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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Td5 Clutch Master Cylinder
My Clucth Master Cylinder has started to leak so before it fails completey time to replace it. (Non ABS)
Having not done one on a Defendee before any hints, tips, tricks to getting the job done?
Am I best to measure the current threaded rod and adjust the new one to the same? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #148884 6th Jun 2012 12:04pm
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alanhid



Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: South Lanarkshire Scotland
Posts: 221

Scotland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey
Pretty straightforward, if I can do it anyone can! Yes measure the thread and set the new one to it, though still might need some minor adjustment when fitted. Main tip would be to remove the bonnet for better access. Life is not a rehearsal!
Def 90td5 CSW xs 2006
Post #148930 6th Jun 2012 6:25pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Cheers for the reply. Part ordered from defenderbits today and parts are in the post. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #148940 6th Jun 2012 7:20pm
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alanhid



Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: South Lanarkshire Scotland
Posts: 221

Scotland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey
There's a good picture guide on landyzone that I found useful. Life is not a rehearsal!
Def 90td5 CSW xs 2006
Post #148958 6th Jun 2012 8:08pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
I shall have a look on landyzone 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #148962 6th Jun 2012 8:30pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
I have replaced the clutch master cylinder today. The pedal is 140mm from the floor with no mats to the bottom of the pedal.

I have bled the clutch and now the biting point is very close to the floor, only have to bring my foot up a fraction and its off!

How do I adjust the biting point so its not that close to the floor? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #149481 10th Jun 2012 12:09pm
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bob neville



Member Since: 30 Apr 2009
Location: Marbella
Posts: 3248

Spain 2001 Defender 90 Td5 SW Epsom Green
Here you go, bit in bold text Thumbs Up

http://www.lro.com/forum3/viewtopic.php?f=...mp;start=0

Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !!
2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold
2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold
2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member
2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days !
Post #149498 10th Jun 2012 1:36pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Cheers for the link, having read through the article, I'm sure my adjustment screw (5 & 4) is lower down and more a pedal stopper at the bottom of the travel.

How do you check the free play of 1.5mm? I peeled back the rubber cup and could not see a way of checking the free play. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #149600 10th Jun 2012 7:35pm
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bob neville



Member Since: 30 Apr 2009
Location: Marbella
Posts: 3248

Spain 2001 Defender 90 Td5 SW Epsom Green
I've got another document at work that I will dig out Monday. I am sure it goes into more detail, in fact it is part of same procedure for a TDCi.

Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !!
2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold
2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold
2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member
2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days !
Post #149605 10th Jun 2012 7:42pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Cheers Bob. For now it will do, it drives OK but would prefer the pedal a bit higher on the biting point 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #149607 10th Jun 2012 7:44pm
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changill



Member Since: 13 Dec 2008
Location: North West - Preston/Lancaster
Posts: 27

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
I changed mine recenctly as well. The stop in the drawing on LRO is not there on a TD5. That like you say is more of a pedal stopper. I messed about with the pushrod lucknuts for sometime but ended up with it being quite quickly off.....just like yours. I bled it 3 times, but it was still the same. I've driven it for a couple of months and either its got better or I have got used to it.
I tried raising the pedal, but then couldn't get a clutch.

Sorry I can't be of more help.

Chan Only Alcohol Can Save me Now

Nanocom Available in the North West
Post #149724 11th Jun 2012 11:32am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Glad its not just me then!
I adjusted the clutch so it did'nt feel notchy going into the gears. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #149736 11th Jun 2012 12:54pm
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bob neville



Member Since: 30 Apr 2009
Location: Marbella
Posts: 3248

Spain 2001 Defender 90 Td5 SW Epsom Green
This is the bit from the document I have at work. Not sure if it helps but it does apply to TD5 and TDCi apparently.

One thing I looked at and you could check if you want to move the position is the clutch pedal position adjustment.
If you take a look just below the coolant container you will find a square box with six x head screws and a switch bracket attached.
Undo the six screws and move away the switch bracket,
you'll find a nyloc nut on one end of a thread and two half, lock nuts on the top end.
depending on which way you need to go, either lengthen or shorten the stroke by losening and moving the nuts,
check the pedal for "grab" position and tighten up when happy.
Be careful when putting the plate back on as there is a rubber seal.
The bottom lefthand screw is a bit of a pain to get at but it can be done using a rachet type screw bit.


Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !!
2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold
2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold
2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member
2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days !
Post #149741 11th Jun 2012 1:54pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Cheers Bob, that is pretty much what I followed, the bit I couldn't suss was setting the play of 1.5mm in the push-rod. The drive to work today went OK. So will give it a few days and re-bleed/re-adjust and see what I can achieve. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #149772 11th Jun 2012 5:44pm
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