 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Noisy rear wheel bearing |
 
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8033   
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dont paddocks or similar do a wheel bearing kit?
better still, get Bearmach rather than Britpart and ring Exeter 4x4 and tell them you want all the bits to do the job and they will make it up for you bearings x 2 spacer seal x1 stake nut (or swap to old style) (2 nuts, spacer washer and locking washer) drive member gasket do it sooner rather than later and save the stub Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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27th Aug 2012 5:46pm |
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| HotelCharlie Member Since: 20 Oct 2011 Location: Kavala, Greece Posts: 25  
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Same problem here, no noise yet but oil sprayed on the wheel from the drive member seal.
My understanding is (but I could be wrong): that the differential oil is migrating along the drive shaft and through a tired gasket/seal, washing up the grease from the bearings. I'm planning on doing the job real soon, but i can't figure how to choose or mesure the spacer between the bearings (seven different references TOF100000 to TOF100060, 14.9mm to 15.5mm). Why did they change from the 2 locknuts and bent washer setup? Some mention silicon sealant to replace the paper seal. Any voices against that? |
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27th Aug 2012 10:59pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8033
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i use RTV or similar to seal the surfaces for the drive member.
spacer depends on how much wear/play there is in the bearings. just ditch the spacer and use two washers and a locking washer. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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28th Aug 2012 5:43am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387  
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Easy enough, assemble with the standard (thickest) spacer, then measure endfloat and depending on the reading select appropriate thinner spacer. It's all in the WSM. Yo will needs a dial gauge, but in theory you needed one anyway in the pre-spacer days.
It requires virtually no skill to assemble and is therefore cheaper to build with fewer QC issues in the factory.
Use rtv or blue Hylomar. The paper gasket is not really much use, and there are no particularly compelling reasons to continue with it. Also, consider using spring washers (instead of thread locker) on the six bolts which secure the driving member to the hub. The problem with thread locker is that in time (and with the inevitable ingress of sealant into the hole) the amount of gunge in the hole can build up with the result that the bolts shear either when unscrewing or screwing them in. This is a major pita and often requires a new hub to be fitted. With spring washers and the correct torque there should be no retension issues and this problem won't happen. Note also that these bolts are not standard grade 8.8 but are 10.9 if you have to replace them. I prefer to use hex socket head cap screws since the standard for these is 10.9 and the heads don't foul the wheel centres when using 30mm wheel spacers. If you convert to the old (two nuts) arrangement you don't need the spacer (and of course don't need to torque the hub up so tight). If you keep to the spacer arrangement you can either use the single stake nut or the two nuts/bent washer arrangement. If using the single stake nut, don't buy Britpart since when I made this mistake I found that the threads in the nuts were different to those on the stub axle! |
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28th Aug 2012 11:18am |
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| HotelCharlie Member Since: 20 Oct 2011 Location: Kavala, Greece Posts: 25
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Thank you for the infos,
Looking closely at the drive member bolts made me realise that one of them sheared. Does this really mean a new hub? |
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29th Aug 2012 12:08am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387
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Don't tell anyone but for the last 50,000 miles or so there have only been 5 bolts in my rear offside drive flange for the same reason, so no, it should be quite alright to leave alone indefinitely.
One day I will try to drill it out but I reckon that repairing it is more likely to wreck the hub than doing nothing. |
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29th Aug 2012 7:24am |
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| MD5 Member Since: 02 May 2011 Location: Italy Posts: 143 
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Thanks all for the advice but I must admit that I'm confused to do a DIY repair. I will ask a more experienced people to do the job and while I see what he do I will probably learn something...
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30th Aug 2012 5:10am |
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