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Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3481 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Front door diagram, pre tdci:
https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...mbly_52667 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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90GTR Member Since: 05 May 2020 Location: London Posts: 201 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Just a quick update and follow up for anyone who may need it...
Ordered genuine LR waist seals as per Dinnu's message, the inner and outer seals both make a very big difference (the old seals were no longer up to task, despite looking ok on the face of them..). The glass now sits to the seal very well and the soft felt material does well to cushion the glass noise. Both doors fitted with Dynamat (I had a sheet spare the size of a 90 bed and plenty left over), worthwhile for the small cost. The genuine foam water shedders (as mentioned supersede the older type) needed slight adjustment for the old TD5 doors, due to some interference with handles. I suspect the old plastic sheeting was soft and flexible enough to avoid this??? Door gives a solid thud when shutting, but occasionally with a lot more than adequate force, the glass appears to still flex. I suspect its the other door seals around the frame that need changing). Although think for now it 100% improvement and ok as I've lost the awful sound from before). So thank you again for the forum /duckworth LR for the help! |
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Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3481 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() In my opinion Defender doors are not that rigid, remember they are 80s design, made to fit in a post war door opening. And even then, they were not as good as other normal cars of that era, let alone modern cars. As to whether replace the channels around the glass, usually they fail at the bottom first, and gives you a rattle when the window is down. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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