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BJH



Member Since: 14 Apr 2022
Location: West Wales
Posts: 17

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Mo Murphy wrote:

Here's my setup - a bit of wire and a big relay .... and a fuse. I've been using it on this 90 for 12 years, the same on the 90 previous to that for 8 years and the hybrid prior to that for 3 years.


Nice! Thanks for sharing your setup. OK, maybe I am overthinking the charging requirements after all.

Mo Murphy wrote:

Its used for the fridge, scene lights, USB sockets, dash cam, heated mirrors, auxiliary fan and heated seats. The lead acid leisure batteries have a life of about 6 years which I think is reasonable and it'll run the fridge alone for about 3 days without moving. I've had one failure in that time, of a relay which I picked up on the dual voltmeter and that was replaced the same day.


Yeah 6 years is absolutely reasonable. Even if you allow £200 for the battery that's just £33 per year equivalent. Next to nothing, basically.

Mo Murphy wrote:

Hope that helps
Mo


Cheers.
Post #949644 17th Apr 2022 12:09pm
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BJH



Member Since: 14 Apr 2022
Location: West Wales
Posts: 17

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
macfrank wrote:
here's my setup http://kraxlr.de/makingof.html#electrics- a bit of wire and a big (voltage sensitive) relay. Been using it for about 200 times in 5 years and no issues, no noticeable battery fatigue, no problems.


Lovely - thanks for sharing. I love your roof tent setup as well. If I could go back this is the type I would get too. Mine is one of the more typical roof tents that fold out over the edge of the vehicle. Cheaper, but in the UK it can be a problem to simply park up somewhere and camp for the night. I think having the tent's footprint contained to the vehicle itself greatly reduces the negative attention that is drawn.

macfrank wrote:

BJH wrote:

Because I want to run a fridge for at least 24 hours and it seems like I'd need a very big lead-acid battery to accommodate that...

That's a very big fridge Very Happy or a very inefficient one. Our Engel is spec'ed at 30W (2.5A @ 12.0V) but it's running for only 30 secs every 5 minutes or so. Of course that depends on how cold you want it to be and how hot it is outside.


Yes see this is an area where I can really use input from an exerienced user of an aux system. My crude calculations went as follows:

1. Found a suitable fridge on the internet. Noted it is rated as 45W.
2. 45W * 24 = 1080Wh capacity required.
3. 1080Wh / 12V = 90Ah battery required. But factor in 50% discharge: 180Ah battery required.

But what this doesn't factor in is the fridge in practice will cycle on and off. So it won't consume 45W continuously. This is something I had not considered.

macfrank wrote:

With this usage, frigde + heater, we easily get two to three nights / 40-60 hrs and also 4 nights / 90hrs are possible when going down to 30% DoD.

Well that's plenty for me. I am primarily looking at off-grid for 24 hours. But 48 is the most I tend to do in the Land Rover.

Thanks for the info Thumbs Up
Post #949645 17th Apr 2022 12:19pm
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macfrank



Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1081

Germany 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Thumbs Up
Post #949650 17th Apr 2022 2:21pm
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2241

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey
BJH,
Another tip for your fridge is fill it the night before you go and run it on the 240v indoors overnight, then the hard work for the fridge of getting everything cold is done without using any battery power.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey
Post #949651 17th Apr 2022 2:56pm
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macfrank



Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1081

Germany 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
macfrank wrote:

BJH wrote:

Because I want to run a fridge for at least 24 hours and it seems like I'd need a very big lead-acid battery to accommodate that...

That's a very big fridge Very Happy or a very inefficient one. Our Engel is spec'ed at 30W (2.5A @ 12.0V) but it's running for only 30 secs every 5 minutes or so. Of course that depends on how cold you want it to be and how hot it is outside.

Now, after a holiday in southern France I took note of how long the Engel was actually running at various temperatures and settings:

temp. | dial | on/off minutes | duty | mean Amps (calculated)
28°C | 2 | 4:30 / 2:45 | 62% | 1.6A
27°C | 1,5 | 3:15 / 5:00 | 39% | 1.0A
18°C | 1,5 | 2:00 / 12:35 | 14% | 0.4A

So my estimate of "30 secs every 5 minutes" was probably at night, when it's usually on "1" or when camping in our own colder climate Smile

But it's also interesting to see that even when it's hot and the fridge on "2" (= results in very cold lemonade Smile), it's still not running all the time. In this example it would consume less than 40Ah in 24 hrs, which a 100Ah leisure battery should be able to provide.
Post #954983 8th Jun 2022 8:35pm
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BJH



Member Since: 14 Apr 2022
Location: West Wales
Posts: 17

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Thanks very much indeed for the information! Very useful.

28°C would be an exception around here. 18°C, is probably more typical, even on a Summer's day. So your experiment at hot temperatures with cold fridge setting is definitely a worst-case scenario, especially as you calculated it as if the high temperature would continue for the full 24 hour period, when in practice the night (even if only 5-6 hours at height of Summer) would offer a cooler period.

So it seems to me that a 48 hour period is do-able on that setup in most conditions that I am likely to encounter.

Thanks once again for taking the time to gather the data!

My Aux Battery setup is continuing, albeit slowly. Got most of the equipment now but I'm still planning out all the fuse boxes, where the wires will go, how much wire I'll need at what gauges of wire, etc. I don't have the fridge yet though, will research that last.
Post #954988 8th Jun 2022 9:18pm
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steveww



Member Since: 05 Jan 2022
Location: Uppingham
Posts: 569

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Bronze Green
An alternative approach that I use for camping is a Jackery power pack.

https://www.jackery.com/products/jackery-e...-generator

It has the battery, charging circuit, 12V, USB and mains inverter all in one neat package. When driving it's topped up via 12V from the vehicle. When camping the solar cell charges faster than fridge, phones, etc can discharge it.

The only modification I did to my Defender was to add an extra 12V output in the boot. When I'm not camping I'm not carrying around an extra battery.
Post #955031 9th Jun 2022 10:39am
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1221

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
One important note everybody usually fails to grasp - you CANNOT apply/push current into something. It is the device itself accepting charge, for constant current there is a supervisory circuit that is limiting the current allowed to flow but if the demand for that charge falls off it can't increase it.

Why is this important? It is the battery dictating how much current is being requested from the alternator. The other important thing to note is that alternators do not "increase their output current" with engine speed. When an engine accelerates the voltage output by the alternator increases but the regulator is able to bring this back down to suitable levels. An alternator has an inherent maximum design current it can output (usually way less than a battery can accept) thus its inherently current limited by design.

More modern alternators are smarter but usually for efficiency reasons rather than charge profiles (controlled via an ECU to limit charging until it is more fuel efficient to do so). Lead acid batteries are pretty damn resilient so as long as they are charged it doesn't really matter. If they get to the point of being massively discharged then that chemically alters the internal plates and you actually need a much higher voltage to "blow" off the sulphates that have formed on the plates.

Greatly simplified points but the end result is the battery (until its knackered) simply doesn't care. Lead acids are pretty bomb proof. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #955134 10th Jun 2022 4:43pm
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