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Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
try an 'easyout' 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up. |
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BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253 ![]() ![]() |
Yes I have - damned hard work. Drilled it out and had to re-tap the thread. Tried an Easyout, didn't work
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17598 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I am doubtful that an easyout would work, due to the relative sizes of the sheared bolt and easyout, and the use of threadlocker.
An easyout always has a tendency to expand the fragment it's screwed into, and therefore the smaller the hole drilled for it relative to the fragment diameter the better. The fragment is M10, so the root diameter is going to be around 9mm max, so the hole for the easyout couldn't really be more than 5mm, which means a pertty small easyout. The chances of snapping the easyout, especially due to the fact that the fragment is still threadlocked, is too high. At the moment my thoughts are to drill out the stub as close as possible to tapping drill size, burn out any polymer remains by flashing with oxy-propane, then clean the thread with a tap. Might work, perhaps. |
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Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
only thing left is a helicoil then 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up. |
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DefenderOfTheEarth Member Since: 09 Nov 2010 Location: Cornwall, UK Posts: 1304 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
No joy with mine - new hub was needed.
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Ninetenths Member Since: 26 Mar 2009 Location: Sarf Lundun Posts: 161 ![]() ![]() |
James French had to cut mine off with burning gear.
edit; Disco hub is the same apparently so might be easier to source second hand. Pimped black '07 Puma Equally Pimped Black Pick up Truck Rollin deep |
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Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
yes, but what about ya flange bolts ? 2.4 90 XS 1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up. |
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willy eckerslike Member Since: 15 Jun 2009 Location: North yorks Posts: 1789 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
An ordinary HSS drill will probably run of centre due to the stud being harder in the centre, best to use a cobalt drill (keep it cold) on a slow speed. Faling that find a nut slightly too small for the stud and MIG weld the centre to the stud the heat will work wonders.
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BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253 ![]() ![]() |
willys nut idea is a good one. when I did mine it took nearly two hours and several drills. we got it out but it was a real pain.
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SteveT247 Member Since: 21 Feb 2011 Location: Central Posts: 491 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Sorry to go slightly off topic but when did Land Rover switch from the washer to the threadlock? I'm guessing that if you wanted to switch back to washers yourself you would need to get slightly longer bolts than the standard part too?
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17598 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Welding a nut on won't work since the broken fragment is (as usual) recessed in the hole! Cobalt drill aligned with a pilot bush seems the way to go. I will get spare hub on hand just in case first, I think.
I have replaced my drive flange bolts with grade 10.9 (as the originals) hex socket head caps fitted with shakeproof washers and torqued down to the specified figure (all except, of course, the sheared one). I keep an eye on them, but have not had any issues with them loosening. This is in efect the same approach as on series vehicles. I suspect that the change to bolts preloaded with threadlocker was made for economic reasons rather than engineering reasons, since the old V8 vehicles (as far as I know) used spring washers. I think the unit cost of manufacture is lower this way than with the cost of a bolt plus washer. There may be automation reasons too (the bolts may be inserted by robot). The reason for using socket heads, apart from being the easiest way to get 10.9 HT, is that the hex heads will foul Rakeway spacers if not at exactly the correct angle. You do not need longer bolts - use M10 x 45mm grade 10.9 HT, same as the originals, except fit them dry. Make sure that you clean out the old gunk from the hole first, which is a damn sight harder to do than you expect, or else there is a very real risk of shearing or straining the bolt when you fit it. |
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Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I've successfully drilled out sheared drive flange bolts from earlier vehicles but not a Puma, you have my sympathies. Do you have access to reverse [left hand] drill bits as they might be worth a try. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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willy eckerslike Member Since: 15 Jun 2009 Location: North yorks Posts: 1789 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
http://www.langtoninfo.co.uk/showitem.aspx?isbn=0024721305206
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SteveT247 Member Since: 21 Feb 2011 Location: Central Posts: 491 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks ![]() |
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