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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
Bike weight vs human weight?
Please can someone (e.g. MTB biker) settle an argument between a colleague and me?

If I try to make cycling easier by buying a bike weighing 4kg less than the one I currently have, wouldn't me keeping my old bike and losing 4kg off my lard-ar$e have the same effect (assuming same fitness level)?

He insists a newer, lighter bike is far more important than the weight of the rider. I'd rather spend the money I'd save on mods. Anyone?

Cheers
Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #217967 11th Mar 2013 9:27am
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taffrican



Member Since: 14 Jan 2011
Location: Living room
Posts: 624

Wales 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Java Black
Matt, a lighter bike will be easier to handle if you are riding at speed and occasionally in the air jumping over obstacles etc. but if you were a little lighter and fitter you might be able to handle the heavier bike. But on the whole all the guys in work, who are Mountain bike freaks (I mean that in a respectful way Laughing ) reckon the lighter bike is the way to go Thumbs Up
Hope this helps Thumbs Up Optimists say the glass is half full..
Pessimists say the glass is half empty..
Engineers say the glass is twice the size it needs to be!
Post #217971 11th Mar 2013 9:54am
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6306

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
i suppose there's similaritys to a car.....

all well and good making the car lighter ie by 20kg but the effect of losing 20kg off unsprung weight and rotating mass ie suspension uprights and wheels will be far better.




I think Embarassed
Post #217977 11th Mar 2013 10:36am
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
Aha Thumbs Up

We hadn't discussed jumping anything or travelling at speed (two things I always try to avoid), so I guess you and he have a valid point... not that I'm going to tell him Twisted Evil

Many thanks
Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #217978 11th Mar 2013 10:38am
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x-isle



Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
No, it's not the same.

A heavier bike and lighter rider weighing the same as a lighter bike and heavier rider is not the same.

The dymanics are very different due to the weight being high up and distributed around the bike.

There's a lot more to it than that too, as it's all about where the weight is at any particular time whilst completing a technique.

I've spent a long time coaching the dynamics of weight distrubution within a Mountain Bike.

Of course, then there is the problem of a Mountain Bike that weighs too little.........sometimes weight is your friend. Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #217981 11th Mar 2013 10:50am
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davew



Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

England 1990 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Auto Rioja Red
I'm "on the fence" as I think it depends where the weight is.

You see a lot of MTB riders who look to save grammes on components when losing a kilo of their own weight would be better for them and a LOT cheaper. This also applies to Land Rovers of course Smile

IMV the only place that weight saving on the bike gives a real gain are on items that you have to move directly. The wheelset, for example, is well worth saving weight on as the lighter the wheelset the less mass you have to spin. Having gone from a pretty heavy wheelset to a relatively light wheelset I noticed a real difference.

Changing from a heavy frame to a medium weight frame made less of a difference, barely noticeable in fact in most conditions.

A lighter bike is always going to be better than a heavier bike for control and response but given a limited budget I don't think it's as beneficial as the elite would have you believe and not worth paying double for a component that weighs a few g less than the next model down. The 2 out of 3 rule always applies with the highly engineered MTB parts - cheap, light and strong - pick any 2. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/
Post #217983 11th Mar 2013 11:01am
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x-isle



Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
It's not just about the spinning bits, it's the weight distribution for control, cornering, drop offs etc..... The entire weight of the bike has a big impact on the control part.

A light frame with a heavy rider distributing their weight around the bike is very different than a light rider distributing their weight around a heavy frame.

Of course, you can't also compare just a light frame and a heavy frame. A well balanced, well built heavy frame will perform far better than a cheap badly designed/built light frame.

I have a few MTBs all with various weights from 23lbs to 36lbs. Which one handles better? The lightweight XC bike is rubbish on rough stuff as it's far too light and just bounces around. The 36lbs Freeride bike is far better in that situation. Get on the flat or a climb? The 23lbs bike wins.

The "just get it lighter" argument falls into "horses for courses". Also, you have to remember that MTB bikes are very different to Road bikes in the way the weight matters.

Then one last thing, there is Mountain Biking and Mountain Biking..... If Mountain Biking is riding around a few parks, lakes or maybe some forest fire roads, then a lot of the dynamics don't come into play. If you're blasting around rocky tracks in the Peak District for instance, then the dynamics really come into play. Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #217987 11th Mar 2013 11:29am
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me@td5.org



Member Since: 16 Jan 2011
Location: Warwick
Posts: 856

2000 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
I am as light at I can healthly be so I spend a lot of time trying to save weight on the bike.

I've owned 13lb MTBs but these days I focus more on function. 17lb gives the right balance for me. Too light a tyre will punture easily, you also need to know it won't break underneth you!

Rotational wright is the most important area on a bike, espcially of a 29" wheel. Much more important than the frame.
Post #218002 11th Mar 2013 12:32pm
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x-isle



Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
me@td5.org wrote:

I've owned 13lb MTBs but these days I focus more on function. 17lb gives the right balance for me. Too light a tyre will punture easily, you also need to know it won't break underneth you!


Shocked Shocked 13lb MTB??? WOWZER! You must be talking close on £20K at least for a bike that light! 13lb Road Bike would be £10K! Was the frame filled with helium?

17lb MTB, still WOWZER! That's around the Pro level weight. Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #218031 11th Mar 2013 2:00pm
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WarPig



Member Since: 04 Dec 2009
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 1748

England 1996 Defender 110 300 Tdi USW Bonatti Grey
me@td5.org wrote:
I am as light at I can healthly be so I spend a lot of time trying to save weight on the bike.


Im as heavy as I can healthily be Very Happy
Post #218071 11th Mar 2013 5:00pm
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ken



Member Since: 18 Aug 2009
Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !!
Posts: 4328

United Kingdom 
Cant you just fit an engine to make it better Thumbs Up
Post #218080 11th Mar 2013 5:30pm
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
WarPig wrote:
me@td5.org wrote:
I am as light at I can healthly be so I spend a lot of time trying to save weight on the bike.


Im as heavy as I can healthily be Very Happy

+1 Sad

So, thanks to reading all of the above, I could argue that being a fatty on a feather light bike was probably not a sensible direction for me. It was agreed that, as punishment for my excesses, I should ride my 17kg steel dinosaur (which I love) until I lost 17kg in weight and then buy something less rusty Thumbs Up

I'm still jealous though, as my son just bought a new 12kg beauty and he doesn't even need to lose weight Mad

My wife wants an E-bike "to get fitter" - I give up Rolling Eyes

Thanks again to all for the great info Bow down Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #218120 11th Mar 2013 7:41pm
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me@td5.org



Member Since: 16 Jan 2011
Location: Warwick
Posts: 856

2000 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
x-isle wrote:
me@td5.org wrote:

I've owned 13lb MTBs but these days I focus more on function. 17lb gives the right balance for me. Too light a tyre will punture easily, you also need to know it won't break underneth you!


Shocked Shocked 13lb MTB??? WOWZER! You must be talking close on £20K at least for a bike that light! 13lb Road Bike would be £10K! Was the frame filled with helium?

17lb MTB, still WOWZER! That's around the Pro level weight.


Not quite that much and it was a rigid single speed! There was a lot of carbon, chainring included, Cost me about £6000 in total back in 2003. The frame was Steel! Columbus Foco, and it's still in one piece, although it's been hung up for many years now.
Post #218123 11th Mar 2013 7:50pm
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