 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Rear wheel bearings |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17634   
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Replying to my own question, the section on front hubs is better illustrated and has answered my question! Still no cross section though.
I have found on several occasions that the illustrations in the Puma manual have been lifted from earlier manuals and are completely wrong! Clearly the manual has been assembled with the same level of care as the vehicle! |
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17th Jun 2011 12:32pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2456  
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IIRC there is just one nut with a sucuring little flap. Strictly you would need a new one after you remove it. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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18th Jun 2011 4:15am |
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| mermoto Member Since: 21 Sep 2011 Location: Essex Posts: 326 |
Just to ressurect this thread, I am interested to check the bearing on my wheels in the future and would also like to see a picture of the Puma hub detailing the differences compared with the old one. Anyone got any pictures/description? Very good pictures here of the old type http://www.repairmylandrover.co.uk/defende...l-bearings Mermoto |
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4th Feb 2012 3:29pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17634
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The cross-section is similar between the old and the new, however the differences on the new are:
1) there is a single nut which incorporates a malleable collar on the outboard side. The nut is single-use only. 2) the stub axle now has a flat machined on it, rather than a slot machined along it. The nut is locked after torqueing by biffing the collar down onto the flat. 3) there is an tubular "idiot spacer" fitted between the inner and outer bearing inner races. The spacer comes in a range of thicknesses and is selected on assembly to allow the correct end-float on the bearing when the nut is torqued down (and if I recall correctly the torque setting is something like 80lbft). 4) ultimately the nut (and hence hub assembly) is retained on the stub axle by a combination of the collar being staked and the torque being correct. I have known at least one example of a hub that was correctly assembled where the nut has worked loose in service. 5) there is no provision whatsoever for adjusting for wear. It there's any wear, it's a new bearing job (although it may be possible to adjust for some wear by selecting a different spacer - or even grinding the original spacer down provided that you had access to a suitable surface grinder; it would have to be accurate or the bearings won't be parallel). Overall it is not an improvement in mechanical terms, but I am sure that it is cheaper to make and removes the skill level required for correct factory assembly. it is not possible simply to revert to the old arrangement (two nuts and a locking washer), unless the stub axle was changed as well. It is also quite unnatural and surprisingly disturbing if you are an "old school" Landrover owner (like me) who grew up with Series 1s, to be torquing a wheelnut to 80lbft. Not natural! |
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6th Feb 2012 11:28am |
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| Fifth Horseman Member Since: 08 Mar 2011 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 330 
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If you want peace of mind I don't see why the arrangement used on the later TD5s (two washers for the 'D' shaped axle and two locknuts) can't be used, they share the same stub axle hub, bearings and spacer with the Puma. it seems that only the locknut and washer are different. This changed to the same arrangement as on the Puma (single washer and locking nut) at the end of TD5 production.
You may be able to change spacer to compensate for wear as they come in 0.1mm size increments (14.9-15.5mm) Last edited by Fifth Horseman on 6th Feb 2012 7:38pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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6th Feb 2012 7:16pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8185  
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you dont need to change stub axles to change back to the older two nut and lock washer design. just get the right washers for the stub you have, either a flat surface or a toothed washer. Cheers
James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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6th Feb 2012 7:28pm |
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| Fifth Horseman Member Since: 08 Mar 2011 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 330
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Part numbers are FTC5241 (inner) / FTC3179 (outer) for the washers and FRC8700 for the locknuts.
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6th Feb 2012 7:38pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17634
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First class info, thanks very much!
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6th Feb 2012 9:17pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2456
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Many people just remove the spacer. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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8th Feb 2012 11:34am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17634
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I had thought of doing this, but didn't really want to rely on the crappy collared nut as the sole retention method if it wasn't torqued down hard. Knowing that there is a two-nut-plus-tab-washer option that will fit the later style stub axle makes this a sensible option. Once again the collective knowledge of the Defender2 Forum comes up with the goods! |
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8th Feb 2012 12:52pm |
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