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v40mav Member Since: 25 Aug 2008 Location: UK Posts: 206 ![]() ![]() |
Guys - looking for some advise. Defender refused to start this morning.
It's going in for a service today so garage was picking up and when the driver tried to start it turned over but not enough to start - had to use the jump start pack. Defernder has twin Optima yellow tops installed with split charge relay - etc - Winch and All radios and lights / power sockets etc are wired into the Aux battery A few weeks back I jumped in and it refused to start - - At the time it had not moved for 3 weeks as we had been away - I was last out on Sunday. Both yellow tops are fairly new and have never been hard worked - It was colder this morning but not freezing - i guess the question is - is the Yellow top sufficient for starting or should I look at Red top ? or an alternative that fits the space available with the YT. I have asked the garage to check the alternator etc to see if there is any issue with charging - or obvious fault - Defender 110 County SW Disco 3 HSE Freelander 2 HSE - SOLD going back to a car www.lothian4x4response.org |
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RED-DOT Member Since: 29 Jun 2009 Location: stirling Posts: 2363 ![]() ![]() |
If you are taking power direct from one battery (CB, lamp relays etc) the alternator will charge one fully and the other will drain down... i had this bother with a truck i owned and the remedy was to swap them over every couple of months. I think the alternator senses a fully charged battery then cuts the charge off leaving the flat battery flat... 2008 RS4 gone, 123d M Sport, and a Puma 90 XS..
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v40mav Member Since: 25 Aug 2008 Location: UK Posts: 206 ![]() ![]() |
I'm using a voltage sensing split charge relay - same as I have used in previous TD5 and also using in D3 - Never had an issue with either.
This should ensure that the main battery remains fully charged. Defender 110 County SW Disco 3 HSE Freelander 2 HSE - SOLD going back to a car www.lothian4x4response.org |
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K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Only whilst the vehicle is being used. You did state the problem manifested itself after sitting for three weeks! Using an ammeter see if you are drawing any current off the batteries whilst stationary and with the courtesy lights all off. My guess too that something like a relay is drawing current whilst the vehicle is not in use. If it is pull the fuses starting with any auxillary extras that have been fitted one by one until the current draw disappears to reveal the culprit. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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v40mav Member Since: 25 Aug 2008 Location: UK Posts: 206 ![]() ![]() |
Am away to A rally for the weekend so will try this after I'm back
Thanks for the info. ![]() Disco 3 HSE Freelander 2 HSE - SOLD going back to a car www.lothian4x4response.org |
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big steve Member Since: 24 Dec 2009 Location: hertfordshire Posts: 2456 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Check your earth to the chassis ad transferbox iv had similar problems with this yesterday see my thread in the puma section
Regards steve 2015 2.2 tdci hardtop xs 3.2 conversion DONE 238bhp and 707nm torque and thats just the start ;-P hybrid turbo in build -done ready to fit ashcroft atb in transfer box 6 speed auto in build |
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SteveS Member Since: 05 Oct 2010 Location: Devon & Berkshire Posts: 388 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Not sure what split charge system you're using, but with a system like Genesyz for eample the control unit charges the main starting battery only for the first two minutes, then switches both main and auxiliary batteries in parallel to charge both. This should get over the problem stated above. On the Genesyz system you can also press a button and get the full both batteries in parallel for starting, or for winching: otherwise the auxiliary is totally independent on discharging.
If your battery has regularly been fully discharged then you may find its performance substantially reduced. If you regularly leave the vehicle for long periods of time then investigate a smart trickle charger system to keep your batteries in tip top condition. |
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couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I've been having issues with battery drain, usually over a week.
Could someone tell me what current draw I should see when the vehicle is "off" ie no keys in ignition. Mine is a 2001 TD5 with an alarm and (I suspect this may be the problem) an after-market central locking kit. Cheers Simon |
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mobilecentre Member Since: 05 Mar 2012 Location: Evesham Posts: 645 ![]() ![]() |
This does not split the charge, it joins both batteries in parallel, if one is fully charged and the other low it may take a while to charge the flat battery |
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T1G UP Member Since: 08 Dec 2009 Location: Bath Posts: 3101 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
you'll need a 100% decent battery to start a tdi,td5 tdci
whats the CCA of an optima? |
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Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
OK, first off, you need to adjust that setup........ The 'Secondary battery is used for items that need to stay on when the vehicle isn't running. Lights and Winch are used only when the vehicle is running- unless they are auxiliary lights for camping and therefore they go on the secondary battery. As for testing: 1. Start car and check there is 14+ Volts coming from the alternator- if yes that is very good news. 2. Check the battery voltages off the car- if one is 0v and the other is 6-8v I would say you have a completely F**ked battery and it is trying to take the other with it. I am guessing they are AGM batteries? If so they probably need a good cycle through a really good charger. I use a CTEK 5.0 (about £50-60) which has a setting for AGM and will keep them in tip top condition- you could also leave it on charge whilst you go away. Hope this helps a little, Glyn ![]() ![]() *EDIT* Just like this (just ignore all the wavy lines) ![]() Click image to enlarge |
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