 | Home > Technical > Sumo bars & drop arm conversion. |
 
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| Roy5695 Member Since: 15 Feb 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 1123   
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Recently did this on mine. They are brilliant. I’d start soaking the drop arm securing nut in penetrating fluid.
You’ll also need a good puller to get it off too. I have the laser one I used to do mine. PM me if you’re interested in it 👍 2011 Defender DCPU 2.2 - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic30623.html Instagram - @r22oyp Roy |
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23rd Feb 2019 5:14pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2301  
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Get the disc cutter out
 Click image to enlarge > 110 XS Double Cab |
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23rd Feb 2019 5:26pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2651 
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Sumo bars are a good upgrade.
Not sure I see the point of the drop arm conversion though for a normal vehicle. Maybe for a competition car which is wearing them out quickly. |
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23rd Feb 2019 5:38pm |
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| Timcat Member Since: 20 Jul 2016 Location: Rugby at the moment Posts: 1025 
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I know what your saying but for £50 pounds extra it covers everything & I’ve been told the replacement parts should it go in the future aren’t up to the original ones.
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23rd Feb 2019 6:09pm |
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| grafty99 Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: North Devon Posts: 4785 
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I did the disco drop arm conversion when upgrading to sumobars.
Far, far easier to change the ball joint. Even if I only have to change it once it'll be worth the extra. I hate the Swan neck ball joints  2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton |
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23rd Feb 2019 6:39pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2651
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No issues with genuine ball joints to my knowledge, though generally poor parts quality is an issue for everything eventually.
Changing the drop-arm ball joint is an easy 20-min job with the correct tool. And no need to re-adjust the drag link, or have an adaptor to mount the steering damper. Swings and roundabouts really. |
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23rd Feb 2019 7:18pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8043  
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i run the disco drop arm too with a TRE, its simpler to work on and easier to change a TRE than the std def drop arm ball joint in my experience. typically when the lip gets damaged on the std ball joint!
the only hard bit is getting the drop arm off the steering box. you can measure the track rod length TRE centre to centre to give you a good starting point when fitting the new one. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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23rd Feb 2019 7:24pm |
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| sako243 Member Since: 08 Jul 2014 Location: Wales Posts: 1219 
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The correct toll for removing the drop arm is a work of art. Popped around to a friend who had one and simply tighten it up on the joint and then whack with a hammer and it comes flying off.
Recently converted mine to a Gwyn Lewis drop arm (300Tdi 110) and it transformed the vehicle but that was largely because the other arm was loose. I got fed up of swapping ball joints, kept destroying gaiters off road and the lips would wear out meaning they kept popping off then. Unfortunately only been on a couple of months and snapped two cranks so its off the road again so can't comment beyond that. Ed 82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6 95 Defender 110 300Tdi |
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23rd Feb 2019 8:23pm |
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| Roy5695 Member Since: 15 Feb 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 1123
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Video of the tool doing the job. Worked first time.
2011 Defender DCPU 2.2 - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic30623.html Instagram - @r22oyp Roy |
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24th Feb 2019 6:40pm |
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