↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home > Tdi > Rear Corss member
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 1
Print this entire topic · 
iPints



Member Since: 15 Jun 2012
Location: SC
Posts: 294

United States 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
Rear Corss member
Hello all I am new to this forum......

I have had my defender now for 5 years and last year i stripped back my rear cross member and then painted it with "Kurust" then an red oxide and undercoat and finally two coats of Smoothrite flat matt black....
A year on and the rust is back.. Evil or Very Mad ..any ideas what I should do next?I dont really want to get it replaced as it isn't that bad yet......
Post #150429 15th Jun 2012 10:09am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Zagato
Site Supporter


Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5013

United Kingdom 
Welcome...

Ku-Rust and most similar treatments will only acid treat rust on the very surface, it doesn't penetrate very well, you have to make sure you take the rust right back! I would get it right back to bare metal and do as you did before so the Ku-Rust will act on any surface rust pitting that isn't too deep.

No need for red oxide and Ku-Rust though, Smoothrite will go straight over the Ku-Rust, the red oxide isn't doing anything in your case, (never does much anyway! Whistle acid converting treatments will stop it dead, red oxide just slows it down and it will all have to be done again eventually as you found out!).

Could try Fertan next Thumbs Up

http://www.fertan.co.uk/Item-Fertan%20rust%20converter.htm

No need to sand/shot blast apparently Very Happy
Post #150445 15th Jun 2012 11:45am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Send e-mail Reply with quote
custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20359

United Kingdom 
As old Zag said above Razz it would probably be a good idea to strip all of the old paint off as well so go right down to the bare 'fresh' steel so there is no paint or rust left anywhere on the whole thing. For longevity maybe a clear coat / lacquer would help as of course and slight chip or knock into the paint to the steel will of course let the rust to get in and it will happen all over again. Thumbs Up

Steve $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #150450 15th Jun 2012 12:52pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
iPints



Member Since: 15 Jun 2012
Location: SC
Posts: 294

United States 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
Thank you both for very quick response.

I did bring the whole thing back to bare metal but I think the areas of rusting needed more work.....I will try again when we get some decent weather!!

So maybe next year then..... Rolling with laughter
Post #150466 15th Jun 2012 2:29pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20359

United Kingdom 
iPints wrote:
Thank you both for very quick response.

I did bring the whole thing back to bare metal but I think the areas of rusting needed more work.....I will try again when we get some decent weather!!

So maybe next year then..... Rolling with laughter

A grinder to start taking care not to take too much off or not to gouge it into the steel. And some sand fine sand paper to take out the imperfections Thumbs Up $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #150481 15th Jun 2012 3:00pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Post Reply
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 1
All times are GMT

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DEFENDER2.NET RSS Feed - All Forums