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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582  
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Isolation switches.
My guess is that the vehicle has been winched equipped in the past and someone has removed winches and cabling. Brendan |
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18th Jan 2014 5:18pm |
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| dondiddy Member Since: 13 Nov 2012 Location: Hamilton Posts: 224  
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Hi Dan, They are both battery cut out switches. The black one works by inserting a removable red key and then turning it to the on position. Like you suggested they may have at some point been used as a means of disconnecting the battery as a security device or your vehicle has had a winch fitted at some point. Hope this helps!
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18th Jan 2014 5:19pm |
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| danridge Member Since: 28 May 2013 Location: Bath Posts: 438 
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Thanks guys. Could I use the white one as a quick battery disconnect?
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18th Jan 2014 6:32pm |
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| Leenorthants Member Since: 08 Sep 2013 Location: Silverstone(ish) Posts: 856
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Yes that's what they are used for
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18th Jan 2014 6:44pm |
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| TJ101 Member Since: 30 May 2007 Location: Taunton Somerset Posts: 3750  
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As said,, Battery kill switch, and a winch isolator switch
Get one of the below for the kill switch,  California F1, 75th 110 "Kermit", 50th Ann V8, 90 V8 Hybrid, 55 Series 1
Main Brian James Trailer Dealer for South West UK |
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18th Jan 2014 6:52pm |
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| danridge Member Since: 28 May 2013 Location: Bath Posts: 438
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Great Been meaning to do some security with the battery.
Is there any reason why I can't wire the battery to the existing switch (black one, winch isolator) ? I know it's not as secure as a key but the seat pops of anyway and if it's easy to do I'll use it all the time If not then the key it is. For either of them, there a right and wrong way to wire the positive/negative? |
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18th Jan 2014 7:37pm |
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| dondiddy Member Since: 13 Nov 2012 Location: Hamilton Posts: 224
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Dan, Normally it is the positive lead that is isolated. You need to get a new positive cable with a ring terminal at one end to run from the battery positive to either post on the isolator. Your existing battery cable (the one you have removed from the battery)then needs a ring terminal fitted if it doesn`t already have one and then this cable is fitted to the other terminal on the isolator. It doesn`t matter which way round they go onto the isolator as this is a basic isolator without a feed terminal to supply your radio, clock etc. Although you are working with the positive lead it is good practice to disconnect the negative lead at the same time to avoid the possibility of a short. Hope this helps!
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18th Jan 2014 8:08pm |
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| danridge Member Since: 28 May 2013 Location: Bath Posts: 438
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Cheers Don
So like this (before and after)? Click image to enlarge |
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18th Jan 2014 9:41pm |
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| dondiddy Member Since: 13 Nov 2012 Location: Hamilton Posts: 224
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Spot on!
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18th Jan 2014 10:03pm |
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| danridge Member Since: 28 May 2013 Location: Bath Posts: 438
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Cool thanks! As long as I only use this as a security device and not to kill the engine this will not affect the alternator right?
Coming home: Pull up, ignition off, keys out, isolate battery, jump out. Leaving Home: Jump in, connect battery, keys in and fire her up |
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18th Jan 2014 10:09pm |
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| dondiddy Member Since: 13 Nov 2012 Location: Hamilton Posts: 224
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Yes , Thats the correct sequence. You should never turn the isolator to the off position when the engine is running as it may damage the alternator. The only issue you may have is that your radio if coded will loose the code and the clock if fitted will loose the correct time.
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18th Jan 2014 10:24pm |
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| danridge Member Since: 28 May 2013 Location: Bath Posts: 438
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Its an after market stereo with no code so that's ok. I'll have to live with the clock. It was hours out when I bought the truck and I though it was broken but I set the time and its been fine. Must have been out cause of the isolator.
Right - if you haven't had enough already  here's the other one I couldn't work out. Also fitted to batter box wall but close to the transmission tunnel and I can see where the wiring goes.
Any idea? Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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18th Jan 2014 10:47pm |
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| Lou Sparts Member Since: 15 Apr 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 1501 
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Not too good with electrickery but could you use a wire from the "in" side of the isolator to the "out" side of the isolator with an in line fuse to give power for clock radio etc but would blow the fuse if attempting to start the car with the isolator in the "off" position.Just a thought. 2005 Td5 90 XS
Steve |
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18th Jan 2014 10:54pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582
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To keep codes in the radio, clock running etc put say a 10 amp fuse across the contacts.
If any attempt is made to start the engine fuse will blow. Brendan |
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18th Jan 2014 10:55pm |
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