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Clemmo



Member Since: 03 Aug 2012
Location: Mile Oak
Posts: 1217

England 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Bolt specification?...Stainless?.or not?
I currently have the tow bar off my Puma.
The bolts are rust coated. (Nothin new there!)
I thought maybe I could re-assemble using stainless bolts.

Do I need to ensure the bolts are a certain tensile spec?
How do I know?

Cheers
Clemmo Make today a little better than yesterday but not so good as tomorrow....
Defender 90 HT............Pangea Green
BMW X3 Msport............Carbon Black
Mini Electric................Grey. (wow!)
MGB Roadster……..........Vermillion 17k miles
Honda Benly CD200....Maroon --------McLouis Fusio........7.4m of fun


Last edited by Clemmo on 4th Mar 2013 10:22am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #215946 3rd Mar 2013 10:18pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20334

United Kingdom 
Re: Bolt specification?
Clemmo wrote:

Do I need to ensure the bolts are a certain tensile spec?
How do I know?

Cheers
Clemmo

Yes, but I can't remember what exactly now. Confused IIRC it's stamped on the head of the bolts. I too would be interested to know what could be used safely and legally.
Off Topic But I'd also like to know if a spreader plate is really required required or not too Question ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #215947 3rd Mar 2013 10:22pm
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x-isle



Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
I think a min of 8.8 will do you. Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #215953 3rd Mar 2013 10:40pm
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smb



Member Since: 15 Jan 2013
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 1232

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Re: Bolt specification?
Clemmo wrote:
I currently have the tow bar off my Puma.
The bolts are rust coated. (Nothin new there!)
I thought maybe I could re-assemble using stainless bolts.

Do I need to ensure the bolts are a certain tensile spec?
How do I know?

Cheers
Clemmo


Always make sure they are graded 8.8. There will be a lot of Dynamic forces applied to the system(nut, bolt & thread) whether you are accelerating, decelerating, bumps, etc... and that is just in normal driving. You then need to consider the forces applied in an emergency.

8.8 is not that much more expensive as long as you don't go to Landrover, Halfords, etc...
Post #215954 3rd Mar 2013 10:40pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20334

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x-isle wrote:
I think a min of 8.8 will do you.

That's the spec I was trying to think of. I think that's what mine have on at the moment. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #215957 3rd Mar 2013 10:48pm
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Clemmo



Member Since: 03 Aug 2012
Location: Mile Oak
Posts: 1217

England 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
So is that the number stamped on the head of the bolt?
Thumbs Up
Clemmo Make today a little better than yesterday but not so good as tomorrow....
Defender 90 HT............Pangea Green
BMW X3 Msport............Carbon Black
Mini Electric................Grey. (wow!)
MGB Roadster……..........Vermillion 17k miles
Honda Benly CD200....Maroon --------McLouis Fusio........7.4m of fun
Post #215960 3rd Mar 2013 10:52pm
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Laurie



Member Since: 22 Feb 2008
Location: Sussex, England
Posts: 2897

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey
Stainless steel bolts fatigue more easily than HTS bolts.
Better to stick with HTS. 
Post #215962 3rd Mar 2013 11:02pm
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8580

United Kingdom 
Yes.

Some details here http://www.hi-tensilebolt.com.au/Head%20Markings.html

Please note in general terms stainless bolts do not have the same tensile strength as high tensile bolts, they are weaker.

General rule of thumb you do not use stainless in importan high strength areas so not on tow ball.

Common available stainless bolts are A2 70 (700 MPa) whereas standard high tensile bolts are 8.8 or 800 MPa.


Brendan
Post #215963 3rd Mar 2013 11:08pm
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XS Pete



Member Since: 13 Jan 2011
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 632

England 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
As per Brendan's link, you can get A4-80 (800MPa) which is broadly similar in strength to 8.8 high tensile if you want to go stainless, and these were what I used for some of the more 'cosmetic' fixings for my NAS step.

For everything which is subject to shock or is more heavily loaded, as x-isle said go for a minimum of 8.8 high tensile and not stainless, such as the tow ball. I used 12.9 for all of mine including the ball just for peace of mind, and they weren't much more expensive than 8.8 either.

You then just need to make sure that you torque them up (preload) them properly, and the job's a good un.

Pete
Post #216000 4th Mar 2013 8:37am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17363

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
If your vehicle is "M" series Euro-type approved (ie not commercial) then the the towing system must also be type approved and this will include fasteners. Replacing any fasteners other than with like-for-like will therefore technically be illegal.

Personally I don't see any point in not using grade 8.8 BZP or ZPP fasteners; these will match the original and will both strong and durable. There are several issues apart from strength which can affect stainless fasteners (ask anyone who's tried to dismantle a Patriot rack after a few years)!

A normal off-the-shelf "high tensile" fastener will (unless you specifically order/ask for something else) be grade 8.8 unless is it a socket-head capscrew or bolt (hex, spline, or Torx socket) in which case by default it will be grade 12.9, which is in effect the next grade up from 8.8.
Post #216020 4th Mar 2013 10:03am
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Clemmo



Member Since: 03 Aug 2012
Location: Mile Oak
Posts: 1217

England 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
blackwolf wrote:
There are several issues apart from strength which can affect stainless fasteners (ask anyone who's tried to dismantle a Patriot rack after a few years)!


Can you please explain?
Cheers
Clemmo Make today a little better than yesterday but not so good as tomorrow....
Defender 90 HT............Pangea Green
BMW X3 Msport............Carbon Black
Mini Electric................Grey. (wow!)
MGB Roadster……..........Vermillion 17k miles
Honda Benly CD200....Maroon --------McLouis Fusio........7.4m of fun
Post #216022 4th Mar 2013 10:22am
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8580

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A2 stainless is rust resistant in fresh water and is most commonly available stainless bolt.

A4 stainless is rust resistant in salt water marine and more chemical environments.

Note have said rust resistant rather then rust proof.

For specialised environments yes it is possible to get special exotic grades of stainless bolts but not relevant here.

It is possible for stainless to cold weld itself to a bolt IF you have not used some paste. If it cold welds itself then you may well shear the bolt before undoing the nut. OK I do not fully understand the process of cold welding

Quote:

Galling (cold welding) is a form of severe adhesive wear. The mechanism is briefly described. Soft very ductile austenitic stainless steel types tend to gall or seize where high stresses and poor lubrication are present.



Have a read HERE


This is one of the reason Nakatanenga/Entreq has a tube of paste with their stainless kits.



Brendan
Post #216025 4th Mar 2013 10:32am
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
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I don't understand cold welding either but I've managed to do it Embarassed
Post #216027 4th Mar 2013 10:34am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17363

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Exactly as Brendan has said! Throw in a large number of countersunk hex-socket-head capscrews and just about every fastener will end up being destroyed if you have to dismantle the rack.

You will probably have gathered that I am not personally a fan of stainless fasteners for everyday use, although in the right environment and circumstances and used correctly they are great.
Post #216029 4th Mar 2013 10:35am
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BigMike



Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
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Just replace them like for like then spray them with acf50 and every 6 months. job done.
Post #216040 4th Mar 2013 11:25am
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