Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Dynamat as a waterproofing material. |
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appaloosadude Member Since: 17 Oct 2012 Location: Buckinghamshire Posts: 630 |
As per title, If I were to Dynamat the floors of my 110, would it go anywhere WRT sealing water ingress through the various seams and joins especially around the rear seats (110 DCPU) ? Or would the water get in below it and unstick it?
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3rd Jan 2013 11:42am |
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appaloosadude Member Since: 17 Oct 2012 Location: Buckinghamshire Posts: 630 |
Cheers Jim,
Same as I'd planned - to follow original panels as much as possible, but behind the rear seats are a myriad of seams and joints, so would be simpler to dynamat over the top, rather than seal all the seams. From the sounds of it, I think it would be wise to seal the seams with some sort of proprietary sealant.... Si.. Sik... Sika... Sika-something, I'm sure its been mentioned on here... |
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5th Jan 2013 12:41pm |
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barbel jim Member Since: 12 Dec 2012 Location: Northants Posts: 1423 |
Sikaflex-291 marine sealant that was the one I used.
Warm your sheets well, stick and plenty more heat from a heat gun, rolling the dynamat with a roller. I use a wallpaper joiner. you really can apply some pressure. |
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5th Jan 2013 1:03pm |
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ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731 |
Probably a stupid question but if you're never going to see behind the dynamat, why not waterproof the inside panels and seams with rubber-based underseal, e.g. Dunlop S910/S? You might even reduce a broader frequency range due to use of different materials? Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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5th Jan 2013 2:13pm |
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BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253 |
flashband works well as both a waterproofer and a sound deadener. Also much much cheaper than dynamat etc. B&Q sell it. Peel off the backing, heat it gently with a heat gun, apply it then heat a bit more and squash it in.
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6th Jan 2013 10:53am |
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