts: 6
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Naks, thanks. most interesting article.
Come to think of it I have noticed on a few occasions some coolant weeping out of the coolant filler cap. The coolant level is still fine and hasn't required topping up yet but it is worrying me. I have spent the weekend analysing the radiator, viscous fan and the cowling and think the problem lies within this area. Here are some interesting fafts about cooling systems. http://www.griffinrad.com/tips.cfm 1. The viscous fan is mounted too far away from the radiator. On the front of the fan is a spiral which is supposed to register the temperature of the coolant and when the radiator stars to get hot the fan should kick in but in order for this to work properly the radiator needs to be mounted as close to the fan as possible or it wont register a hot radiator. Instead of a viscous fan I think LR should have made use of a vistronic fan which is electorally controlled through the engines ECM or ECU. Why LR has gone this route is beyond me and personally I thing and electric fan working off a thermostat in the radiator would be the answer. 2. The Cowling. From what I understand about a cowling is that the fan needs to be mounted correctly inside the cowling in order for it to be able to draw air through the radiator properly. In my case on my Defender the blade seems to be too small for the cowling. The top part 1/3rd of the cowling covers the fan blade completely and the bottom part 2/3rd's barely reaches the fan. For a fan to draw air properly through a cowling the gap between the edge of the blade and the cowling needs to be minimal in order to prevent cavitation, the blade needs to be mounted at least half way inside the cowling or else it wont suck properly through the radiator. The ends of the fan blades inside the cowling are rounded off which will also restrict the amount of air that it can draw, if they were square the fan blade would be more efficient. The cowling is not sealed off properly with lots of openings on the sides and bottom which means that all the air that is being drawn by the fan does not pass through the radiators core which will limit the cooling effect. 3. Air-Con electric fan. The electric fan for the air-con is mounted on the outside which restricts the amount of air that can flow through all the coolers when idling, driving slowly or at speed. 4. Spot Lights. Spots mounted in front of the grill with the air-con fan also cause a restriction to air flow through the coolers. I think the answer to the slow overheating problem would be to fit an electric fan directly to the radiator and a thermostat to the radiator that will switch the electric fan on when the coolant gets hot, this electric fan also needs to be activated by the air-con, this way the little electric fan on the outside can be removed to prevent the restrictions of air flowing through the coolers and then move the spot lights out of the grill area. It would be interesting to hear from anyone else that has experienced this problem and to see if LR has come up with a solution, or if anyone has come up with an electric cooling fan modification. |
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16th Jun 2013 12:13pm |
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