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custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20376

Does sound like actuator sticking on overboost, I had it with mine a few months ago.
It’ll act as if there is no power at all. You could go along with your foot flat to the floorboards in 3rd gear and you’ll have to drop back on an incline.

I took the circlip off the top actuator arm pivot. (Careful not to lose it).
Then could actuate the arm by hand disconnected from the electronic actuator.
A bit of 3 in 1 oil on moving parts and then put back together.

No issue after. Yes, it can do it cold too for a short while.

I wonder if the electric actuators get weaker with age, not to mention getting sticky vanes and pivots.

I did consider replacing the EA on mine, but as it worked perfectly once lubed input it down to that.
Sometimes where you wash them water gets all over that area that won’t help…

One of those things that I put a bit of oil on regular now just like prop shaft greasing. Ideal job to do all at the same time. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

25th May 2022 9:06pm

WilkoW

Member Since: 09 Jun 2013
Location: Northants
Posts: 84

1998 Defender 90 V8 Petrol 50th Auto Atlantis Blue

Thanks Steve. I’ll try this tomorrow as perhaps the actuator has been affected by the new engine installed.

25th May 2022 9:17pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20376

Worth a shot anyway, it’s only the upper pivot circlip you need to take off.
As I said be careful not to lose it which is easily done. Lube it and free it up by hand and operate it.

Beyond that, just regular lube should do and not have to take the circlip off.

Bear in mind it gets really hot, that’s why I just use a little 3 in 1 oil on a dripper.
My concern with grease is that A it’d need to be super high temp, but more importantly when that would dry out it’d likely get even more sticky and far worse and attract a lot of detritus and cause more wear.

IIRC down towards the ground is full boost and up is the off boost. Mine was a bit sticky near the bottom hence why I had overboost then limp mode triggered by it.
Bit of lube and was fine after.

Good luck

$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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25th May 2022 10:58pm

Minch90

Member Since: 15 Sep 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 236

Planning on a bit of propshaft greasing this weekend, will now include a bit of turbo actuator oiling too! Thanks guys 2.4TDCI 90 - everyday brilliance
S3 V8 Lightweight - in the garage being ignored #newchassistime
S3 lightweight - 2nd car 24V fire risk with a full tilt and the windscreen down
S1 80" - first car fun - 75mph in neutral downhill once #wobblesallround

26th May 2022 5:39am

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8030

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

Does sound like actuator.

My problem one is now running fixed vane as short term fix Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

26th May 2022 4:03pm

WilkoW

Member Since: 09 Jun 2013
Location: Northants
Posts: 84

Weirdly, it’s still making the whooshing sound (under WOT) and sometimes it loses power (turbo stops spooling) which resolves itself when the ignition is cycled so I’m wondering if it’s the complete actuator that’s knackered or if this could be an electronic issue?

I’ve checked all the pipes and hoses which are all fine.

Any ideas before I take it to a garage?

3rd Jun 2022 7:20pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20376

Well you can try a new actuator, but if you go to a garage they’ll likely suggest a new turbo as a complete unit.
The actuators have part number stamped on them, it’s not unknown for actuators to get worn with mileage or filled up with dust and rubbish.

If you do try a new actuator / recon then find it doesn’t work out and you do need a new turbo and compete assembly including actuator then you can take off your new actuator put the old one back on and sell it again.

Personally I would go for a new / new recon actuator that shares the identical part number and see how that goes.
With mine I had an overboost DTC show up, which told me that it was turbo related and the EA and linakage added to the symptoms when driving.
If you get over or under boost and limp mode when you are driving it will run but you have perhaps 20% of normal power.
In other words you can do 30mph with your foot flat on the floor and you won’t be going anywhere quick and you’ll have a 0 to 50mph barely in about 2 minutes.

$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

3rd Jun 2022 9:11pm

WilkoW

Member Since: 09 Jun 2013
Location: Northants
Posts: 84

Daft question probably, but should the actuator arm/rod move up and down freely with the engine off, or should it move by hand?

It won’t budge at present…

5th Jun 2022 7:25pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17386

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

The actuator cannot be moved be hand. If you disconnect the actuator rod from the actuator then the rod should move extremely freely (it feels as though it isn't doing anything, it is so free).

With the engine switched off the actuator should be in mid-position.

5th Jun 2022 9:58pm

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