 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Door Hinge Bolt Help |
 
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471   
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Not really, just replace with a new captive nut and remember to copperslip the threads - while you are at it buy some extras for spares! Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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24th Mar 2012 3:05pm |
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| taffyscouser Member Since: 08 Jan 2012 Location: Bath Posts: 28
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Maybe having a dull moment here but how do you get in there to replace the captive nut?
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24th Mar 2012 3:14pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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No dull moment at all. Having replaced my door hinges recently I have just what you're after.....
You need a new 'captive nut clip' available from your dealer, remove the remaining bolt and swing the hinge away, prise off the clip without the nut and replace.....Job jobbed....Excuse picture quality, Cr4pberry..... 
Door hinges held captive by these....  Click image to enlarge If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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24th Mar 2012 3:26pm |
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| taffyscouser Member Since: 08 Jan 2012 Location: Bath Posts: 28
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Thank god for that. I had all sorts of nightmare scenarios going through my mind. I take it by removing the other bolt and swinging the hinge away access is easy. Thank you for all the help here folks.
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24th Mar 2012 3:46pm |
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| Green Machine Member Since: 19 Nov 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1226 
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See here for a useful guide which shows you what is going on behind the hinges - albeit a rather outdated and rusty example! When I replaced my bolts for stainless one of the captive nuts in the top hinge decided to become non-captive
 , it's on the list of things to resolve at some point. If you ease the leading edge of the door card away from the door, you can get at the nuts to be able to fold the hinge back and get into the A pillar (you might have to take the door handle escutcheon off, and also the pull handle). 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green |
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24th Mar 2012 5:34pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Soak the bloody lot front and back in ACF-50 and Dinitrol, job done
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24th Mar 2012 6:14pm |
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| taffyscouser Member Since: 08 Jan 2012 Location: Bath Posts: 28
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Just before I remove any more bolts, a quick check. I take it I can remove the remaining lower bolt on the top hinge, bulkhead side and swing it back out of the way to access the J nut. Puma 2.2 2012 and rightly scared of causing any further probs if I remove the last bolt on the top hinge. Is theer a need to remove the whole hinge or can I just remove the two bulkhead side bolts and swing it out of the way to get at the captive nuts ( J nuts) and their holding clips. Just ordered a set of 10 for £7 off e bay.
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25th Mar 2012 9:17pm |
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| WarPig Member Since: 04 Dec 2009 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1748  
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Just tremove the remaining bulkhead bolt. Ensure the door is fully closed so that it is supported. Whan I replaced mine I used stainless captive nuts, and tied a piece of string to it incase it fell inside the cavity. Then cut the string off when done
Infact I found the rectangular hole in the bulkhead wasnt large enough to fit the second nut, so I had to slide the bottom nut all the way down as far as it would go, fit the upper nut, then readjust them both so the holes aligned. Ensure you buy the correct captive nut, as the older versions have imperial thread rather than metric. Ask me how I know!!  |
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25th Mar 2012 10:03pm |
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