 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Rusting Rear Panel |
 
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| Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266   
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do you mean the rear cross member ? 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up. |
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18th Mar 2012 2:33pm |
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| brightondefender Member Since: 14 Jan 2012 Location: East Sussex Posts: 97 
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thats exactly what I mean - I just could not for the life of me remember what the hell it was called when I typed the post!  |
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18th Mar 2012 2:34pm |
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| Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266
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you need to sand it back to bare metal then a good coat of etch primer and finish off with Halfords satin black. 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up. |
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18th Mar 2012 2:37pm |
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| brightondefender Member Since: 14 Jan 2012 Location: East Sussex Posts: 97
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Thanks Grockle I will give that a go when the weather gets better. |
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18th Mar 2012 2:40pm |
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| Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266
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 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up. |
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18th Mar 2012 3:13pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Living near the sea won't help I'm afraid the sea air makes everything rust, even metal stuff you have in your garage.
The outside of the rear cross-member will only show superficial rust the important bit is underneath, behind and inside the rear cross-member, if you are keeping your vehicle for any length of time it would be very wise to have it and the whole underside treated with Dinitrol or the like if you havn't already done so
Careful with sanding even tiny marks show up on the cross-member. I would use a fine grade wire wool to get any surface rust off then treat the rust with a rust converter such as Ku-rust. This will kill and stop any further rusting, you can then just spray on top but mask it all of well, spray can blow in the wind and go everywhere. Your local body shop would probably spray it for for £3-40 to make it look professional  |
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18th Mar 2012 3:26pm |
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| Jonno Member Since: 06 Mar 2012 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 234 
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I went for overkill on mine and sprayed all surfaces of the rear crossmember with Dinitrol 3125 last year. It has set fairly hard and does not come off if you lightly rub against it, the finish also looked good until I rustproofed inside the back door and it dripped all over it! There is no visible rust after the winter so I think it has done some good. My plan is to probably have this steamed off every year or so and re treat. |
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18th Mar 2012 7:57pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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3125 is the cavity wax Jonno, isn't it all sticky. ACF-50 would be a better option if you want to treat in a similar fashion and not paint, it actively kills the rust and will polish it up at the same time
Oh and it will strip off your Dintrrol if you did want to change, makes a good cleaner/degreaser etc. |
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18th Mar 2012 8:09pm |
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| Jonno Member Since: 06 Mar 2012 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 234
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Your right Zag it is the cavity version, I gave it a try as I had loads left, it was a bit tacky for a few days but it seems almost candle wax hard at the moment, I dare say if it gets left in the sun during the summer that may change! Not perfect but it will keep the rust away, think I will try the ACF 50 if I strip the 3125 off this year, either a steam clean or white spirit should clean it off easily. |
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18th Mar 2012 8:14pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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That's good to know, you never know what happens to it once it has been sprayed in the cavitites, the forum needs one of those cameras you can poke down crevices. Members could borrow it with a deposit when looking at second hand motors and checking on rust proofing work |
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18th Mar 2012 8:19pm |
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