 | Home > V8 > GEMS Rover v8 with a manual transmission |
 
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| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10381  
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Another 0.3????
I reckon more  |
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24th Jun 2020 2:53pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727  
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Isn't +0.3mpg about +50%?
 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW |
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24th Jun 2020 3:07pm |
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| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10381
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I reckon I get single figures...I just don't care though. I know certain points in the country by how much to re-fuel there..
I know Cheltenham is £45 away and Kielder Forest is £95 away ! Porthmadog is a tank and a half.... I used to fill the 110 td5 up and get there on less than a quarter!! |
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24th Jun 2020 3:36pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727
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Ouch I hope I do a bit better than that, I'd like to see 15mpg on a run when driven steadily. Time will tell... 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW |
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24th Jun 2020 4:00pm |
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| CarMan Member Since: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 1861
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I think 15 is entirely realistic, but I've been out with Steve driving - enough said
Rob
1993 200tdi 90 hard-top 1998 300tdi 90 soft-top 2016 2.2 XS 90 hard-top (sold) |
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24th Jun 2020 4:08pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727
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Ah good. I was trying to calculate a 110 td5 using 1/4 tank must be around 100 miles, so 1.5 tanks on a 90 in 100 miles is... Not a lot
 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW |
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24th Jun 2020 4:17pm |
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| Shroppy Member Since: 25 Feb 2016 Location: Shropshire Posts: 866 
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I'm told mid twenties is readily achieved in a P38 running Bosch injectors and an appropriate tune. GEMS let's you run it about 15% leaner than the earlier systems (aided by the up-rated injectors) so I'm hoping for low twenties from the 130 if driven sensibly.
A friend once had a 3.5 V8 2 door classic challenge truck with a sprintex supercharger, that got 8 mpg. 1985 127 V8 Build Thread
Series 2 109" Series 1 80" |
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25th Jun 2020 7:05am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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My old Stage 1 V8 (3.5, de-restricted carbs) would easily be down to single figures on a cold morning
Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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25th Jun 2020 7:15am |
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| Rednaxela Member Since: 23 Sep 2019 Location: UK Posts: 41
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How much ground have you made Hufflepuff?
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24th Jun 2021 10:10pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727
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I think that says it all. I look at these other threads where people go: "Look, I bought, deconstructed, rebuilt, put a new engine in, test drove, painted, deconstructed, rebuild with another engine, all in two weeks!" and then I go into the garage, where it looks pretty much the same as it did 6 months ago and carry on toiling away. I have loads of questions to ask at the moment on cooling specifically, as I'm baffled by the cooling system on this model, but I'll make a new thread for that. Thanks for the prompting Rednaxela, its the kick I need. As for the flywheel issue I had in this thread - its hopefully sorted now. Clutch fitted from LOF (what a refreshingly nice chap he was to deal with!) and mated up to the engine. That is now all mounted in the chassis, which itself was a saga (not sure my Richards Chassis engine mounts are bob on - one feels like its about 10mm too far forward on one side, but it fit with 'persuasion'. Fuel tank is in (another saga), so the next jobs are: (a) Plumb in the fuel lines (b) Plumb in the brake lines (c) Sort the cooling system (d) Plug and Play the electronics, and fire her up. I'll see if I can dig some snaps out over the weekend. 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW |
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25th Jun 2021 2:58pm |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
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Cool, congrats. Not everyone managed it in 2 weeks. I worked out today that mine took 6.5 years lol.
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25th Jun 2021 5:57pm |
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| Romadog Member Since: 07 Jul 2011 Location: Powys Posts: 1749 |
Wow this thread has moved quickly....had my head in some other stuff so missed it, Well done on sorting your clutch issue.......should have just got an auto been done with it..
 
Interested to know your cooling issues???? Have you been listening to the wrong people?? |
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25th Jun 2021 8:47pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727
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To finish off a thread I started a long long time ago...
A second hand GEMS flywheel turned up in the post from Roland. I suspect it had been stored outdoors for a while based on the amount of surface rust on it.  Click image to enlarge but it has the all important reluctor in the recessed grove on the back: Click image to enlarge Time for a bath, I can't be having something this dirty on my pride and joy... Click image to enlarge The part number of the reluctor ring then became visible: Click image to enlarge Unfortunately the bathtub had little effect on the front surface, so it was out with Halford's finest rust converter. Click image to enlarge After an overnight soak, this did a little better. Click image to enlarge It still needed a dose of of wet-n-dry sandpapering to prepare the surface to my liking. Time to remove the flex plate and check the fitment: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Looking at their side profile reveals differences in where the reluctor ring sits relative to the sensor: Click image to enlarge This is where I got a bit confused (small brain see). Roland had said I would have to 'file the sensor down', and I couldn't understand how you could file a plastic sensor down... 
Click image to enlarge but its clear that the auto-sensor does not reach the groove for the manual flywheel. How could filing the sensor down possible make it reach further out into the flywheel? Click image to enlarge My motto is quickly becoming "when in doubt, throw money at the problem", so a manual flywheel sensor was ordered. Then it became somewhat obvious what Roland has been saying about filing it down - the housing it sits in! Manual bracket on the left, auto on the right: Click image to enlarge At least I now had a spare sensor for the backup parts bin. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Next problem - how to lock the flywheel in place to do the bolts up the appropriate torque? I had ordered a Td5 lock bracket from LOF clutches, reasoning that if a R380 fits a Td5, a Td5 lock bracket should work on my Rover v8? Well life it full of failure - it doesn't fit properly, although it was good enough for a bodge it job. Click image to enlarge Then to fit the spigot bearing, you don't want to forget that. Click image to enlarge Now the next head scratcher, the clutch. Keep in mind that this is the first time I've fitted one, having always left the technicalities of this job to my Father or the garage in the past. But how hard can it be?..... Click image to enlarge At least the clutch fits the splines of the R380, a solid start out the gate. Click image to enlarge Now which clutch alignment tool to use? Father's home made bad boy (left), Frost's finest 'generic' tool (right), or the proper tool for the job (centre)? Click image to enlarge The Frost tool was too complicated for this engineer, and the proper tool seemed quite loose in the spigot bearing, so we went with the wooden option with the tapered end. Click image to enlarge Pretty well aligned to my eye, but I'm sure the mating task before me would indicate otherwise. Click image to enlarge But first, clutch fork shinanigans. Thankfully the v8 uses a meaty cast clutch fork, so there were no concerns about the pin pushing through it. LOF provide all the consumable parts to bring it back to spec. Click image to enlarge ... but the slave cylinder push rod length is a bit of a guess, as there at least three different sizes. After a bit of Googling, the one around 99mm seems to be most suggested to fit, so that's what we've gone with. I guess I won't find out if this was right until a lot further down the road, but it felt about right when fitting the slave cylinder. Click image to enlarge So, assemble the bits... Click image to enlarge I hope you are paying attention and see the glaring mistake here... Click image to enlarge If you didn't, that's ok I didn't either. Many a minute was spent trying to understand why I couldn't fit the pivot point on it. Click image to enlarge Ah ha... the cup has to go the other way around
Click image to enlarge That's better! Click image to enlarge Right.. one engine, one gearbox. Time to let the nature take its course, and mate them. Click image to enlarge Except its really quite heavy. Hoist to the rescue... Click image to enlarge Huff and puff, wiggle wiggle... Click image to enlarge and voila monsier! Click image to enlarge One quick check to see if the Health and Safety ministry are paying attention (nope), raise it all flip it round in the limited space and slot in. Click image to enlarge Progress 
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Small casualty of the right hand knock sensor when fitting 
Click image to enlarge Next up the transfer box Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge only to then find it really really tight fitting the transfer boxes mount onto the chassis mounting. Click image to enlarge I did get it in eventually, but it feels far tighter than it should be. Its like one of the Chassis mounts is about 10mm off. 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW Last edited by Hufflepuff on 26th Jun 2021 8:57pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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26th Jun 2021 8:47pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727
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I'll get back to you on the cooling issue I have, run out of steam for today. I'm sure I'm just being dumb and you will point out the error of my ways in a heartbeat... 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW |
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26th Jun 2021 8:49pm |
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