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ashfordsv

Member Since: 13 Mar 2009
Location: Wicklow
Posts: 82

Starting and cutting out issues

Can anyone help me with this? after 6 years of trouble free motoring my td5 is acting up a bit!

I have 2 problems that are probably related to the same fault.

The first is that sometimes it won't start, it may take about 5 minutes of turning it on and off to get it going, after which the engine light will come on for a minute or so. Usually it runs fine but the odd time it stalls.

The second problem is that sometimes it stalls while driving but instead of cutting out and freewheeling, it feels as though the brake is being put on suddenly (Not a comfortable feeling!), the truck usually recovers quickly and the engine light comes on for a minute or 2. After that all is fine again and can stay that way for a few days!

Any advise on this would be much appreciated, cheers.

16th May 2012 10:33pm

JWL

Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

Could be the well known gremlin..........Injector seals and most likely oil in the injector loom and down to the ecu. Pretty much the same symptoms I had a couple of years ago. Not a wallet emptying fix as long as you don't take it to a rob dog garage

16th May 2012 10:38pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5729

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver

I would suggest checking the relays under the drivers seat and tighten any terminals that look loose, and keep an eye for any corrosion on them.

Andy

17th May 2012 6:17am

bmc054

Member Since: 02 Jul 2011
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 32

HI
This happened to me and as mentioned above it was the cable from the fuel relay under the drivers seat which had frayed causing an intermittent fault sometimes my 90 would not travel above 50 mph
Bob

17th May 2012 6:32am

ashfordsv

Member Since: 13 Mar 2009
Location: Wicklow
Posts: 82

Thanks all for your quick replies

i'll start with the wiring under the seat and go from there.

17th May 2012 8:38am

Martin
Site Admin

Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6611

2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red

Probably both related, and may be a fuelling issue.

Does the tank pump whirr/whine when you switch the ignition on or not?

1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top

2015 D90 XS SW

17th May 2012 9:27am

landyman37

Member Since: 22 Jan 2012
Location: west midlands
Posts: 153

Re: Starting and cutting out issues

When you say it don't start does the glow plug light come on when it will not start ?

17th May 2012 11:19am

big steve

Member Since: 24 Dec 2009
Location: hertfordshire
Posts: 2456

2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Montalcino Red

I had similar issues to this many moons ago on my old td5 after putting a new fuel pump in I replaced fuel lines and all sorts in the end it was all to do with a non return valve stuck open and a bleed valve not working which are both on the top of the fuel filter housing I think there about £50 but if all your other bits that you have been told to look at fail try it

The reason your constantly turning the vehicle other to start is that there is no fuel up at the engine which reverts back to the non return valve

Steve 2015 2.2 tdci hardtop xs
3.2 conversion DONE 238bhp and 707nm torque and thats just the start ;-P
hybrid turbo in build -done ready to fit
ashcroft atb in transfer box
6 speed auto in build

17th May 2012 11:36am

MartinK

Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey

JWL wrote:
Could be the well known gremlin..........Injector seals and most likely oil in the injector loom and down to the ecu. Pretty much the same symptoms I had a couple of years ago.

This would be my thought too. Injector seals for the starting issues, and injector loom for the cutting-out issue.

If it's injector seals, you may be able to hear bubbles/air in the fuel system during priming.

Having the Injector seals done on my TD5 (by my local, and very good indie) was around £200 with VAT.

The parts are cheap (part numbers = O rings - ERR7004, Copper washers - ERR6417) but it's a couple of hours labour, and then plus vat...

You should be able to check for oil in the ECU yourself... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)

17th May 2012 11:46am

Naks

Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2645

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White

Re: Starting and cutting out issues

ashfordsv wrote:
The first is that sometimes it won't start, it may take about 5 minutes of turning it on and off to get it going, after which the engine light will come on for a minute or so. Usually it runs fine but the odd time it stalls.

Sounds like the Crank Position sensor? --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged

Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
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17th May 2012 11:52am

ashfordsv

Member Since: 13 Mar 2009
Location: Wicklow
Posts: 82

Thanks again for the replys gents!

Typical, the truck drove perfectly all day today, this might happen for a few days

I checked for oil in the wiring loom at the ecu but it's all clean in there. There was no loose wires either.

The tank whirrs before start up, however i do remember that it was quiet on the times that i couldn't get it to start! Could this be a fuel pump problem? if not, its either then

Injector seals and Injector loom, or

Non return valve stuck open and bleed valve not working.

Cheers again for the advice

18th May 2012 12:04am

JWL

Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

If it was quiet when it wouldn't start then it wasn't working. relays under the seat are first call there then.

18th May 2012 12:10am

JSG

Member Since: 12 Jul 2007
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2412

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

Agreed, I had the same problem with the TD5 TR and was a slightly loose relay under the driver's seat

John

http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk

2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS

18th May 2012 6:24am

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5729

As above,
no pump noise = pump not working, electrics under seat
Noisy pump = injector seals, as pump circulates aerated fuel, new seals required
Normal pump noise = different problem, drink more

Andy

Oh and when you having problem, keep an eye on alarm/imobiliser light, may be a cause

18th May 2012 6:37am

Andrew DefenderBits

Member Since: 15 May 2012
Location: Somerset
Posts: 43

As above, start with the relays, then pull the plug off the ECU and see if there is oil in there and if so flush out with brake cleaner and go from there, if so then change the injector loom to stop any more getting in and re clean once a month until it is no longer oily, next would be fuel pump or crank sensor.

18th May 2012 11:23am

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